Yet another Locomotive Project

[jonathan]

I figure it's going to be another six to eight months before I get a chance to work on the upcoming Sound Value USRA Mikado.  So to keep my hands busy, I'm working on another brassie.  Just thought I'd share a bit.

This is an OMI S-1a 2-10-2 or Big Six:


I held out for the more expensive (ouch) version of this model because of the detail and blind driver.  Radius is a concern:  24" is the best I can do with the available space.  Even with the blind driver this loco does not like 24" radius curves.  So....

I took a file to the frame around the first and fifth driver wells, and cut a notch to give the drivers more side-to-side motion:


This actually worked... I think.    The locomotive is not completed, yet.  But I have pushed the frame/wheels around the layout to make sure it can make the curves.

For such a pricey model, I was surprised at all the bad solder joints. As an example, several parts of the tender frame came off in my hands while I disassembled.  Perhaps you can see the fresh solder where I repaired this part in the upper left corner of the photo:


Haven't gotten to the boiler, yet. I know there are numerous joints needing attention.

Anyway; progress to date...

Primer:




Tender frame:


Drilled for headlight and reverse light:


Driver frame:


In this photo, can you see how the axle blocks, on driver's one and five, are moved in just a bit?


Cleaned lubed and rewired the motor assembly.  While not used, it is 25 years old after all:


This will be the coal load one day:


Just this morning, I added decals to the tender.  Still need to be treated with microsol and so on.  But you get the idea:


Will post more as I make progress.

Regards,

Joanthan

[GN.2-6-8-0]

Thanks Jonathan'interesting as always

[Doneldon]

This will be the coal load one day:

Regards,Joanthan

Jonathan-

You want to be very careful with that white, foamy coal. I understand that it burns extremely hot.

                                                                                                                                      -- D

[Irbricksceo]

HA! Good one Doneldon.

Looking good Jonathan, I wish I had the talent, and more importantly, the Patience for some of these projects you undertake. Keep us up to date!

[MrBandO]

Jonathan:

What do you use for your primer?

Thanks,
Greg

[jonathan]

Greg,

I now use a spray primer I get from Home Depot. I think the brand is Rustoleum. It's good for wood, plastic and metal.  It works fine.

What worked the best for me was Floquil Grimy Black.  It went on incredibly thin and stuck great. Can't get that stuff anymore.

Having experimented a bit, I find the Rustoleum sticks well after being baked at 170 degrees for 20-30 minutes.  After that, it's quite difficult to remove the primer from the brass.  That's a good thing.

Following the primer I add a flat black coat, bake, than a clear gloss coat, OR a gloss black coat, bake, then decal and dullcote.

I try very hard to keep all my coats as thin as possible to avoid losing the rivet detail

Probably gave more info than needed. 


Regards,

Jonathan

[ebtnut]

Jonathon:  Where will the DCC  board and speaker go?  Vandy tenders can be a pain that way.

[jonathan]

My few brass locomotives are DC only.  I run them for my own pleasure at home. The DCC/Sound Locos travel to train shows and are for showin' off on our club modular layout.

Don't want to risk damage to these babies.  Bad enough I put a little wheel wear on them, but I can't take 'em with me.  So...

The way a brass Vandy tender is constructed, it would be quite a challenge cutting a hole large enough to install a decoder and speaker.  There are those who have done it.

Regards,

Jonathan

[rogertra]

Looking good.   

Cheers

Roger T.

[jonathan]

Thanks for the kind words, guys.

A fellow beano fan, who is much more knowledgeable than me, has been helping me with unique details.  He has access to picture angles we internet surfers don't often get.

Thus, I'm constructing a few extra details to throw around the tender.

There was a gadget connected to the coupler lift bar, so the crewman wouldn't have to climb down from the top of the tender to uncouple:


It's removable for storage--just hangs on a fine hook:




This is a penstock hook; handy for grabbin' stuff when you're on top of the tender.  Not sure where to install it, yet, but every tender had one:

Made of steel wire--I haven't painted it, yet.

After 7 treatments of microsol and two coats of dullcoat, the decal edges never did completely disappear.  Sometimes, things just don't go your way:


Regards,

Jonathan

[jbrock27]

Great stuff!

[GN.2-6-8-0]

Would of helped had you applied the words separtely!

[jonathan]

Yep.  Just call me, lazy. 

[jbrock27]

I wondered about that myself, but, would that not have made it more difficult to get them all lined up on the same axis?

[jonathan]

That's the reason I don't cut them separately--so they line up.  I do intend to weather the whole locomotive, once it's done.  That should help.  Plus, the camera really brings out the lines.  Hard to see in person.

Anyway, tender is done, save for weathering and the coal load.  The reverse light works. On to the main event:







Regards,

Jonathan