Ticking Scratching Sound

[RkyGriz]

I can't agree with you more,Bill.  Bachmann has the best warranty in the business. Let's hope that they never change it! I lube my Anniversary locos every 4-6 hours of operation to keep them going. I also partially disassemble the drive rods and remove all of the old lubricant to ensure that there's no grime or pet hair built up in them. The more often you lube 'em the longer they'll last!

[punkin]

Do you take the bottom of the train off every 4-6 hours and lube that brass bit as well?

Thanks gentlemen...this is very informative.

[RkyGriz]

Hi, Punkin. I never remove the bottom of the chassis unless there is some kind of obvious problem with it. It's all too easy to break off those little connectors between the chassis and the cover. I've had to resolder them back together a couple of times and it's a a bit of a pain.

[NarrowMinded]

Punkn,
There are oil bottles that come with long thin tubes so you can reach these bearings.

If you don't have one you can go to a fishing tackle shop and ask for a worm inflator, which is usually just a little plastic bottle with a hollow needle.

Nm-Jeff

[RkyGriz]

If you can't find a needle bottle locally you can also search needle bottles on Ebay where you can get a set pretty cheaply. If you don't mind waiting you can get a set of 2 of them with the long metal needles for  $1.98 including free shipping. They're directly from China and the wait is normally about 2 weeks. Remember: when it comes to buying needle bottles for lubricating your train, you only want the needle bottles with the long,thin metal needle. The bottles with the shorter needle are too short to reach and the ones with the tapered needle are usually too thick to get all of the way down to the axle where the bearings are. I used to put the oil on a tooth pick to get it on the axle and bearings before I bought a set of needle bottles!
This is the direct link to one of the many auctions for needle bottles I found on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FD732-Rosin-Flux-Alcohol-Bottle-For-Rosin-Solder-Flux-Paste-1PCS-Needle-/121404402567?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c44442b87
I have a set of three of these exact same bottles and they are excellent for lubing the bearings, drive rods, and anything else on your new loco. Don't worry about having to lube it when you get it back as it will already be fully lubricated and ready to go when it arrives! Just remember to allow it a short break-in period( recommended in the video by Bachmann) every time you lube your loco by allowing it to run around the track at slow to medium speed for a few minutes in both directions with just the tender and no cars. You want to baby it at first, adding cars after it has had a chance to run for a little while. Watch the lubrication video on youtube if you have any questions on how to perform a lubrication service on your loco. That's what I did and I watch it every time I lubricate mine so I don't miss anything!
Take care!

[punkin]

Thanks again everyone,

When I bought my train I also purchased a lubrication kit that was recommended for G scale trains. It comes with four different lubricants. Excelle Lubricants #XL9012 Kit For O-G Gauge (Medium, Heavy, Gear, NLGI 2). The needle tube ends truly are the only way to go. It makes placing the oil in exactly the right place and does wonders for regulating how much is applied. I couldn't agree more...this is the only way to go :-)

Before I ran the train I saw the care and maintenance video and I did lube all the moving parts I could get to. Not too much, just a drop or two. That really is a well done tutorial. I also put a little dab of the heavy grease onto the brass gear inside the service hole on the bottom.

Again, thanks so much for all the very sound advice!

[punkin]

Hello everyone,

A bit of an update on my train and a follow up question.

I sent my 4-6-0 Anniversary back to the factory for repairs. As some of you speculated, it does appear as though they replaced the entire unit. I believe this to be true because of the front wheel assembly being entirely different.

My original train had a rather heavy metal swing arm affair from which the front wheels were supported/suspended. The new unit has a plastic assembly with a spring between the wheel assembly and main chassis. A completely different design. Also, after a more close inspection, if I'm not mistaken my original had a metal gear that could be seen through the inspection cover whereas the new has a white plastic gear.

My question is, is the new replacement considered an improvement? Is it a newer or older model? The original heavy metal swing arm seemed to be a sturdier product. Anything here I should be concerned with?

Thanks very much!

[Loco Bill Canelos]

older model.  Contact Bachmann and explain situation.


My original statement above is not correct since Punkin added a different front truck.   The correct advice should have been to contact Bachmann and explain that the front truck was changed and could Bachmann send it back.  See my detailed response below.  I was not an older model as I stated above.




Edited to reflect the correct advice. 

[punkin]

Thank you Loco Bill Canelos. I sent them an email. Laura replied and said she would contact the technician and get back with me.


Thanks!

[zubi]

Punkin, sorry to hear about your loco. How is your caboose? Still OK? Best wishes from Tokyo, Zubi

[Loco Bill Canelos]

Punkin,

Looking back at your posts, I see that you replaced your front truck on your Annie with one that is not stock for the locomotive you bought.  The Annie with the front truck that slides in the slot has the plastic gears and never had the swing arm style front truck you added. It is the same exact version 5 gear train as the one with the brass gears, So the one you bought had plastic gears.  Bachmann was correct in sending you back one with plastic gears.  When sending a locomotive back to Bachmann for repair it is CRITICAL to remove any thing you added that is not stock or changed that is important to you.  So you should have removed the front truck before sending it in for repair, and put it back on when it came back.  While I suspect you did not know this, the technician looked at the problem with the axle, saw you had the version 5 Chassis with the plastic gears and opted to send you a brand new one also with the plastic gears. 

