Bachmann 2013 F7 A/B Unit no power on A unit

[James in FL]

I agree with Spook.

If it doesn't run under DCC, it's not surprising that it doesn't run under DC either. I think it's still worth trying to do a decoder reset, but given than someone has modified it with custom lighting it's entirely possible that the decoder is fried.

.

This is where it's at...

The best way to learn to fix a loco is to tear it apart and put it back together .

This is the way we all have learned.

You have to break eggs to make mayonnaise.
It's all part of modeling.

I dunno. I do know I am really close to completely disassembling this thing though, and taking a look.

Suggest this^

Do you have access to a multi-meter?

[in2tech]

Yes I have access to a multimeter. Since I got such a good deal I am going to open it up myself and take a look at least.

I tried one time to remove the decoder board (well at least detach it cause it hard wired right), and I was scared to pull on this tabs that keep it in place I can just remove the screws right and pull the halves apart and looking at Spooks website it appears that what was done in the photo of this model. Main thing is I DO NOT want to screw up the decoder board.

Thanks....wish me luck. Good thing I got a really great deal on this locomotive, but I still wish it just worked. Like you said I have to learn, and I would rather learn on a great price locomotive.

Thanks everyone. Hope I am happy next time I post...do not screw this up...do not screw this up...talking to self!

[in2tech]

If anyone is interested here is a Bachmann F7-A Unit taken apart. Can I check the motor some how? I looked very closely and don't see and burn mark's or any wires loose. Wire's are connected to the motor from the decoder board, and the decoder has no visible burn area's and look fine. Not saying it is, it just look's fine.

http://screencast.com/t/04H1CKRDQLP5

After I find out how to check the motor without damaging the decoder, I'll put it back together and pray.

Thinking about ordering 2 more brand new Bachmann F7- A Unit's as than I would have all the same locomotives to start out with, and since I already know how to take this one apart now, and they would all take the exact same part's.

Originally was going to get a F7-A Unit, or 2 GE 44 Ton diesel's or a Diesel GE 70 Ton DCC Equipped Bethlehem Steel, and a Bachmann S4 Switcher ATSF Zebra Strip's, love the Zebra strip's on the S4.

But I figure since I am new to DCC and Bachmann that maybe I should get the same locomotive's to learn on, and would be able to switch parts down the road.

Not sure yet, but I am getting something new for sure...I think

BTW, what should I check with the ohm meter?

[spookshow]

Seems like the safest thing to try would be to disconnect the motor wires from the decoder board and then apply DC current to them directly. If the motor works, then it could be a fried decoder (although I'd still recommend doing a decoder reset to see if that doesn't fix things).

Cheers,
-Mark

[in2tech]

Seems like the safest thing to try would be to disconnect the motor wires from the decoder board and then apply DC current to them directly. If the motor works, then it could be a fried decoder (although I'd still recommend doing a decoder reset to see if that doesn't fix things).

Cheers,
-Mark

Thanks spookshow for your site I lookedat while taking it apart, and your help. Going to the local model railroad club tomorrow and hoping they can reset the CV8...and if so hopefully that will fix it. And maybe just maybe they have a solder gun to remove the wires and test the motor...hopefully. If it is the decoder board I'll just buy a new one and use this one for parts I'll post after I go there and keep everyone up to date.

[Mike C]

 Pretty sure if the decoder is blown I could install a new one . I have a few old decoders that I know work , it would be different than the stock one though .

[mrmtox]

This may not be helpful, but a question: As described on page 3 of the instructions, do the lights on the controller flash slowly, then rapidly as described, when you are trying to reassign the address? A second suggestion that worked for me when I had a similar problem: At the bottom of page 3 follow the instructions in the last paragraph. Then go back to the top of page 3 and follow the instructions to reassign an address.

[in2tech]

After all that time a great member, Mike C., of this board and others, allowed me to ship it to him, and test it out. After all that, it wasn't even the decoder, (thank goodness it wasn't blown), but the motor. And he replaced it for me and sent it back to me.

Thanks Mike C., I really appreciate it.

Now in that order of parts, along with the motor, were 2 brand new shell's for the F7-A Unit's. A Norfolk Southern and a Southern Pacific, (really wanted 2 NS's but you can only order 1 of each shell from Bachmann parts. Seem's strange I don't know why). Now the ladders (I am almost sure) are not letting the trucks turn enough to make it around my 11" radius curve and switches. I don't have room for more radius and actually will be adding an inner loop of 9 3/4" to my tiny 2'x4' layout.

Any ideas on the making the shell's work? They look exactly like the ones that come on a new f7-A locomotive. BTW, they work perfect on the layout without the new shell's on.

Have to say though, even with all the trouble I have had, running 2 locomotives on the same layout without blocks and stuff, is amazing. being able to control the speed's and direction of each independently is awesome. Some near crashes too

Thanks again Mike C.!