How to remove EZ track connectors

[EWB]

I am getting back into trains with my grandkids and we have built a simple layout with a few loops and some track spurs. I used EZ-Track since it looks simple and all my old track is 40 year Atlas stuff. I am trying to isolate the track segments but can't get the EZ track connectors off so I can use insulated connectors. I tried to just pull them off and wrecked a few pieces of track already. I read one comment about cutting at the end with a Dremel but I can't figure out why it is so difficult. Am I missing something or are they just not supposed to come off?

A PS - none of my old engines or cars will connect to a new Bachmann switch engine I bought for the spurs. The old couplers do not look anything like the new ones. Can I just replace the old ones?

Thx in advance

[the Bach-man]

Dear EWB,
The joiners are "permanent" but can be removed by firmly grasping the rail with a pair of pliers and the joiner with a needle nose and pulling hard!
You'll want to change your old couplers to magnetic knuckles like our EZ Mates.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

[bbmiroku]

EWB:
Bachmann uses a special type of railjoiner that hooks part of the last plastic tie so it's harder to lose or come apart.  So no, they're not supposed to come off by design.  When they made track without the molded base (non-EZ), you just pushed upwards from under the plastic and the tabs would disengage the joiner and it would slide off.  What you want to do is actually cut those tiny tabs with the dremel or a miter saw.  I'd suggest the miter saw for more control.  If you make an oopsie, you've already cut too far with power tools.  But with hand tools, you have a chance to realize what you're doing.

And for your couplers.
You have the X2F on the old ones, also known as horn-hook for their shape.  The new ones on your switcher are closer to the kind of knuckle couplers on real cars.  Between now and the time you're able to get knuckle couplers on your old equipment, you can make some changes to 'force' them together.  There are three sides to worry about on the X2F.  The horn, the piece that looks like a shoehorn; the hook, that short hook and squarish lump of plastic opposite the horn; and the pin protruding from the bottom.  Step one, take some rail nippers or the miter saw and chop off the pin.  Step two, nip off SOME of the end of the horn.  What you're left with should look slightly like a backwards question mark when viewed from above.  Now try to push your old car into the knuckle of the new switcher, filing down the hook slightly until it fits inside the knuckle without coming undone.
Ta-dah!  A stop-gap until you replace the old X2Fs with knuckles.

Good Luck!

[ACY]

You have the X2F on the old ones, also known as horn-hook for their shape.

Just for clarity that is not what he has, X2F or horn hook is only a type of HO coupler not N scale. What he has is actually Rapido couplers.

[bbmiroku]

Woops.  Sorry.  Hmm... Can't think of a way to modify the Rapido couplers.

[plas man]

I thought Bachmann sold knuckle replacements for Rapido's  , or try ones made by Red Caboose .

[Len]

The Bachmann "Short T-shank" is shown as discontinued in the parts listing.

For most Rapido coupler conversions the Micro-Trains #1028 or #1029 will work. Or the whole truck could be changed out for trucks with metal wheels and knuckle couplers.

Len

[James in FL]

Take a small flat blade screwdriver and put it down in the joiner where the rail would fit.
And twist it, to open up the joiner, yes this will destroy said joiner.
Once you have opened it up wide, it is possible to gently work the joiner from the rail with a back and forth motion (side to side) with needle nose pliers.
Be careful not to pull the rail from the "spikes" on the ties.
If you're running on 11.25r or better, short shank couplers will work in most cases.
If the wheelsets roll very freely in their trucks a coupler swap maybe all that is necessary.
If they don't, consider changing the trucks with the couplers (as one unit) as well, as Len suggests.

Good luck