Power Packs and Speed Controller For Large Scale Trains

[Plow_Bender]

Hey everyone,
I've been into G scale for some time now and recently I've had an issue with my speed controller.  My first set was the Bachmann large scale Thomas, Annie, and Clarabel set and even though it comes with a controller, I preferred using the Bachmann Spectrum Magnum controller.  This year I added 2 more engines to my collection and found that the Magnum controller is presenting me with a problem.  The problem I'm running into is that when I go to power 2 trains the controller will pop and shuts down for several minutes.  The same thing will happen even if I'm running 1 train sometimes.  Here's a list of the models that I have.

Thomas The Tank Engine
Percy The Green Engine
James The Red Engine
Emily The Green Engine
LGB 2090
Bachmann 0-4-0 Side Tank Porter
Bachmann 4-6-0 Locomotive

My question is, does the Magnum controller have the capability to run the engines that I have?  If not, what controller should I be using?  As an added note, I have also upgraded to Bachmann brass track this year and at this time am using the old power connector that was made for the steel alloy track.  Any help would really be appreciated.

-Rusty

[Chuck N]

Rusty

That is a common problem with starter set power supplies.  It is probably rated at 1 amp or less.  Most of us use power supplies rated at 10 amps or higher.  I have a train that draws 7 amps.  It has two Diesel engines with two motors in each engine and six lighted passenger cars.  If your future plans are modest, no long trains with sound smoke and lighted cars, a 5amp supply should cover what have.

Since this is Bachmann site and I can't recommend other vendors.  Check with a local hobby shop.

Chuck

Note added.  When figuring power needs, I use the following as a guide.  

1. 1 amp per motor in the engine.  Some are lower, but some approach 1 amp.  My F3 diesels have two motors and they draw 1 amp each.

2. 1/2 an amp for smoke, lights, and sound.  This could be a minimum.

3. 1/2 amp per lighted car.  This could be high for some cars, but that's what I get for my USAT streamliners.

To keep from burning out your power supply its amperage rating should be several amps above your estimated maximum load.  Repeated running at near max rating is not good.

[Chuck N]

Rusty

Over on the <mylargescale.com> website have been several threads related to your question.  You will find a lot of suggestions and opinions.  Many in conflict.  You have ask a question for which there are many answers.  Mine are in the above post.  Everyone in this hobby has an opinion as to what is best, ie, it works for him/her.  That is life in Large Scale.  You will have to pick and choose what seems to be best for you. 

http://forums.mylargescale.com/29-beginner-s-forum/60330-need-expert-opinions.html

http://forums.mylargescale.com/29-beginner-s-forum/61482-will-transformer-enough.html

It gets even more fun when you ask questions about going outdoors.  It can be done and many of us run year round.   I've been outside for over 30 years.

In the snow.





and the sun.







The first two were taken on my layout in Colorado, 1983-1993 and the last three were taken at my layout in Virginia, 1994-present.  Each car in the last picture draws about 0.5 amps for the lighting.

Chuck

[Loco Bill Canelos]

Hi Rusty,

In reading your description of the specific problem with your Magnum power supply I am almost certain that it is going bad on you.

You power supply has a thermal circuit breaker which when overloaded get hot and cuts out. After cutting out it cools down and runs again til it again cuts out when overloaded.   When the thermal breaker trips repeatedly it starts to trip more often with a smaller overload and will eventually fail completely.  This is what is happening to your power supply.  A new one would be in order.    With all thermal style circuit breaker equipped power supplies it is critical to figure out why the circuit breaker is tripping, so as to avoid constant tripping which eventually ruins the transformer(power supply).

Since you are a serious Large Scaler a good 5 amp or better power supply should solve your problem.   

[Plow_Bender]

Hey Bill,
From the sounds of things I think you might be right.  The Magnum is pretty old and was only used for an HO scale layout years back.  Even then I was running up to 4 locos per line and it was doing the same to me then.  As you said, it's probably going bad.  If I remember correctly, I think Bachmann discontinued it a few years back.  I'll go ahead and see about looking for a 5 amp or higher controller.  Hopefully get up and going again sometime.

-Rusty

[Chuck N]

Rusty

Most HO power supplies are way under powered for "G" gauge trains.  HO engines draw a lot less current than the large scale engines and the drag of the train adds to the load.

Some power supplies have a switch that lets you change the voltage and power output for the scale you are running.

Most large scale power supplies top out in the 20 to 24 volt range.

Chuck

[RkyGriz]

I found this one brand new on Ebay last night. Any good?
http://www.usatrains.com/usatrainspowerpacks.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252232230538?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Thanks!
Andrew

[Chuck N]

Andrew

I just sent you a PM.

chuck

[Plow_Bender]

The USA trains one looks good, but a little pricy.  Might be able to find it cheaper as a used unit.  I'll see what I find.

-Rusty

[VictorP]

Hello,

I hope someone can help me... I have 3 DC sets (ovals) And I want to try to have 1 transformer and controller.
Is this possible?

[Loco Bill Canelos]

Hi Victor,

Saw your post over on MLS and you could do it with the Trackside version of the Revolution R/C system, as well, but it would be expensive and but not require receivers to be installed in the tenders. Also jumping back and forth to move the single controller to the correct frequency can be confusing. It would also require a pretty good power supply.

Keeping things as simple as possible I would recommend any used(or new 2 amp transformer and power supply or better one for each loop.  Even a 2 amp HO version.  With each loop separate if one goes down at least you could run the other two. I would even recommend getting a fourth as a standby if you were to go this way. 

Take care, Bill