Bachmann "Yard Boss" train set questions

[Neon Man]

Hello everyone!   


I bought B-mann's "Yard Boss" set a few weeks back as an intro  to N scale since I had always had HO before.  I realize that a "starter set" is not really the best way to get started *lol* and is best for Christmas gifts for the kids, etc. . . . .   BUT . . .

I also purchased a set of 6 x 5" straight EZ track so I could make an oval that would easily fit on my 2' x 4' coffee table! 


Anyway, after running this little train set (which I really like!) around a few weeks  . . . I have some questions.  Perhaps the "Bach-Man" or others could chime in and help me.


1)  I noticed that after an hour or two of running, the little 0-6-0 ran much more quietly and smoothly.  I ran it forwards and backwards at varying speeds until it seemd "broken in" . . .  So: HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO BREAK IN A NEW LOCO?

2)  After a week or so, I cleaned the track because the loco seemed to run in jerks and spurts.  I used an old cotton T-shirt cut into strips. I also used rubbing alcohol.

3) Over the next week or two, performance noticably DECREASED in spite of judicious track cleaning, etc.

4) If I ran the "Yard Boss" in reverse, performance was noticably BETTER, and very prototypical at a setting of ~ 30-35 on the Bachmann power pack.

5)  Now . . . in spite of track cleaning, running forward and reverse at varying speeds, etc. etc. my little "Yard Boss"  isn't doing well at all. 

6)  I realize this is an INTRODUCTORY set . . . and not the highest quality that Bachmann makes (as compared to their "Spectrum" line?) but, could someone give me some advice??    . . . . Do I need to clean and/or lubricate the locomotive, etc.  

(I looked and searched on this site for "lubrication" etc. but it seems that "less is more" when it comes to oiling a loco)


I can't see how this would be necessary . . .  perhaps the product sat on my LHS shelf for a few years?


I understandably bought this "introductory" set as a "feeler" for about $130, but  . . . Jeez . . .before I spend $200 or more for a good qaulity loco, can someone here give me some suggestions or tips?


Thanks, and all best,
Joe

[NYC1956]

An hour or two of running is usually enough to break-in most locomotives. Some benefit from more.

You had the right idea about cleaning the track. You say you used rubbing alcohol. That usually contains some oil which could have allowed dirt to build up on the track and wheels. That would hamper electrical pick-up. Use plain isopropyl alcohol 70% or higher concentration. Clean the track and the wheels again and your problems should disappear.

Even if you used alcohol with no additives the first time, it is possible the track became contaminated afterward. New locomotives often arrive from the factory over-lubricated. Running the locomotive causes oil to get spread over the track and wheel treads. Dirt is attracted and there goes your electrical continuity.

Clean again and let us know if you still have trouble. Hopefully this is helpful and solves your problem.

[the Bach-man]

Dear Joe,
Try a little conductive lubricant on the rails. wheel treads, and pickup points.
This should improve performance appreciably.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

[Neon Man]

OK . . . thanks for your replies NYC1956 and Bach-man!

Yes, I have been using  70% isopropyl alcohol. But, no matter how much I clean the tracks with it (using soft cotton T-shirt scraps)  I still manage to get some "black" on the cloth.  The last time I had trains they had BRASS tracks, so you can see how long it's been for me!    I thought that the "new" nickel-silver rails were supposed to conduct electricity better than the old brass tracks??   


This morning, I picked up the loco and carefully cleaned the wheels and the tender wheels using Q tips with the alcohol. No dirt or oil could be seen.

Bach-man, what do you mean by "conductive lubricant"?   Is this something that Bachmann sells? 

My loco is running worse than ever . . .  I used to let it run 1-2 hours at a time at a setting of about "40" on the Bachmann power pack . . . now it needs "80" to run at all.  I checked all the wires and plugs, and track connections and they all seem to be OK.

I am wondering if there is a certain number of hours a loco can run before it needs to be lubricated?  I'm afraid to take it apart to oil it, etc. but if I need to, I will try.

