uncoupling

[jlc41]

I am trying to understand  uncouplers and how they work. Are they electrical and or magnetic. Thanks

[AGSB]

http://www.kadee.com/animation/c1.htm

[jlc41]

AGSB, thanks for the link. Know I understand how they work.

[jbrock27]

It is important for the metal trip pin on the coupler to be low enough to be impacted by the Kadee magnet's field but not so low that it catches on the RR ties.  Kadee Trip Pin pliers are great for making adjustments to trip pins.

[AGSB]

That's the theory of how to remote uncouple. I don't use this method. I personally use the uncoupler tool from Rix. Some people use wooden Bar-B-Que skewers, a method I could never master. Others don't like the look of the Kadee magnets on their layout and use supermagnets buried between the ties. Electro magnets, that can be concealed under the track are also available.

[ebtnut]

One minor point on Jbrock's reply.  You don't want the pin so low that it catches on the railhead, not the ties.  Kadee makes a coupler height gauge that sets both the correct height for the coupler and the spacing between the trip pin and the track.

[jbrock27]

Never would have thought the trip pins would potentially catch rail-heads, since they should be in the center of car, far enough away from either rail.  Never had it happen.
I'm a big advocate of the Kadee Coupler Height Gauge.  I prefer the #206 bc it is plastic, therefore insulated.

[jbrock27]

I personally use the uncoupler tool from Rix.

I have two and sometimes they work well and sometimes they don't.  Also have tried the bambo skewer per Ray's suggestion; that does not quite work consistently for me either.

[AGSB]

Never would have thought the trip pins would potentially catch rail-heads,

How about going through switches or crossing sceniced roadways or those rerailer track sections?

[jbrock27]

No question. Like I had said, never had that happen.
The bottom line remains, not too low but low enough to get caught in the magnets pull .