I apologize for my earlier post when I was mistaken in saying you got back an older version when in fact you got the product you sent in.  The easiest way to deal with the problem is to ask Laura nicely if they can send you back your added on front truck.  If you still feel you were wronged please let me know exactly what the Bachmann  product number was that you bought and the road name and cab number and I can confirm what I say above.

For all reading this:: It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you remove any thing you added to your locomotive that is different from the original if it is important to you to get it back.  The generous Bachmann warranty and replacement policy replaces only the stock locomotive and cannot remove any added on item and put it back on the replacement loco.  Most likely the technicians will not even notice added on items, since they test for the problem and either replace the chassis or the whole loco at their option.  Remember to either REMOVE any added on items or as a minimum tell Bachmann service what you have changed and follow their recommendations.   

Also check out the FAQ on repairing the Big Hauler as most of it applies to the Anniversary version as well except for the higher price of the repair service fee:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,30394.0.html

Again I apologize to Punkin for the poor original advice I gave on this. 

Loco Bill

[punkin]

Thank you Bill,

My original train did come with a metal swing arm front wheel assembly. The thing was giving me difficulty when running anti-clockwise corners. After putting an Ohm meter to it I could tell that when the wheels shifted or leaned to one side or the other the continuity would drop out. I contacted Bachmann and they sent a replacement front wheel assembly which did correct the problem. Laura has been very VERY good to work with. She has been exceptionally responsive.

After replacing the front wheel assembly I thought I was good to go and a very happy camper but then after a few additional hours of run time I started to hear this ticking noise. After pulling the bottom wheel cover plate off I then noticed the brass axle carrier parts were chewing away at the chassis. This time after contacting Bachmann again, they asked me to send the entire engine in for repairs. Keep in mind, the original did have the heavy metal front wheel swing arm assembly and brass gears.

After what I thought was a very quick turn around, Bachmann sent me what appears as a brand new engine. However, it is quite different from the original in that the front wheel assembly is plastic and sits on a small spring and the drive gears are plastic.

I had a brief email exchange with the service manager who says that the technician will be emailing me with an explanation to effectively suggest that this version that I now have is as good as the model I had previously. I'm looking forward to his explanation.

Again, thank you very much Bill. I learned much from your suggestions and make no mistake I'm still very happy with the service that Bachmann has offered. I'm sure I simply had bad luck but, I am interested in knowing more about the different versions, options improvements and draw backs.

To Zubi, my caboose is great! I recently set up an update on another post. I bought the new metal wheels and electrical pickup parts. I also installed a voltage regulator, LEDs, rectifier, load resistors and capacitor. The lights are set up to run at 5 volts so they come on even before the train starts to move. They don't flicker, they dont get bright/dim with speed and work when the train goes forward or back. This has been a great little project. Couldn't be more pleased.

I now wonder if there should be light in the cabin of the engine where the driver would sit? It looks very dark when I run the train at night. I don't know what the real trains would have.

[RkyGriz]

Hey, Punkin. It it were me I wouldn't let them get away with giving you an older model. You sent in a brand new, latest model chassis loco and they returned an older model to you. Here are a couple of things that you should know:
The older chassis #5 model is what they sent you. The chassis #5 has plastic drive gears whereas the one that you bought was a chassis #6 model with the new and improved front pilot and metal drive gears. Yes, Bachmann Large scale locomotives with the earlier #5 chassis will normally run for a long time just fine as long as you do your maintenance. However, the plastic main gear inside them can split, making it slip on the drive shaft and, well...I'm sure that you get the idea.
Basically, you sent them in a brand new, updated #6 chassis locomotive and they sent an older #5 chassis loco back to you. I'm sorry, but that strikes me as an unfair exchange, especially when one considers that the #6 chassis with updated front pilot and metal gears  is currently selling for $125.00 versus $55.00 for the older #5 chassis that has plastic gears and the older front pilot. It's up to you, but speaking for myself I wouldn't accept such an unfair exchange and I would insist that they replace my loco with the exact same item.
I wish you the very best of luck!
Later.

[zubi]

Punkin, great to hear that you are happy with your caboose! I hope your locomotive problem will be sorted out soon. While you are waiting for it to be serviced, do yourself a favour and get a small reliable Porter or a diesel switcher - it is a shame to have track and a caboose that you cannot run! Best wishes from Tokyo, Zubi

[Loco Bill Canelos]

RkyGriz,

Let me be clear.  I do not work for Bachmann, but Punkin said in his first post that he changed the front truck from the one that slides in the slot to the one with the swing arm that does not ride in the slot.   If that is true, Bachmann  sent him back the correct product and it was brand new.   I totally stand by my statement made earlier And my apology to Punkin for my first bit of bad advice.  I believe he said he bought a set, so the set number would reveal what product he had. If Punkin will provide the product number or set number, I will gladly confirm what he should have got if it is different from from what I have said in my earlier posts.  Punkin may have simply been mistaken as to what he remembers. I would like him to be confident and reassured about his situation.  Telling me what the product number of what he bought will settle it for everyone.  I don't want to see anyone get screwed over, but it would be just as bad if there is a mistaken belief that creates a mis-belief for others on the forum.  

Please see my post about sending in products for repair that are modified.  

Bill