Bachmann 2013 F7 A/B Unit no power on A unit

[in2tech]

Purchased these for a great price, received them and running with the Bachmann E-Z Command Control System, everything working fine for the first couple hours, until I try to change the decoder code from default 3 to another number 1. Now only the lights work, button F10 to turn the lights on and F1 for regular or dim the headlight on the locomotive. No power at all, nothing, nada, won't move. Position 1 would turn the light off and on and dim, but no power what so ever. So after reading around here, reset to number 3, and still only the lights work, no power.

On my model railroad forum they say to do a factory reset for a certain CV #8, (new stuff to me), and state that the E-Z DCC Command System, will not let you set to factory default. What could have happened. Can trying to change a decoder number position stop the locomotive from receiving power to it?

Any hep appreciated,

[gatrhumpy]

Didn't you have a problem similar to this on another locomotive?

It may have lost its address. You might have to look at the documentation that came with the engine to see how to reset it using the EZ Command system.

[in2tech]

Didn't you have a problem similar to this on another locomotive?

It may have lost its address. You might have to look at the documentation that came with the engine to see how to reset it using the EZ Command system.

No sir I did not as this is my very first DCC locomotive ever, and it is a Bachmann as well as is the E-Z Command Controller, and I just signed up for the forums, so brand new! If you are on another model railroading forum, than yes, you may have seen this same discussion. Checking here to see if anyone has any other ideas since it is a Bachmann locomotive.

Strange that the locomotive all of a sudden has no power. Can the decoder do this, allow the lights to work but no power? Since I am new to DCC, know nothing about this stuff.

Everything was working fine when I first got it on the default "3" position. Once I tried to change that to another number on the E-Z Command System, it no longer has power just lights.

[spookshow]

It's possible that one or more of the other decoder CV's got accidentally (unintentionally) changed when you changed the locomotive address in CV1. I don't know why this happens, but it's something that does happen from time to time. So, the first thing I would try is resetting the decoder back to its factory default settings. You do this by writing a value of "8" to CV8.

I'm not familiar with the E-Z Command system, so I don't know how one goes about making changes to specific CV's. Hopefully it's something that's covered in the instructions.

Good luck!
-Mark

[gatrhumpy]

So using the EZ Command controller, can you turn the lights on and off? The four bendy contacts that touch each frame half under the DCC decoder may have gotten bent somehow. Take off the shell and see if they're still touching.

[in2tech]

When the shell is off shouldn't the headlight work when I have it on the track, and choose the correct Function button like I do when the shell is on? Also, was there ever a Burlington Northern shell available? The jewel case says "Great Northern" green & orange. The F7 Bachmann parts site does not show a Burlington Northern shell (unless it has been removed). If not I think I am figuring some things out here. Unless there was a B&N, and the shell does have to be on for the headlights to work!

http://www.spookshow.net/loco/bachf7.html

"Current flows from the trucks to the chassis by way of sticky-uppy contacts on the truck wipers. Current flows from the chassis to the decoder by way of flexible contacts on the bottom of the PC board (the PC board is held in place by plastic clips sandwiched between the chassis halves)."

[spookshow]

As long as the contacts on the underside of the PC board are touching the chassis properly, everything should work (lights, motor) regardless of whether or not the shell is on.

Sorry, I'm not following you the re "Burlington Northern" part of your question. In any case, I don't think Bachmann has ever done BN F7's.

Cheers,
-Mark

[in2tech]

As long as the contacts on the underside of the PC board are touching the chassis properly, everything should work (lights, motor) regardless of whether or not the shell is on.

Sorry, I'm not following you the re "Burlington Northern" part of your question. In any case, I don't think Bachmann has ever done BN F7's.

Cheers,
-Mark

Yeah I thought that they had not made a Burlington Northern. Meaning some one had a Burlington Northern shell, and stuck it on there. Which normally I don't think would be a problem, but they did some modifications. After looking closer yesterday when I had the shell off, and closer at the unit, it appears that it was originally a Great Northern, and there is also a small round bulb on the top of the shell (not sure what that light is called), and more than that I swear that there is solder or something in the nose of the shell and looks like some gold contact wire. I'll try to take a photo.

But my point being, it appears to have been modified from the original locomotive. And if indeed that is solder for some strange reason, it could be causing or have caused a short or something.

I'll have to try to take some close up photo's later and post here. And than I am thinking about taking it completely apart following your instructions on your site, or follow the pictures

[Mike C]

If you didn't see any smoke coming out of the shell , the decoder is probably OK . Have you found someone at the club that can reset the decoder for you ? That's where I'd start .

[in2tech]

No not anyone at the club yet. No sure that is going to work out either. The last few times I was able to change the decoder number, say from 2 to 4, with the E-Z Command System. Is that the same as a decoder reset CV8? I am just about over it and thinking about putting it away and going back to DC until further notice. I mean I did get it at a really, really good price, but I am just disappointed that it has not worked since I changed the decoder from default 3 to another number except for light's. This has been a royal pain.

Thanks everyone.

[Mike C]

No , setting CV 8 is totally different . If some setting somehow got messed up , setting CV 8 to 8 will restore the decoder back to origional settings .  If you want to stick with DCC I would recommend getting a different DCC controller that will let you do more than change address #'s . The Bachmann starter set-up is fine for just running a couple trains , but something like a NCE PowerCab would be a good choice for EZ operation and EZ ability to change CV"s .

DCC can be confusing at the beginning . You could spend hours just reading through different beginner web sites .

[in2tech]

Tried it on the DC layout as it is both DCC/DC locomotive and still does not work. Is it fried or still maybe the decoder CV8 needs to be reset?

[spookshow]

If it doesn't run under DCC, it's not surprising that it doesn't run under DC either. I think it's still worth trying to do a decoder reset, but given than someone has modified it with custom lighting it's entirely possible that the decoder is fried.

Cheers,
-Mark

[in2tech]

Alright, have some more info. I can change the locomotive position number on the E Z DCC Command System. I changed it from 4 to 5. How do I know this works? Because only the lights work, when I changed from 4 to 5, I could only turn the lights on with F10, and dim with F1, only on position 5 when I changed it. Before I could only control the lights on position 4.

Also, some bad photo's of the light added on the shell. It didn't work when I first got the loco, so it might be a dummy light. Not sure. Inside of shell picture is horrible, so not posting it.

So this tells me at least the decoder board is not fried right? Because I can change the position number for the loco. It DOES NOT do that jerking motion it is suppose to do when you change the position number. Loose wire, bad motor, I dunno. I do know I am really close to completely disassembling this thing though, and taking a look.

http://screencast.com/t/ylWVV1dbgeB5
http://screencast.com/t/2GH5IBixU

Still sound like a CV8 reset to everyone?

[Mike C]

Could be the contacts between the decoder and the motor .  The best way to learn to fix a loco is to tear it apart and put it back together . As long as you don't break anything you'll be fine .  Most of these locos aren't too hard to take apart / put back together .