Engine

[PACE]

My engine runs fine, however it stalls and the engine keeps running. This is on my g scale Christmas hauler. Is this something that I need to send in for repair or is it a simple fix?

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

My engine runs fine, however it stalls and the engine keeps running. This is on my g scale Christmas hauler. Is this something that I need to send in for repair or is it a simple fix?

Do you mean it stalls and you can hear the motor turning? Or it spins its wheels? Sounds keep running?

[PACE]

Yes, the engine keeps running but the wheel don't turn.

[Barry BBT]

Pace,

You are confusing us, electric trains have an engine which pulls the train, but the locomotive has an electric motor, not an engine (which is found in cars and trucks).

Do you what age your loco is? 

But basically what is happening is that the motor is disengaged from its gearing, why and how to fix will depend upon which drive you have in the loco.

Barry

[PACE]

This is an electric g scale train. The electric motor keep running but the wheel don't turn. This is also a  4-6-0 Big Hauler Christmas Electric Loco. If you can give me some advice, I would appreciated. Thanks

[Barry BBT]

There have been six design generations of Bachmann Big Hauler locos.

Knowing which one you have is the start to discovering how to correct the problem(s).

First Gen: battery powered/plastic track

2nd Gen:  first track powered loco, metal track (indoors only).

3rd Gen: The Plus generation, good gears, bad motor mount.  Fix: strapping the motor.

4th Gen: Single large worm gear, worm on motor to match, metal bracket for the motor, but the plastic bushings on the axle would shift and the motor could then carve up the worm gear.

5th Gen.  First open gearbox, nicely done, but do not overload it.

6th Gen: First gear box with all metal (brass) gears.  The best so far, should perform well over a long time.

Barry 

[PACE]

In case you can't tell, I am a newbee. However my Loco is of the second Generation, first track powered loco, metal track (indoor only). The loco runs fine, but when a load is applied or at times the electric motor keeps running but the wheels stop turning.  Please help!!! Thanks

[Barry BBT]

PACE,

In all of the drive generations, the problem is caused by the motor being disconnected from the gear train, or if set screws are involved (not in your unit) a loose screw.

Very likely the motor has moved out of contact with the worm gear.  In your case the motor has a small spur gear, usually white plastic (a friction fit on the motor shaft).  If the motor runs and the gear doesn't move, you'll need a new spur gear (I have them).  If the spur gear moves but any of the next gears in the gear train (non-RR), then examine the gear that is not moving and the gears preceeding it, for the problem.

If it happens to be the plastic spur gear, it is not a good repair to send you the gear only, but will replace with a motor with the gear in place (hopefully for a good amount of time).

Barry

[PACE]

OK, Barry, good information. Now how do I get to these gears? I am mechanically incline.  And how do I order from you the parts I need? Thanks

[Loco Bill Canelos]

You can click on his name and it will show his email or you can send him a private message.

[PACE]

Thanks Bill, but I still need to know how to get to the gears. I don't want to go into the wrong thing. Thanks

[Barry BBT]

Pace,

In all cases, on a soft surface, a folded up towel, invert the loco so you can get to the bottom of the loco with a phillips screwdriver.  This piece is called the bottom plate, there are about four screws to remove; one near the rear hook and before the lube port (my gift to Bachmann), go about six more inches for the next screw, then down into the bridge section under the pilot truck, another screw and finally between the cylinders and in front of the pilots swing/crescent a long screw that goes all of the way into the bottom of the boiler.

There are two brass or black braces on either side of the smokebox coming from the pilot beam, pull the ends of the braces out of the smoke box sides.  Lift the bottom plate off, go towards the back of the loco and you will see the gears, motor, etc.  (I just remembered, you may not have a lube port if this loco is very old - over ten years).

Barry 

[Dave]

Ive got one of these Locos Barry, and you are correct, there is no Lube port. Rather than fix the gears I would suggest a repower with a series 5 Chassis that Bachmann are selling.Probably the cheaper option, but if you want a drivetrain with a bit more grunt, then Barry has the answer. I have just purchased a series 5 to repower my series 2 Big Hauler and they are really good value. My next project, a Garret, using 2 of these Chassis,when I get a roundtuit.

              Dave
                 New Zealand

[Barry BBT]

Pace,

Dave just beat me to the punch, especially if your loco is a 2nd Gen (first track power).  Dave is right, Bachmann has been offering two version of it's fifth gen drive chassis, the cheaper of the two is what will fit without problems (the more expensive has larger cylinders and requires adapting the air tanks to fit).

If you have a third gen drive, all kinds of solutions come to mind.  The third gen drive problem stems from the motor moving out of it's mount, but that is solved by "strapping the motor". 

If you have a third gen, I will send you the instructions for that fix.

Let me know what you think you have.

Barry

[Loco Bill Canelos]

Dave's idea is a great way to go, not only that it is way cheaper than sending the loco in to service.  Dave, would love to see your project, please post about it when you get to it. 

Bill