Once again, I realize this is NOT a top quality loco . . . but I need to get a good feel for N scale equipment before I spend hundreds of dollars more on this hobby.  I am indeed trying to have fun!!   

Let me ask my question this way: How many hours (at "prototypical" speed) can an introductory N scale loco like the "Yard Boss" be expected to run continuously before it needs service?    

I am interested in "continuous running" for now.  I hope to be able to do switching operations with a better quality DCC equipped loco later on.

Thanks again for your patience with me and my newbie questions.


All best,
Joe

[brokemoto]

This thing usually runs better the more that you run it.   It does require extensive break in.

The next question might be what issue is it?  B-mann has issued this thing in various configurations over the years, the most recent's being the best.


Question one :  are the drawbar and tender electrically live?

If not, it is a really old issue.

If the drawbar is electrically live, is it clunky and does it have foil on the contact edges or does it have stiff wires?  If it has stiff wires, it is the most recent issue.

If it is the most recent issue, what you might want to do is disconnect the tender from the locomotive, and bend in the stiff wires to ensure better conduct with the contact post on the locomotive.  You might want to  hold the drawbar with a pair of needlenose pliers and choke up on the wires, lest your bending them cause the stiff wires to come unsoldered.  This drawbar is an 'economy version' of the SPECTRUM drawbar.

If it is the earlier issue, you might want, again,  to disconnect the locomotive from the tender.  Under the locomtive's cab are two contact tabs.  Bend them up to ensure good contact with the drawbar.  Unscrew the lead truck from the tender.  Bend up the contact tabs on the top of the truck ever so slightly.  Reassemble the whole business and put it back onto the track.

The electrically live tender is an important part of the electrical contact of this locomotive, hence an important part of its runnability.


While I was typing this, I see that the OP was posting something.  It sounds like you might have a carbon caking problem on the armature.  If you will unscrew the screw in the steam dome, the shell will lift off.  You might want to put a little Life Like track cleaner onto the armature where the brushes contact it.  Put the thing onto the track, without its shell, but with its tender, then apply power.  It should sputter and stumble, then take off flying.  It  might take two or three applications with a Q-tip to get it cleaned off. 

You did mention a possibility that it sat on the store shelf for some time.  If that is the case, carbon caking is a very real possibility.

[Neon Man]

Wow! 

brokemoto, that was a GREAT post!   

Ok . . . I have the version which seems to be "clunky and has foil edges" but no "stiff wires" are to be seen anywhere . . .

As you suggest:

"If it is the earlier issue, you might want, again,  to disconnect the locomotive from the tender.  Under the locomtive's cab are two contact tabs.  Bend them up to ensure good contact with the drawbar.  Unscrew the lead truck from the tender.  Bend up the contact tabs on the top of the truck ever so slightly.  Reassemble the whole business and put it back onto the track.
The electrically live tender is an important part of the electrical contact of this locomotive, hence an important part of its runnability."

And yes,


"While I was typing this, I see that the OP was posting something.  It sounds like you might have a carbon caking problem on the armature.  If you will unscrew the screw in the steam dome, the shell will lift off.  You might want to put a little Life Like track cleaner onto the armature where the brushes contact it.  Put the thing onto the track, without its shell, but with its tender, then apply power.  It should sputter and stumble, then take off flying.  It  might take two or three applications with a Q-tip to get it cleaned off. 

You did mention a possibility that it sat on the store shelf for some time.  If that is the case, carbon caking is a very real possibility.".
.
..

Yes, brokemoto, I was editing my post!   


THANK YOU ever so much for your reply!  Between being an introductory loco, sitting on a shelf for a few years, (and my being a newbie!!), you have probably figured out what is going on!

First I will get some small screwdrivers, etc.   *lol*

Then I will make the attempts to fix up my loco with your great advice!

All best,
Joe

[Neon Man]

Okay, brokemoto . . . 

I got hold of a very small Philip's screwdriver, and as you suggested, I took off the lead truck on ther tender. Sure enough, I saw two copper tabs which I could easily bend slightly with a fingernail.

