Gluing tracks down... stupid question from newbie!

[TrainArts]

Just my two cents worth, the last time I "glued" track was N scale Kato unitrack (not much different, in theory, from Bachmann EZ-track).

I have not seen anyone refer to alcohol in this thread. I'm sure others may not agree, but I would water down elmer's glue and add rubbing alcohol in about equal parts.

Then I would spread ballast over the tracks and spray or drip the boozed up glue and water. The alcohol really helps it spread and the end result sticks very well.

I'm sure people will find holes in my process but it worked very well for me.

Jim

[ChrisS]

thanks mike... that's what i was going to try...

[Andy A]

Ran across an article last night in the new On30 Annual suggesting a foam adhesive called PL300 the author used for his foam base. I'm not familiar with the product but it could probably be found at the BORG (Big Orange Retail Giant) Store. If not, There's Liquid Nails and other construction adhesives available in both squeeze  and caulking tube. Most all of these are going to give a permanent bond so don't even think about changing anything after the glue cures!

[jmhewitt]

I do a few things differently:

1.  I hold the track in place with the round toothpicks that are sold at Crackerbarrel (discovered by my spouse).

2.  I use an eyedropper and put 90% isopropyl alcohol over all the track segments, but NOT over the turnouts.

3.  then I make a mix of 30-50% elmers glue with water and drip it over the track (and again, not over the turnouts, except possibly the ends opposite the points).

4.  now put some bricks on top of the track to hold it in place....you DID leave space for them in step 1, didn't you!!!  they can be on their side or on their ends....

and the best part of this technique:  if you need to lift the track, get out a 1 or 1.5" paint scraper, and slide it under the track -- should lift right up leaving the foam undamaged.

Michael Hewitt
Hampstead, NC

[mabloodhound]

PL300 is a 'Foam" friendly adhesive and won't 'eat' into it.   It is really a polyurethane product (think Gorilla Glue).
Personally, I prefer the latex adhesive caulk.   A thin layer spread out and then press the track into it.   No mess with water or glue and if removal becomes necessary. track will 'pop' right off with a putty knife.
The caulk also works well for laying the roadbed too.

[BKJ]

Michael, does this work for tight curves as well or do they tend to lift up?

mabloodhound, what name brand and model of latex caulk do you use? Is it possible to remove track if need be?

Thanks all!

[mabloodhound]

I use DAP caulk, the cheap stuff is just fine.
Remember to spread it thin, you don't want it to squeeze out and up between the ties.

[BKJ]

Here's a question for you all.

If I don't mount foam to a board, what do you all use or recommend for the thickness of the foam insulation board?

I was thinking 2" thick to give it rigidity but I might be overlooking something.

Thanks,

Bruce

[JohnR]

I use Liquid Nails for Projects.  While it does have a much stronger bond than white glue solutions, it's still possible to break it free.  I used a very thin layer (~ 1/16") on foam coated with earth-tone latex paint.  I put two, 1/4" wide lines down (on either side of my centerline).

I'm doing portable modules and white glue doesn't handle the abuse as far as the track is concerned.  It does fine for ballast and other scenery items.

-John

[BKJ]

John for your displays, what do you use for the base foam of the layout?

Thanks again,

Bruce

[El Loco]

Ive glued track down with carpenters wood glue "the heavy yellow stuff" rather  if its Elmer's or tight bond  (Lowe's)  it works for me. I spread a thin layer down and then  weight it down wait a short while and its down . want to remove it? Spray it lightly with  hot water  and it lifts back up. . But... Liquid nails is great  & very permanent.

[Mike_AA9ZY]

I'm using 2" blue foam over an open grid of 1x4"joists. I apply glue to the blue foam and then set my module benchwork on top and weight it down. I then leave alone for a day or two and then the basic module is complete.

BTW, the reason I went with modules was in case I move someday I can take the layout down to manageable chunks.

[JohnR]

Bruce -

Most of the modules are XPS foam (extruded polystyrene).  This is typically blue or pink in color and available in several thicknesses.   All of the modules have sturdy but lightweight frames to support the foam.

-John

[BKJ]

Thanks guys!

So, for building a 2'x4' micro layout, I should strengthen  the bottom with some sort of wood bracing.

Thanks,

Bruce

[JohnR]

For a 2x4 micro, I'd make a 2x4 frame with a cross brace midway along the 4ft sides.   XPS foam can (and will) flex if it can.

For added strength, we cover the top of our frames with 3/16" ply (luan/doorskin).  This has a few benefits.  First, it ties the frame together and stiffens it.  Second, it creates a broad gluing surface to bond the foam (vs. just the frame edges.  Lastly, even though it's thin ply, it provides a wooden mounting surface for switch machines, terminal blocks, wire tie-downs, etc.

-John