isolating track

[clayton4115]

hi all

I am trying to run two train on a DC layout however I want to keep one train in the siding while i run the other around the loop, i noticed by using the EZ track turnout 44862 even though the points are set to the mainline the train in the siding also moves, do i have to isolate the loop line with a isolate plastic joiner on the point (blade) heading into the siding? As with this electrofrogs even though the path is set to the main line the loco on the siding is also operating.

can i use something like this for N gauge to isolate the siding?

http://www.amazon.com/Bachmann-Trains-Snap-Fit-Terminal-Insulated/dp/B000BKT5MS

[clayton4115]

why does this site say

"This switch is power routing, which means a locomotive will only operate on the track set by the switch blades. " when it totally is not true?

http://www.hobbylinc.com/bachmann-remote-switch-rh-n:s-e-z-n-scale-nickel-silver-model-train-track-44862

[gatrhumpy]

Install an in-line switch between one of the rail joiners between the siding the the switch. When turned on, it will power the siding, when turned off, it will leave it off.

[clayton4115]

thanks but what is an in line switch can you show me some url's i can go do some homework on.

[brokemoto]

This is coming from someone who does use the E-Z TRAK on his pike, in addition to other brands.

One of the flaws of the E-Z TRAK is that it is EXTREMELY difficult to get the metal rail joiner off the end of the track without damaging the track.  If you do succeed in getting the  metal rail joiner off the thing, the construction of the track sections is such that it is not accommodating to the plastic rail joiners currently on the market.  The result is that you get a poor joint if you try to use any of the plastic joiners that currently are on the market.

There are two solutions of which I am aware.  I have not tried the first, but I do use the second.

1.  File or Dremel a gap (or gaps) in the middle of one of the track sections, fill it with epoxy, sand and file to contour.

2.  The E-Z TRAK is compatible both with metal rail joiners currently on the market and sectional track without roadbed as well as the Code Eighty flex track that is out there.   What I have done when I needed a gap is  to put a small section of sectional or a cut-to-fit piece of flex on each end of the E-Z TRAK section and added metal rail joiners where needed to join the flex/sectional to the E-Z TRAK.  I then put the gap between the two sections of flex/sectional as those pieces will accommodate the plastic rail joiners.   You will need some cork roadbed for the pieces of sectional/flex and you will need to put something thin under the cork to get the whole business to the same level as the E-Z TRAK.   Atlas does sell a package under its SNAP-TRAK line that contains small straight sections.   The package comes with metal rail joiners.   You can purchase from Atlas the palstic rail joiners to fit the SNAP-TRAK sections.  The package of the plastic rail joiners is not expensive.


For the purposes that you describe, it seems that all that you need do is break the contact on one rail.  The easiest way to do this might be #1.  You can add a terminal section in the gapped off part, add the wires, but cut the one to the gapped rail, put a switch between it and the wire that goes to the power supply.   When you want to leave the train parked on the siding, turn the switch to OFF.  When you want to run the train on the siding, turn the switch to ON.


It shall remain one of the minor mysteries of this hobby why B-mann sells neither a section with plastic rail joiners or a gapped track section in its E-Z TRAK line.   Kato does have easily removable rail joiners on its UNITRAK line.  You can pull off the live rail joiners with little difficulty and replace them with plastic, neutral rail joiners.   Kato's plastic rail  joiners are not expensive, either, but the work only with UNITRAK.  They will not work with any track sold by Bachmann, Atlas, ME, PECO or any of the others.

[clayton4115]

thanks so much for your response, you are right about extremely difficult to remove the rail joiner, and spot on, while trying to take out the metal rail joiner i ripped the rail from the turnout as well! 

Anyway lesson learnt, this seems so complicated for such a simple task, I do not even want to run two trains at one time, just one train at a time while the other is waiting in the siding, anyway thanks for your help will probably just run one train around and physically remove the other loco that is in the siding as I am not good with my hands in a practical sense.