When I removed this lead truck, I examined the drawbar and the area where it connects to the loco . . . but I could NOT see any sort of tabs under the loco's cab. In fact, even with a 16x jeweler's loupe, I cannot see how any electrical contact could be made from the draw bar to the loco!   

Anyway I reassembled the whole thing and it ran noticably better!  I ran it for eight hours straight at a setting of "40" on the Bachmann power pack, then gradually slowed it down and let it "rest" overnight.   


This morning I started it up and it's running smoothly at a setting of "50", so your advice was spot on! 



Two more questions, please . . . 

1)  could you please explain more about that "carbon caking" you mentioned?  (My screwdriver is not small enough to remove the screw in the top of the sand dome, so I can't get the shell off at this time).  If the loco sat around on a shelf for a few years in a sealed package, how could carbon form on the motor??

2)  could you also go into a little more detail about the two contact tabs under the loco's cab?  As I mentioned, I just can't see anything.  perhaps something is missing on my model?  *lol*


Thank you ever so much for your time and consideration! 


"The Bach-man" should give you a raise!   



All best,
Joe

[cagle06]

Greetings
  I rencemtly purchased the above referenced engine set.  I am no spring chicken to the N scale.  I am using this one to get my son started.  I am also using the easy track system which I love.  I must state though that every problem the above user references I have as well.  I have spent hours tonight researching or looking for reviews didnt find much ,but came here to report the issues after I saw that Bachmann talk to the customer directly.  I recently got the 16 pier set and I have found that I am having engine performance issues.  I can't run the train with more than perhaps 3 at max 4 cars or when I do the engine as it heads up wards begins to slip on the track and can't seem to pull the weight unless I max the speed of the power pack out.  I would appreciate some feed back on this please.  Please note I am currently unemployeed and spend pretty all my free time messing with the engine and track. 

[skipgear]

The pier sets are pretty much useless. The grade they reperesent is too steep for many locos to pull. I think assembled properly they represent a 6% grade or more. 2% is the accepted max for most modelers anymore. As a rough rule of thumb, every percent of grade you increase, you need to cut your train length in half to make the grade. If the loco will pull 20 cars on 1% before slipping, 2% yeilds a 10 car train, 3% yeilds a 5 car train, etc. etc.

As you increase grade you are forcing the train to do more work.

[ACY]

I agree with skipgear. You could mu another loco or 2, that is what real RRs do when they have trouble making the grade, but I'm not sure how a pusher would work out unless you had working knuckle couplers.

[8man]

   I have one of the 0-6-0 engines.  Mine is an excellent runner. 
No stalling.  Even on my atlas insulated frog turnouts. 

   If you want yours to run better, bending the wires, and contacts
for the drawbar help...but it needs more.

    Can you solder?

    If yes, grab some wire and a soldering iron.

1) Disassemble the tender

2) Move the truck with the contacts to the back
     ( this makes the pickup from the loco and tender father
           apart, ensuring that if the loco is on a bad spot, the tender is not )

3) solder a wire to each contact

4) drill two holes at the rear of the tender floor, and two at the front

5) pass the wires through the tender body, and solder the ends
       to the drawbar   

6) re-assemble and enjoy flawless pickup


   It sounds harder than it is.  The only issue this little loco has is the pickup.

    I'm planning on buying a few more, now that I've seen how much better they
can run.


Good luck.

[jake_iv]

I tried another tack on my 0-6-0s.  I purchased the tender truck set from the Bachmann store - (it is a pickup truck) and replaced the rear truck with the new pickup truck, then added a very flexable wire between the front and rear trucks.  Now my pickup signature is about 4" long and the problems have all but disappeared.

One thing I have found is that new standard line locos seem to be over lubricated from the factory quite often.  I have found that removing the shell from the loco (whatever model it is) and spraying the motor and mechanism with "CRC QD Electronic Cleaner - part #05103" - available at most Walmart and auto parts stores; cleaned all that extra lube from the loco.  Then I lubed it with Bachmann EZ lube and those locos outperform all the ones that came before I discovered the "clean and relube" step.