What type of coupler for Bachmann Thoroughbred set?

[crunc]

My son bought a Bachmann Thoroughbred train set and he loves it, but two of the couplers have broken already. I want to buy replacements, but there are so many different versions it seems. What type does his train need? "E-Z Mate® Center Shank - Medium" or something else? Also, what is the difference between the those and the "E-Z Mate® Mark II" couplers? Do I want short, medium or long? Also, are any of these stronger then the ones that came with the train/less likely to break?

[OldTimer]

The Kadee #5 coupler is pretty much a de facto standard replacement coupler.  It's made of metal and is very strong.  Look here for instructions for your freight cars.

http://www.kadee.com/conv/pdf/558in.pdf

Locomotives can be a little more of a problem, and Kadee provides extensive information on how to convert literally hundreds of engines.  They make a special conversion kit for the Bachmann F7.  Look here:

http://www.kadee.com/conv/pdf/b26.pdf

Look around the site while you're there.  Kadee invented the magnetically operated knuckle coupler and you can learn a lot from their site.  While you're shopping, get a coupler height gauge to check all your couplers for correct installation, and get some powered graphite to lubricate them.   Hope you find this helpful.
OldTimer

[crunc]

I think I'd like to stick to the Bachmann parts or equivalent. I want an easy replacement, at least for now. What version of the coupler do I need or how can I figure that out by looking at the couplers on there?

Also, how do you adjust the height of the couplers on there? Some are higher/lower then others. Do you just try to bend them?

[jbsmith]

Kadee #148 would be a good replacement.
Not complicated at all. Just swap them out. No need for anything beyond that.
If you still have the paperwork, there should be an explosion cart of the F7, from there it should not be too difficult
to figure out how to remove the coupler covers.
Just a precision screwdriver set is all you will need tool wise.
These Kadee #148 are metal and you really have to go out of your way out to break them.

If you paperwork has been misplaced here is the chart for the FT,,not all that different from the F7.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/11702.pdf

[ACY]

Kadee #148s are a all metal drop in replacement, and will be hard to break. The Bachmann couplers are plastic and can break under large loads or with rough handling. If you need higher or lower coupler couplers they sell those, look for ones with an over shank or under shank.

[OldTimer]

If you bend the shank of a coupler that sits too high or too low, the shank will bind in the draft gear box and the coupler will not center properly.  Kadee makes thin fiber washers that can be used between the car frame and trucks to raise a low coupler.  A coupler that's too high is more of a problem.  If the coupler box is a separate piece, it can be removed and shimmed down the required amount.  If the box is cast as part of the underframe, remove it (an Xacto chisel blade works well), replace with a new box and shim as necessary.  If the height difference is about half the thickness of the coupler head, you can use an offset shank coupler.   The underset shank raises the coupler and the overset shank lowers the coupler.  Hope t his helps.
OldTimer

[crunc]

Ok, thanks. I'll give them a shot. Do I need to change all the couplers at once, or can they work with the (non-broken) stock couplers? Also, does anyone have a good source for buying small quantities of couplers (or other parts) at a low cost?

[ACY]

Ok, thanks. I'll give them a shot. Do I need to change all the couplers at once, or can they work with the (non-broken) stock couplers? Also, does anyone have a good source for buying small quantities of couplers (or other parts) at a low cost?

You do not need to change them all at once. The cheapest way to get couplers is to buy them in bulk packs of 50 or 25 pair, if you buy only 2 or 4 pair it will be much more costly, there is no source where you can get 4 pair at the same cost per pair as 25 pair. You either buy a few for more per pair or a bulk pack for a big discount per pair. But bulk packs usually do not include couplers boxes as far as Kadees go.

[jward]

i only replace couplers as they fail or break. as others have said, the kadee 148 would be the best bet.

to go a step further, invest in a kadee #205 coupler height guage. this will let you set the height to one standard, and following the examples others have given in this thread will eliminate the problem of coupler height mismatch.

one disadvantage of plastic couplers is tha fact that, as you've discovered, they can be bent. if the trip pins sit too low they will snag on switches, and can cause derailments. often a plastic coupler that has snagged while the train is moving at speed will permanently bend the coupler. the kadee guage also has a place to measure trip pin height, and the use of coupler trip pin pliers to adjust the pins may keep you from having the replace more of the plastic couplers.

[crunc]

I'm probably not going to buy a 25 pair pack, as we only have one engine and 3 cars. If these Kaydee couplers are pretty much break-proof, then it's cheaper to just buy two 2-pair packs. A lot cheaper. If I knew we'd be expanding I'd buy a 25 pack, but my kids are 8 and 9 and who knows if they are going to stick with it.

I take it if I were to buy the height gauge, there's no point in doing that if I don't also buy those fiber washers to adjust the height? Or is there some other way to adjust the height? It didn't look like it, but I want to be sure. Do those fiber washers have a part number?

EDIT: for now I decided just to order the couplers. Two 2-pair packs for $8.60 shipped from amazon.

[jward]

fiber washers are one way of adjusting the height. another way is to use underset or overset couplers.

as for the guage, it will tell you which cars need their height adjusted, and which ones don't. it will also tell you which trip pins need adjusted. adjusting the trip pins is often all you need to get a car up to standards. from my experience, trip pins that are too low cause problems. trip pins that are too high may affect magnetic uncoupling, but little else.....

which kadees did you order?

[crunc]

I ordered the Kadee #148. That's the right ones, right. "HO Whisker Coupler, 9/32" Center (2pr)". Correct?

[crunc]

I finally got my Kadee couplers in and after struggling a bit, managed to get them installed, but what I find is that they don't seem to allow me to tighten the screw as much. This isn't a problem for two of the cars, but one of them I can't tighten the screw at all. Anything short of falling off results in the coupler not centering itself. It stays to one side or the other - it's stiff. Is there a solution for this other then replacing the coupler box, something I'm not sure I'm prepared to do. Does the coupler box just need some sort of lubricant to get it to work well?

[OldTimer]

Powdered graphite makes an excellent lubricant for couplers.  Your local hardware store should carry it...comes in a little tube with a nozzle at one end.  While you're at it, examine the inside of the coupler box and around the box opening for flash (thin little ridges of plastic).  Use the edge of an X-acto blade to scrape away anything you find.  And....make sure you're not putting the lid on upside down.  Hope this helps.
OldTimer

[jward]

are you sure you have the whiskers on both sidesm of the coupler inside the box? they won't center properly otherwise.