Turnout confusion

[bearsports]

New to the hobby and want to expand layout by adding 2 to 4 turnouts but I am confused because there are three right and three left turnouts to choose from (i.e., right turnouts, product numbers 44860, 44862, 44864).  I was hoping that someone could tell me the difference between the 3 choices?

Thank you

[Mike C]

44860 and 44862 are the same, but 44862 has a remote control. 44864 is a #4 switch. It has a sharper curve than the other two....Mike

[ftauss]

New to the hobby and want to expand layout by adding 2 to 4 turnouts but I am confused because there are three right and three left turnouts to choose from (i.e., right turnouts, product numbers 44860, 44862, 44864).  I was hoping that someone could tell me the difference between the 3 choices?

Thank you

A little more detail for you. Bachmann makes 3 turnout types in left and right.

1) a curved turnout, 11.25 radius curve, the first one they made.
2) #4
3) #6

The #4 and # 6 are more like prototype turnouts in that the diverging rails are straight. The numbers (4 and 6) indicate how many inches the diverging track has to extend before it is 1 inch away from the straight track. With the #4 it is 1 inch away after 4 inches, the #6 1 inch away after 6 inches from the frog which is the point where the track starts to diverge.

The curved turnout is meant to replace an 11.25" curve in a starter layout, it fits exactly.

The larger the number the more gradual the tracks diverge, all of the engines should work fine on the #6 and probably all but the longest will work on #4. The 11.25" turnout has the same weakness as 11.25" curves plenty of engines will not work well with them.

The 11.25" can use a 11.25" curve to turn the track so a to have parallel tracks for a siding,  etc.

The #4 and #6 include a short curve that will do the same thing curve enough to bring the tracks parallel.

Unless you are using 4 axle diesels or smaller and you do not use steamers I would pass on the 11.25. General rule of thumb, #4 for yards/sidings #6 for mainline switches, though you can also use the #6 for yards if you have enough room, they are long.

I have a small pile of the curved turnouts, but I am going to relegate them to a yard setting and arrange them, to avoid the deadly S curves. I have already started purchasing #4 and #6 turnouts, crossovers and just ordered some wyes tonight. I will only use these in the future.

On the bottom of the card is a colored strip which will list the type of turnout, 11.25 curved left or right, #4 left or right, #6 left or right.

One more thing. The older 11.25" curves like the ones I have are power routing. What this means is the power only is allowed to travel in the direction the switch is thrown. Meaning the power has to be on the point (single track) side. This is handy for temporary setups to park an engine. I don't know what they are doing with the new 11.25 but the #4s, #6s, the crossovers and the wye are DCC friendly, which means they do not rout power. Power is present continuously to entire track piece. Well except for the crossover which has built in insulation to avoid shorts.

Is your set DCC or DC?

You'll have more questions. Ask away.