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Removing Choke Coils

Started by ike8120, August 03, 2013, 12:46:58 PM

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ike8120

I cut out the choke coils completely. Is it necessary to add a jumper wire?

Gary

Joe Satnik

I would think a jumper for every coil removed...
If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.

richg

Quote from: ike8120 on August 03, 2013, 12:46:58 PM
I cut out the choke coils completely. Is it necessary to add a jumper wire?

Gary

Yes, motor current cannot pass without a connection. Removing the caps is the usual solution, no caps, the inductors are a moot issue.
I have worked with capacitor/inductor circuits, tuned circuits, for many years.

Rich

GG1onFordsDTandI

Forgive my ignorance, but why exactly are you guys removing them?

seadowns

Hi!

I can just tell about my experience with DCCing several 300 locos:

Usually is it not necessary to remove the coils but in most cases have the caps between the motor contacts to be removed. Ich remove and bridge the coils only if I need to get more space for a decoder in the loco.
I never had problems with unremoved coils but in most of the cases with cap left in because they can disturb the decoders finetuning abilities and causes the model havoc.

Best regards
Mathi

GG1onFordsDTandI

Quote from: seadowns on August 09, 2013, 09:12:25 AM

I never had problems with unremoved coils but in most of the cases with cap left in because they can disturb the decoders finetuning abilities and causes the model havoc.
Best regards
Mathi
Written a little confusing, but I do understand. The boards probably controls or measures capacitance with some features.

                   VVVVV- This was close enough for me -VVVVV
"they can disturb the decoders finetuning abilities and causes the model havoc."

Thanks Mathi

seadowns

Yes, it is confusing but what I was talking about are the caps between the motor tabs, nit those on the pcb for light control or something.
I hope I made it clear enough.
BTW: Not always is the cap obsolete. I've solderd a decoder into a very old german Arnold class 103 directly on the pcb and everything was fine. Some months later when I was maintaining this loco and removed the pcb to get down to the motor I found a cap on the backside pcb which I haven't recognised before. Well, I clipped it off, reassembled the loco after maintainance was done and then put it back in the wall cabinet.
About 7 months later I grabbed this loco out again to let it run on my layout. Tell you what: the loco was totally crazy and it took me 3 almost sleepless nights before I've got the clou.
Out of my bed and the iron heated on and I soldered a cap back on the pcb.
After all the loco was ok again, go figure.

What I wanted to say in few words:
It is not recommended to remove the motor cap but in most locos it is.

Regards
Mathi