N Scale Voltage and Amperage

[BrettC]

I just bought a new N Scale Bachmann EMD GP40 Diesel Loco,

I would like to know how much current it pulls (without any cars behind it) and what the voltage requirement is so I can build an appropriate controller.

I could not find these specs on the Bachmann site or the paper work that accompanied it.

I looked at some Bachmann Controllers on line, but it didn't list the voltages or the current that it can supply.

Anybody got a link or can supply this info?

Thanks, Brett

[richg]

I just bought a new N Scale Bachmann EMD GP40 Diesel Loco,

I would like to know how much current it pulls (without any cars behind it) and what the voltage requirement is so I can build an appropriate controller.

I could not find these specs on the Bachmann site or the paper work that accompanied it.

I looked at some Bachmann Controllers on line, but it didn't list the voltages or the current that it can supply.

Anybody got a link or can supply this info?

Thanks, Brett

The only numbers I have seen over the years are those supplied by model railroaders. Never at a manufactures site.

Get yourself a cheap digital multimeter from Lowe's or Home Depot. The three digital meters I have are from Harbor Freight and cost about $4.00 each.
They read 13.6 VAC for my DCC NCE Power Cab in case you ever get concerned about measuring DCC voltage to the track.
The only people who say these meters are no good are the ones who do not use them. Go figure.

http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_Workshop/index.htm

http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_HF/index.htm

Rich

[jbrock27]

Not the only ones.  26% of those who bought that meter and took the time to post a review of it said they "would not recommend it to a friend".  That's not even considering the reviews for the other meter they have, that looks just like it, where only 46% would bother to recommend it to a friend. 
I am sure most people who knew the YUGO was a hunk of junk, didn't have to own it to have that opinion either.  I would rather put my $5.50 toward something that will last from HD or LOWES or SEARS or TRUE VALUE; even with the prospect of getting it for free w/a coupon.  Go figure.

[richg]

I will add that I have an expensive meter and a Scope. The cheap meters were within 0.1 volt. Plenty good enough for model railroading.
I did some real readings.
I keep another meter in my car.
Guess how much to replace versus an expensive meter if you smoke the meter accidentally?

Rich

[Mark.S+10]

DC N scale voltage varies from zero to about twelve volts.  The variable voltage is how you control the speed of the motor.  Amp draw is around 1/3 amp for small N scale engines.

Have fun, Mark

[richg]

The current for N scale is around 200 to maybe 300 ma for the locos I have seen so far. The standard Bachmann controller will handle them just fine.
Yours is new and I would suspect 200 ma. The drivers will slip if there is too much load, grades, tight curves.

Rich

[jbrock27]

I will add that I don't have stock in Harbor Freight or ownership in a Harbor Freight store (non Bachmann products I will also add).
Rich,  what can I say, I guess you ended up with a HF meter that works just fine and yes, I know others here have had luck with them, but I don't like the odds of getting a good one (see above reviews).
Lastly, I would suggest that those who would pass on the HF meter, would be the same people who have less of a chance of frying one during improper use, than those people who see the HF meter as a great deal and would actually buy one (or get one for free-what's that saying again? )

[richg]

Hard to know if some do not know how to use a meter or those who do and the meter was not correct.
I have worked in electronics since 1954, did 14 years as a NASA contractor and had the best equipment money could buy.
I will have to get out my function generator and do some frequency checks of the meters.
I see the same on ebay. I think one company in China makes them and different distributors sell them with slightly different cases.
My one analog multimeter is a different story.
I use one HF in a DIY DCC amp meter. A couple three terminal SMD parts change the DCC signal to DC current. Both My Power Cab and Power Pro trip out at the proper current.
When someone tells me they do not like something, I ask them for details. Don't like it tells me nothing.
I see the same about Bachmann locos in other forums. Some do not know how to use DCC and blame the Bachmann loco or do not read all the details about the onboard non decoder or sound decoder specs or EZ Command controller.
I belong to maybe twenty forums and I see the occasional bashing. Not as bad as it was twenty years or so ago.

Rich

[jbrock27]

I have an analog meter as well, from Radio Shack years ago.  When I bought a digital meter, that became the backup and sits in my vehicle.  It still works, but aside from being able to check the battery, alternator and some continuity, I don't know what use it will serve with the modern cars of today with all their computerization that have electronic parts that are meant to simply be unharnessed and replaced with no adjustment option.
If you read the HF reviews left on the meters, you will see that people do give details as to why they don't like them and why they like them as well.  I don't ever purchase a tool thinking that if it fails, it is inexpensive to replace.  Poorly made tools hurt people; that's why people purchase tools like Craftsman and Snap On.
Yes, I know you are on other forums, I have come across your postings and yes there is still some bashing that goes on, but not as much as twenty years ago.  The reason?  The product has improved soooo much since then and frankly, that is the only direction it could go.

[BrettC]

Thanks to "richg" for the great links and to "Mark.S+10" for providing actual numbers.

I have multi-meters, but didn't bother to measure any outputs before the transformer overheated. I can't trust any reading now.

I'm going to start with a 12VDC supply from one of my old laptops (look out for those posts with transformers vs. power supplies).  They seem to be more sophisticated than just a rinky-dink transformer.

And I'm going to buy a rheostat at radioshack because that's what the old Atlas transformer has in it.  I've heard I can wire it in line, but I'll do some more research and trace out the wiring from the Atlas as well to see how to properly hook it up.

With gratitude,

Brett

[BrettC]

When I saw this link with MIT in it, I knew I was in for something good.

http://tmrc.mit.edu/sys3/blockcard/


But, er, um, it's a bit to heavy for me.  But I did find something interesting that I can use in the meantime while I pursue my Electrical Engineering degree (just kidding).


"Be able to drive a voltage of 0-16V at up to 1A onto the tracks. Each block card supports 8 blocks. Each block's voltage must be individually controlled.

    Train motors generally take much less than 1A, but it may take up to 1A to get them started.
        In addition, the card must not blow up if the track is short-circuited."