Newbie- Night Before Christmas G locomotive

[tsur1]

Hi all,

Just for reference I am a totally newbie when it comes to model trains- this was my first purchase and I know very little- sorry.
I purchased the Night Before Christmas Large G scale train last November. I ran it under my Christmas tree with what I thought pretty much no issues, although the problem I'm having this year did happen right out of the box.
The train runs sporadically and then will just stop. I have checked all the connections- made sure every piece of track is locked in and all connectors are secure.
If I hold the locomotive and barely touch the track the wheels turn fast and normal like it should. When I set it down, or start with it in its normal position it is very hard to run. And now this year it just won't stay running- maybe will go around 1-3 times then shuts off. I tried it alone with no cars/caboose and also with the cars and same issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Loco Bill Canelos]

Hi,

From what you have posted so far it is hard to say what the problem is.  Can you say when the locomotive stops: Does the headlight stay on?  When the locomotive stops is there still power to the track, or does the power supply just shut down??  I ask this, because the power supply has an internal thermal circuit breaker and there have been cases where after the breaker shorts out frequently or overheats it gets weaker and weaker and eventually fails.   If the loco stops and will not run until til the breaker resets, then the problem is definitely the power supply.  The locomotive in the set rarely is the problem so other things must be ruled out.  If you have a way to use a different power supply/transformer try it and if the loco runs fine, you will know it is the power supply that is the problem.

Loco Bill

[tsur1]

Hi Bill,

Thanks so much for the reply!
More oberservations this morning:
The light flickers as it struggling along the track and when the loco stops, the light shuts off.
ALSO- 1.) it seems as if the middle left wheel is not touching the track when I put it on the track
2.) The back left wheel sparks from time to time as its going around
3.) if it stops- i can push down on the loco and it will start going around again- struggling of course.

thanks again,
T

[Loco Bill Canelos]

Hi T,

Based on the latest info, I feel that the problem may not be the power supply.  So first the middle drivers have no flanges so the locomotive can go around tighter curves, but this is not the problem.  So let go back to basics. First check to make sure the arrow under the front small truck is facing forward. Second make absolutely sure each section of track is tightly connected to each other and that there are no kinks. be sure to use those track clips between each section.  Next use a good quality track cleaner and thoroughly clean the track. You can use mineral spirits, or even WD-40. Do it with a soft cloth and clean until no more black residue appears on the cloth.  Then do the same with all the wheels on the loco.  I use a Q-tips saturated in the cleaner and do each wheel until the Q-tip is clean.  I say this because the sparking you are seeing is often due to dirty track and dirty wheels.  You may not see any dirt on the rails or wheels but clean them anyway. Try these things and post back with how it goes!  I know you said you did some of these things, but do it again.  Also we could do other tests if you had a voltmeter.  Also I am wondering if you have the track set up flat on the floor?

Hang in there.

Bill

[tsur1]

Thanks Bill!

I will do all of those things (clean the track and wheels) and report back tonight! And yes- the arrow is pointing in the right direction 

[tsur1]

Bill- one thing on the track "tightness". I am using an oval shape around the tree and I can't get a snug fit on ALL of the track. Yes, I am using the clips on every location where the tracks come together, but I can't get an "exact" or perfect fit on all of the connections. There is maybe a millimeter or two that I see black plastic.
It is on a flat hardwood floor

[tsur1]

Hi T,

Based on the latest info, I feel that the problem may not be the power supply.  So first the middle drivers have no flanges so the locomotive can go around tighter curves, but this is not the problem.  So let go back to basics. First check to make sure the arrow under the front small truck is facing forward. Second make absolutely sure each section of track is tightly connected to each other and that there are no kinks. be sure to use those track clips between each section.  Next use a good quality track cleaner and thoroughly clean the track. You can use mineral spirits, or even WD-40. Do it with a soft cloth and clean until no more black residue appears on the cloth.  Then do the same with all the wheels on the loco.  I use a Q-tips saturated in the cleaner and do each wheel until the Q-tip is clean.  I say this because the sparking you are seeing is often due to dirty track and dirty wheels.  You may not see any dirt on the rails or wheels but clean them anyway. Try these things and post back with how it goes!  I know you said you did some of these things, but do it again.  Also we could do other tests if you had a voltmeter.  Also I am wondering if you have the track set up flat on the floor?

Hang in there.

Bill

Ok I cleaned it up and it started out great for about 30 mins.
It's back to running- not struggling nearly as bad and definitely no more sparks- but after maybe 7-8 trips around the tree it's shutting back off. Light on train going off as well.

[Loco Bill Canelos]

Well T,

This is certainly frustrating, but the only other recommendation I can make from afar goes back to the power supply.  When the Locomotive shuts off  does it immediately start again when you press down on it like before, or do you have to wait a while before pressing down on it to get it to run.  When you first ran the locomotive and it made it laps where there places where it hesitated as it went around?

I have been basing my diagnosis on the fact that you bought this new last year, but I am wondering if you bought and older version of the set.

Here is how to identify the Chassis version of your locomotive:
Big Hauler 4-6-0 Chassis Version Identification  by Bill Canelos  Copyright 1995-2020 by Bill Canelos All rights reserved.               
Version 1  1988-1990  Battery Powered R/C Units                             
Version 2  1990-1994  Smooth Bottom Cover  You can turn drivers by hand and motor will turn.                           
Version 3  1994-1998  Smooth Bottom Cover You cannot turn the drivers by hand.                             
Version 4  1998-1999  Large wide hump dead center between the rear drivers on bottom cover.                             
Version 5  2000-Pres  3/8th inch wide hump offset between the rear drivers and a plastic lubrication plug the size of a dime to the rear of the hump.


Let me know what you have?  Also do you know anyone with a volt meter?  We could solve this quickly if you have or can get one. 

Bill

[tsur1]

Thanks Bill-

1.) It will immediately start back up again if I push down or slightly lift up- every time
2.) When I fist ran it there was no hesitation on the track
3.) Version 5 chassis
4.) I can get a volt meter, but probably not until tomorrow.

[prr22]

This voltage meter can be at your door overnight from Amazon.  I have no idea why the link is a whole paragraph. 

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Multimeter-MSR-R500-Electronic-Multimeters/dp/B01N9QW620/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=voltmeter&qid=1607037598&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRE9BRE5FVVpEUVhJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDk3MTg1MkdHVlNQM0MwMEVLSCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTUwMDIxMUFNSTRLUTIwWjM0OCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=