Problem setting DCC on digital command

[KeithandTommy]

I just purchased the HO digital commander with the Santa Fe GP-40 and FT-A for my 8 year old on his birthday. We were able to program the GP-40 to an address but the FT-A unit would not change from # 3. We also have another DCC equiped locomotive and we tried to set an address for that one as well. . neither loco seemed to change from three. The instructions are a little vague and we cannot change either  address from the preprogrammed setting. Any ideas?

We also have 3 newer Bachmann diesels that I would lice to convert to DCC. I have seen 2 types of decoders that can be added. Which one do I need?

Thanks

Keith & Tommy

[Yampa Bob]

Hi Keith,

There should be a DVD provided that shows the procedure better than the manual. You might want to review the DVD if you have it. There is a slight error in the manual, but the DVD describes the correct procedure.

It has to do with "pressing the default address button and stop button at the same time", as stated in the manual. The correct way is to push and hold the default (3) first, then push the stop button, then release them both.  If you should happen to push the stop button before the default button, you will not be in program mode. If done correctly the light below the stop button should flash rapidly to indicate you are in program mode.  Push a new address button, the loco will move slightly, and the light will flash slowly, then push the stop button again to exit program mode.

Sometimes when first learning to change addresses, an improper sequence might address the loco to an unknown number, or certain other "glitches" caused by short circuits.  You might try the procedure at the bottom of page 3 to see if that works.

Always turn AC power to the EZ Command controller off, before placing or removing a DCC locomotive.  Easiest way is to buy a switch controlled power strip (computer surge protector or similar), plug the wall wart power supply into the power strip. Then you can conveniently turn power on or off. If you place a loco on a live track, the "make contact" surge or possible short can also cause address problems in the decoder.

It seems to be the consensus that it is actually easier and better to replace the DC diesel locomotives with ones factory equipped with decoders, than to upgrade the DC versions. Of course that is a decision only you can make.

Keep us posted on progress.

[the Bach-man]

Dear Keith,
Think "Ctrl, Alt, Delete" when changing addresses.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

[KeithandTommy]

 :)Thanks guys. I did watch the DVD and I was able to set the addresses correctly.  ;)You were right, the manual was wrong and the DVD was correct.
I know that it would be easier to buy new loco's but they are only 2-4 years old and he just got one for christmas. I am an electrician and I love tinkering with stuff . Are their any better instruction manuals other than the Bachman PDF file that shows the decoders? What is the difference between the standard Bachman decoder and the 8-pin. My 8 year old has 3 DCC locos and three standard locos, all are diesels. I have been doing some research on the forum and some people  seem to think that deisels are easier than steamers. I hope! I have the essential tools, multimeters and sodering pencil etc and I am familiar with AC control circuits so i am not intimidated by the wiring aspect. I just hate to not be able for him to use these diesels. Any way any help would be greatly appreciated.

Keith

[Yampa Bob]

Digitrax makes a small decoder, DZ123 for hard wiring. The size is only .36" X .55" X .13" so it might fit in the loco cab area. 

To remove the shells, pop off the fuel tank on the bottom to expose the screws. If there are more than 2 screws, remove only the outer ones that fasten the shell.

First, you have to isolate the motor completely. This may already be done, trace the existing wiring, from the pickup wipers to the motor. There will be a light board (PC board) with diodes that control lighting forward and reverse. The decoder will control the lights, so the board circuitry isn't needed.  

You might take the shell off your DCC equipped GP40 to see how it's wired. Bachmann DCC diesels have decoders that are integrated into the PC board.

On a DCC loco, the driver wheel pickup wiper wires go directly to the decoder. (red wire for right rail, black for left rail).  From the decoder, orange goes to motor plus, grey wire to motor minus.  Blue is headlight plus, white headlight minus.  For taillight, same blue wire is common (+) with yellow for (-). 

If the lights are on the board, cut the PC board traces and wire lights directly as above, or cut out the board center and leave the ends that hold the lights. You'll be able to figure out the best method. If the lights are LEDs, polarity is important.

Here is a link for the DZ123 decoder. It comes with a wiring diagram so you shouldn't have any problem. Thanks for letting us know your background, it helps when we know a member's skill level. We usually give a lot of detail, as others who read these threads might not have the same skills. 

http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=264&products_id=87643

[Jim Banner]

May I suggest clicking on the link below and scrolling down to the tenth post.  What I wrote there is a bit long, but should help you considerably.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,7797.0.html

The Digitrax DZ123 decoder is an excellent choice.  So is the DH123 if you have room for it.  They both include features that you will not be able to access with you E-Z Command but may well want to have in the future.  Another good source for these decoders is Tony's Train Exchange.  I have dealt with both Tony's and Caboose Hobbies; and found both to be friendly, helpful and reliable.

