I have added battery and R/C to the Bachmann C-19, 3 truck shay, and Annie

[bcochran]

I will be working on a K-27, Climax and Heisler.  I was lucky to get these engines on Ebay.  All were new or like new.

I am using Airwire and Phoenix sound combinations. I like that because I am using an Airwire throttle and Phoenix Sound programing software.

When I first started with G scale I wanted battery R/C but was clueless as how to go about it. I am finding that much of the information on line in "how to's" is outdated.

So I read the downloadable manuals that are available on product websites. I studied the Bachmann wiring diagrams that you can get at their large scale parts site.

So now I see what space I have to play with, find the battery, Airewire-Phoenix Sound combination to use and learn what wires go where. It's not to complicated. The three truck shay was the hardest because I had to hard wire everything after taking the original board out of the engine. Other engines like the C-19 and K-27 have plug and play boards. 

The moral is if you want to add battery R/C but think it is too hard, study the available manuals on the product web sites and avoid "how to's" from long ago.

It is a learning curve but once you have success it makes you want to do it again.  Warning, it isn't cheap.  Airwire plus Phoenix Sound and batteries and charging cables comes to around $400. And you still need a throttle.  Programing software for Phoenix Sound is over $100 including the cable.

I am aware of other combinations of R/C and sound but I like my way and am not as much of a perfectionist as some are.

[Greg Elmassian]

The compromise between keeping the original board for wiring simplicity and removing it to get more space is a decision that can go either way.

There are pro's and con's to teach way.

By removing the board, you got a lot more space in the Shay for electronics and/or better speaker.

Not sure I would remove the board in the C-19, it's the best wired, best documented loco Bachmann makes.

The Annie depends, usually if you try to keep the flicker board.

There is really no wrong or right way, but if it works well for you, then indeed that was the right way for you!

Glad you rolled up your sleeves and got into it. Much better when you personally understand the install.

Greg

[bcochran]

Greg,

Thanks for the reply.  I consider it an honor coming from you.

So my C-19 and K-27 were plug and play so they were not problems.

My 3 truck shay did take some head scratching.  At first I tried using the Bachmann board in place but I could keep the wiring from breaking off the connections so I said to myself "rip it out" like I read on line from others. Most important was to label the wires. I still don't have the fire box flicker or cab light hooked up. Seems there are three wires for some things and it confused me so they are not connected yet.

My Annie was my first attempt. That was my learning curve.

I am 75 and I tell myself trying to solve the mystery of installing battery R/C is good brain exercise keeping from getting Alzheimer's.

I did a LGB 0-4-0 Porter by kit bashing a tender and filling it up with a battery, Airwire G4 and Phoenix p8 and a speaker.  A 4 pin connector goes to the engine for motor and headlight. The tender has a rear headlight since the engine and tender are used in both directions for a mining operations.

I have a Climax to do witch has DCC and sound. I assume I need to add an Airwire converter and battery in a trailing car. I have that riddle to solve and I have a Heisler which I assume will be similar to my shay.

Lastly I have Bachmann 4-4-0's and 2-6-0's to do but I can not find wiring diagrams for those.

I am researching your web site for information so thank you for the encouragement and information.

[Greg Elmassian]

Good for you, keep those gray cells going!

On the Climax, yes, I gather you are thinking the AirWire CONVRTR, and you should be able to re-use the dcc board, but the wiring will be a pain, since you would want a socket for the DCC board removed, and also you will have to connect a number of wires between the tender and the loco.

Now that I re-read your post, what you said makes the most sense, battery in tender, connect to CONVRTR, then you need to route the CONVRTR output to the loco, and feed it's outputs to the track input wiring... (and remove the track pickup contacts just to be sure).

That should be the simplest install.

I'll watch this forum for your progress, and best of luck!

Greg