K-27 removal of tender lettering

rrjTooele · October 30, 2009, 09:43:25 PM

Not my best shot at creating a subject title, but it suffices. I have the 455 D&RGW version of the K-27 and would like to replace the lettering on the tender to Rio Grande Southern the way it looked before the accident and replacement of the cab. Does anyone know the best way to remove the lettering without damaging the black paint?

Thank you.

NarrowMinded · October 31, 2009, 12:56:15 AM

I use 91% alcohol on a q-tip works well but some time leaves a little haze, but I always spray a coat testors dullkote over my locos after I re-letter them and the haze has always vanished. I am sure you will get more suggestions

NM

charon · October 31, 2009, 09:45:55 AM

rrj,
Just go to search icon at the top of this page, click on it and then type in "remove lettering", lots of help.
Chuck

MAELLIS · October 31, 2009, 04:22:54 PM

Hello, I don't know if you have considered it, but to make a model of RGS 455 before the accident you will need a different cab and a different tender. Both were replaced after the accident when she rolled over after a runaway accident.

I have seen photos of 455 with the RGS "sunset herald" from before the crash. There is a lot of info. on the RGS on internet. I used an unlettered black K-27 with plough and bought a decal set to make my 455. There are probably other changes to make if you wanted to make an exact model.

RGS fan in Norway

MAELLIS · October 31, 2009, 04:32:43 PM

Looks like I was a bit quick off the mark there; I guess you have the green D&RGW version so the cab & tender will be in "before crash" style. I'd forgotten that this was one of the other options to make a pre-crash 455.
I really like the K-27 models. All in all the best locos I have.

rrjTooele · October 31, 2009, 09:52:36 PM

Sorry for not responding sooner. Thank you to everyone for your great responses. Yes, I do have a green-boilered K-27. Love it. I have Ferrell's book, Silver San Juan, The Rio Grande Southern, and while the loco may not have retained its green boiler jacket by the time it made it to the RGS from the D&RGW, who can tell?

I love this hobby and appreciate everyone's willingness to help. Happy railroading to all!

Kevin Strong · November 01, 2009, 01:46:50 PM

Well, I can say with absolutely certainty that my usual dousing of "Super Clean" degreaser doesn't make a blasted dent on the lettering. I just tried last night. I'll try the alcohol next, my can was empty. A haze I can live with. That's what weathering's for!

Later,

K

rrjTooele · November 02, 2009, 11:21:24 PM

I have already ordered decals through eBay, but I haven't touched the tender yet. I wanted to make sure I had the decals in hand before making the attempt. Please keep us posted concerning your success, or lack thereof, dare I say, Kevin. As always, thanks to everyone.

Kevin Strong · November 03, 2009, 01:55:28 PM

Tried the denatured alcohol. Alas, "lack thereof" in terms of success seems to have been more the case. It attacked the black paint as well as the white lettering, so I just bit the bullet, grabbed some super fine steel wool and had at the lettering, confident that I was going to have to repaint anyway.

I decided to be a bit lazy on the repaint, though, and just brush-painted ModelFlex "Flat Black" onto the tender and side of the cab. Note, "flat black" is something of a misnomer. This stuff dries nice and glossy. Don't know if it's a bad bottle, since I'm relatively new to using that line of paints. It laid down nice and flat, with only mild variations in finish that will easily be masked by the weathering. If I were to airbrush it on, it would have been very even. I'm going for a grungier look on this project, so I could get away with it.

The decals laid down very nicely on this, and the film is almost invisible. Once I finish, I'll post photos.

Later,

K

NarrowMinded · November 03, 2009, 11:18:21 PM

Wow, I surprized to here it attacked the paint. I have never had that happen. Maybe backmann or China has changed the paints they aree using.

Kevin Strong · November 04, 2009, 11:08:43 AM

I think much depends on the paint. My general course of action when painting is to just sand and repaint anyway, but in this case since the loco was already black, I figured I'd just try to see if I could remove the lettering. I did a 4-4-0 a few years ago (red SPC version) and the alcohol attacked that paint, too. That's when I tried the Super Clean degreaser, which worked great for the gold lettering on the loco.

BTW, I weathered the tender last night... looks like a million bucks! Any of the subtle variations in the brush-painted black vanished. (And it's not heavily weathered, either.) I know, I know... photos... All in due time.

Later,

K

rrjTooele · November 04, 2009, 08:55:17 PM

You took the words rightout of my mouth.

Thank you, Kevin. I'm looking forward to the photos.

gunrunner · November 07, 2009, 11:41:01 PM

on bachman big haulers i use dot-4 brake fluid
soak it on with a rag for awhile
wipe it off
maybe two-three applications
someone else here said ace hardware "oops"
i haven't tried it, look thru history

rrjTooele · November 08, 2009, 01:43:56 AM

Thank you. I'll look into your suggestions as well. As soon as I get the decals I ordered and have exercized what courage I have. I'll post the results.

Kevin, I'm still looking forward to your photos. Weathering a lciomotive is somthing that that I have not yet tried.

Kevin Strong · November 09, 2009, 03:04:11 PM

Ask and ye shall receive:

These shots show what I find most effective about using washes for weathering. From the side, the tender looks quite dull, flat, and dirty, but when viewed on an angle, the sheen of the paint beneath the dirt still shows through like it does on the prototype. Can't do that with dull coat.

More photos and a full account of the loco can be found here: http://tinyurl.com/TRRMikado10

Later,

K

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K-27 removal of tender lettering