[KeithandTommy]

Thank you very much for your help guys. Its nice to know there are people out there willing to share thier knowledge with us newbies.

My son is really into this and I pulled out my old set from 1975 two years ago to get him started. We know have 7 new locos (3 DCC) over 30 freight and passenger cars and a large amount of EZ Track. My how things have changed since 1975.

I have removed the shells from all three of the locos and one doesn't have any visible wires. The pickups are springs that run right to the frame. I don't think that one will be converted.

Another is a Bachmann Spectrum F40PH Amtrack Phase II diesel that was a christmas gift this year. It has a circuit board on top of the frame. In reading some other posts, someone said the board will need to be cut. That doesn't sound good to me. I might have that unit done professionally.

The closest hobby shop is 50 miles away. Is it worth sending out to some of the people that advertise on some of these websites? Is that what the hobby shop will likely do?

We have a Bachman NY Central FT-A that I am sure I could do myself but the amtrack, withe the flashing strobes, I would rather have someone who knows what they are doing.

[KeithandTommy]

by the way, I did read your post earlier. Do you write installation manuals for a living?? Very simple english, easy to follow step by step instructions. I have printed it out and I will save it. Thank You

Keith

[Yampa Bob]

If you send the locos out to a store with competent technicians, such as Caboose Hobbies or Tony's Trains, you will pay about $40 an hour for the installation plus parts and shipping charges.  You can buy a new Bachmann DCC equipped diesel for less than $50. 

The light board isn't needed as the decoder will control the lights.  You could leave the board intact, and just unsolder the lights, resolder them to the appropriate wires from the decoder.  Cutting the board and leaving just the ends that hold the lights is easier than making new light mounting brackets.  Something to consider.

If you decide to upgrade some of your existing locos, let us know if you have any questions about the procedure. 

[KeithandTommy]

Bob

There are two strobe lights that flash and are connected to the board by a harness. If I bypass the board, these lights won't work,    or will they? I have a feeling that once the board is eliminated they won't. There is a harness at both ends for the front and rear lights as well as the strobe  harness in the middle. I know it would be easier to buy new, but my 7 year old may not understand that. he asks me every day how can we make these DCC. He has already drawn a layout. I just don't want to add a controller and lose some of the functions.
We live in western NY state and he wants to incorperate a replica of the Letchworth park trestle and Horseshoe curve in Altoona. That should be fun!!

Keith

[Yampa Bob]

Not knowing what your strobes look like, they might be just flashing LEDs, which can be wired directly.  They contain an integrated circuit (IC) inside the LED. These sites might give you some ideas.

http://www.elexp.com/opt_6bid.htm

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=flashing+leds

A local Radio Shack should also have these if you wanted to experiment.

[Jim Banner]

The Digitrax decoders mentioned above are both capable of flashing stobe lights.  One of the lighting outputs could be used for the headlight; the other lighting output could be used to flash the strobes simultaneous.  An alternative would be use flashing LEDs as Bob suggested.  They could either flash randomly or could flash together (I am not sure how the real ones flash - we don't have them on F40PHs in Canada.)  Another alternative would be to use a Digitrax DH163 or DH165 decoder, both of which have 6 function outputs.  Then you could have headlight, rear light, independent strobe lights and interior light in the cab.  Or if you used simultaneous strobe lights, you could also add ditch lights that flash alternately.  Tony's lists the DH163D decoder for $25.95.

Unfortunately, your E-Z Command will not program these effects.  Fortunately, there are hobby shops and model railroad clubs that will.  Up here in the small city of Saskatoon, the group I model with is only one of two or three clubs that offer that programming service for free.  Once programmed, all of these Digitrax decoders allow you to lock the programming in which prevents accidental reprogramming.  Then your F40PH could run just fine on your E-Z Command.

Your locomotive with no visible wires sounds like it could be a Bachmann split frame unit.  There are instructions for a specific Bachmann split frame locomotive at the link below.  The instructions for other Bachmann split frame units are very similar.

http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/dcc/tmaster/tmaster.html

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As a matter of fact, writing manuals was a part of my job.  I spent 30 years designing and building specialized scientific instruments and none of them would have been much use without a manual to tell the scientists how to operate them.  Now that I am retired, I enjoy helping people enjoy the hobby that has given me so much pleasure over a whole lot of years.