Baldwin bash - sort of. Conversion of dummy engine and tender to DCC operation

[Hunt]

Lead/ Pilot Truck and wiring to it different in current models.

Click Here

[jviss]

So, I've hit a glitch here.  The exhaust cam connection, i.e., "chuff trigger," is not described electrically in the Tsunami manual; at least not explicitly.  They way I take it, the chuff input makes and breaks contact with the rail - either one - to synchronize the exhaust sounds.  Is this correct?

The reason I think this is so is that the manual explains installing the exhaust cam on a wheel, and stresses that this disc must be electrically connected to the driver wheel to which it's mounted, and the wiper that contacts it is mounted on an insulated board, and connected to the exhaust cam input of the decoder.

Just checking - don't want to burn up anything.  If you know, please let me know!

Thanks,

jv

[Hunt]

Also review CV 112 documentation. You must program CV 112 to enable Cam Synchronized Exhaust.  The default setting is Auto Exhaust Chuff Enable.

[jviss]

Also review CV 112 documentation. You must program CV 112 to enable Cam Synchronized Exhaust.  The default setting is Auto Exhaust Chuff Enable.

Yes, saw that, thanks.

[jviss]

Almost done!  I wired lights, speaker in the tender, made nice, round section loco to tender cables, everything; received my new (and first) DCC system, the Digitrax Superchief Xtra 8 Amp, and - nothing!  Turns out I wired the lead truck pickups backwards, and presented a dead short to the rails!  Yikes! At least I know the short circuit detection works.

It was upside down, and I got my right/left, red/black backwards.  I'm having trouble with that lately.  Oh well, tomorrow's another day. 

p.s. found speakers @ 2 for $9.50, shipped.  Look identical to Bachmann stock. 

[Loco Bill Canelos]

Joe,

Kramer still has not responded.

Bill

[jviss]

Coming down the home stretch!  I made a few mistakes, and learned some interesting things. 

That generation 5 leading truck is troublesome!  I looked at the Bachmann Parts site (which I love!), but the new generation leading trucks are sold out.  I wired it a second time, having done so backwards, and wanting to preserve the color coding, rewired the truck.  The wire interferes with free movement of the truck suspension, but I got it all back to "stock" condition.  I mat address this truck in future, and also consider shortening it, and the pilot, to more closely model the prototype.  For now it works.

I found that the loco would run for a second or two then cause a rail short.  Upon examination I found that the "chuff trigger strips," as I refer to them, the strips of metal screwed to the drum between the front drivers, are shorting to the brass bearings, which besides supporting the axle are part of the power pickup system.  Now that I'm using rail power for the chuff input, when the axle slops to one side and the trigger strips' mounting screws touch the brass bearing, it shorts the rails.  I fixed this by making a couple of insulating discs of thin but firm, clear plastic from a retail blister-pack package.  They are the diameter of a dime with a quarter-inch center hole.  The hole was handily punched with a conventional stationary hole puncher, the outside trimmed with scissors using a dime as a guide.  Works.  Incidentally, I added the two additional trigger strips, salvaged from a second anniversary chassis I purchased, to get the correct four chuffs per driver revolution.  I measured them and made a drawing so I can make some more in my copious spare time.

Now, everything works!  The only glitch is that when crawling the loco at throttle setting "1," it will stop; the sound and lights continue to work, so it's not a power pickup problem.  It will continue if I raise the throttle to 2 or 3.  I don't know what it is, I suspect it may be a high-resistance spot on the motor armature, or some such thing.  Any insight or wisdom on this is sincerely appreciated. 

I'm using a speaker that is identical to the stock Bachmann speaker, and mounted in the tender with nothing else.  The sound seems O.K. to me, but I was wondering if folks have found ways to dramatically improve the sound quality.  I was thinking the treble could use a boost - the bell lacks the "attack" that I imagined it should have, but then, my experience of the prototype is limited.  Should I baffle it, or dampen it with sound-absorbing material, or apply some other treatment?

I really like the super-slow crawl you can get out of this; this is my first DCC experience.  I also love the sound, the bell, whistle, generator whine, couple clank, Johnson bar clank, water stop, etc.  Lots of fun.

I also love Bachmann.  I'm told on other LS sites that Bachmann is viewed at times with derision, but the product, value, service, and support has been nothing short of outstanding in my experience.  I've spent way too much of my lunch money at the Bachmann online parts store lately! 

So, summary, of sorts: input on the suspected motor stall at throttle = "1," and tender speaker treatment very welcome!

[Joe Zullo]

Sounds like your running gear could have a minor bind. It may very well just need some breaking in.  

[jviss]

Maybe that's it, Joe, thanks.  I ran this chassis for a little while, maybe a total of one hour, in fits and spurts.  I had forgotten all about "running in" a locomotive.  I might examine the gear box closely.

What puzzles me, though, is why the decoder isn't applying more voltage to the motor once the motor stops; shouldn't the PID control system take care of that?

[Joe Zullo]

I can't help you there as I am strictly track powered. 

[Hunt]

jviss,
REF: Speed Step 1

Realize the factory PID settings and other CV settings related to BEMF in the SoundTraxx decoder you installed are for an average HO scale locomotive not large scale.

For now, place locomotive on main track. Program your DCC system to send 128 speed steps.  Move throttle to speed step 1. Now select Ops Mode programming. Program CV 2 until the locomotive is barely moving at speed step 1.

Later as locomotive breaks-in, you may need to again adjust CV 2.

[jviss]

Gotcha, Hunt, thanks.  I've started reading through the Tsunami user guide in detail, it's pretty good at leading one through this process.  I see how to use Ops mode programming to make the loco just start to move at speed step 1.  However, mine moves very nicely on "1" but then suddenly stops.  I'll keep looking.  Maybe it's a break-in issue as Joe suggested.

[Hunt]

Properly lube the locomotive. Then clean track and locomotive wheels.

[jviss]

Yes, it's a couple of brand-new Bachmann steel straight sections and a brand-new Anniversary chassis - 'though I will check the chassis lube condition. 

I have noticed that the chassis purchased from Bachmann parts need some examination and care.  I've found loose drivers on both that I've purchased.