couplers

[Len]

While there's no doubt a bit of selective-compression goes on with the Athearn 72ft models, they aren't totally out in left field either.

A number of roads, the RF&P comes immediately to mind, actually did run 72ft cars because of the number of tight curves on their lines. The New Haven 80-seat "American Flyer" light weight coaches built in the mid-1930s were in the 70 - 75ft range in length also.

So I would suggest not gettng too hung up on the "real passenger cars are 85ft long" mantra.

Len

[Pacific Northern]

Some interesting trivia from 1942

Coach sizes ranged from 60' to 88'

Average size coach 72'

http://www.railwaystation.com/1942/04.html

[WGL]

  Pacific Northern,
  I did find that trivia interesting.
  Don't anybody get a hernia laughing, but while I wait to get McHenry52 couplers to replace the horn & hook ones on my IHC passenger cars, I got some fine, very flexible wire & wired the couplers together, except the Athearn passenger car, which I coupled to my F7A.  This is working on my layout with 22"r curves.
  The Kadee-Compatible E-Z Mate knuckle coupler on the back of my Spectrum EMD SD-45 was not holding onto the knuckle coupler on the car, so I tried to adjust it.  The tiny spring sprung out.  I lost it for about 15 minutes.  I had a devil of a time getting it back to about how it was before & not closing.  I think I'd rather replace a coupler than struggle with those tiny springs.  Too bad Bachmann didn't include a spare coupler.    My Walthers train set includes 2 spare couplers.  I guess I'll have to get some spare knuckle couplers.

[Yampa Bob]

(Alien spaceship approaching earth) "Mxlljiep dkibrin eisjhk bleup"  Translation: "What are all those little squiggly things in orbit?"

[Woody Elmore]

to WGL- Kadee sells coupler springs by the dozen (in nice little packets) and they also have a really great spring tool that makes replacing them easier.

Back in "the good old days" is was not uncommon for people to put a little tiny dab of rubber cement on the end of the Kadee knuckle spring when installing one; it often helped prevent them from flying away.

You have to decide on one brand of coupler and stay with them. As for passenger trains I have seen them coupled with dummy couplers and drawbars. Wiring also works.

[RAM]

One thing that I do when replacing the springs is to run a tread in the spring so if it tries to fly it
can't take off.  Once the spring is in place just pull the tread out. Slowly

[Woody Elmore]

Really? I thought the reason for banning lead shot is that it polluted the environment.  It gets into the water supply.

[SteamGene]

Woody,
I believe you are correct.  The duck is going to die of many other things prior to dying of lead poisioning.  I'm not sure how many wounded ducks get to fly away. 
Gene

[Jhanecker2]

The reason leadshot is no longer allowed for hunting migratory birds ( ducks, geese ,etc. ) is to keep them from ingesting lead from the environment.   Birds use small stones , shot , etc. in their crop to grind food. John II.

[WGL]

  Len, I glad to learn that 72' passenger cars can still be valid for the 1940s or '50s.
Thanks for the info about the spring tool & leashing those ornery springs with thread.  It is difficult to see whether or not I have the spring exactly in place to make the coupler close.
  I don't know what size number my couplers are, so I'm not sure which size number to get.

[Woody Elmore]

The Kadee knuckle springs are all the same for the HO coupler.  I forgot to mention that I know people who have used an Xacto #11 blade to put springs into Kadees.

I will be the first to admit that replacing the springs is a tedious pain in the neck.

[Rangerover]

Really? I thought the reason for banning lead shot is that it polluted the environment.  It gets into the water supply.

Lead shot in migratory birds! I really think the lead shot is ingested by waterfoul as another poster stated. If you make giblet gravey from the foul or eat the gizzard such as some do I suppose there is a risk you could swallow lead shot.  As far as poluting the envirionment, lead does not migrate. I went to a program invloving lead envirionmental cleanup, it was part of the program involving rifle ranges. The biggest concerns were the old lead paint and lead contain soldered copper plumbing joints. Until about the early 60's all paint contained lead and toddlers would chew on it. Most new plumbing these days are plastic.

I have worked with lead for most of my life from hand casting lead bullerts for competitve shooting since my teens to working in the field of maufactuing explosives, which are all lead base powders, such as lead styyphnate, red lead boron, lead azide, 50/50 lead salt. These powders for the explosive industry are still maufactured from lead base. Though working with lead we had a medical staff on the plant and it was policy that blood tests for lead every 6 months. It does expel from the body through excretion. I have never been found to be above my base line. I'm 64 and still cast bullets from lead. I have never had a problem with lead poisoning. I follow RULES using lead. I never melt lead in enclosed areas. I never stand over the pot with my face over the molten material and always wear leather welders gloves. Wash my hands before eating anything even a piece of chewing gum. I have always kept it away from my children and grandchildren.

I found that using the old lead shower basin's or the lead bins from torn out plumbing works great. It's about 1/16 inch thick and cuts easily with a pair of tin snips and that is what I weigh my cars with.

[Rangerover]

Geez..I forgot the topic. I am switching to kaydee a little at a time. Right now I have 24" & 22" radius curves and use McHenry talgo couplers on the long passenger cars, it just makes it easier to go around the tight curves. I believe kaydee is the only way to go in most cases!

[Running Bear]

Any time I get a new loco or some new rolling stock I change out the couplers with Kadee's. I keep a few McHenry couplers around in case I need a temporary replacement.

[WGL]

 I would like to replace a Kadee compatible E-Z Mate coupler on my Spectrum EMD SD-45, but I don't know what the size number is.
  HO Scale Model Railroading suggests using a hobby knife stuck between coils to insert the coupler spring.  I can't see if I have it in correctly; I can see that the coupler is not closing properly with the spring in it.