How to handle a loop back?

[jimdavis88]

I'm new to RR'ing and am planning a G scale layout in my basement to be a shelf mount next to the ceiling. The room is 42" x 12'. One of the 42' walls is not where I want a train track so I'm thinking about using the same track on the other 42' wall for running the train in both directions. That means I need some type of switch to make a loop back. Are there automatic switches to do this or any other type of switch that you would recommend? Thanks, Jim

[Kevin Strong]

You have a few options. The simplest is to just use a dogbone along the one wall (two tracks running side-by-side. That'll save you the trouble of switches and automation, which--in a display set-up like you're describing may be advantageous. Failing that, though, there are a number of products that will automate reverse loop operations. I just did a write-up of this in the December 2012 issue of Garden Railways.

Later,

K

[Chuck N]

I strongly support Kevin's suggestion of having a separate return track.  Without gaps, insulated rail joiners and a way to change polarity on the track return loops will not work.  First, you end up with a dead short.  Follow the rail around.  The outside rail becomes the inside rail and vicsia versa, therefore the dead short.  

Chuck

PS Many many years ago I had an HOn3 setup with a reversing loop at each end.  I had a toggle (DPDT) switch that I used manually to reverse the polarity.  There are automatic setups now available, most require a magnet on the bottom of the locomotive to actuate the polarity switch.

Life is a lot simpler with a separate return track. 

If you go with battery operation you do not need to worry about the short. Reversing loops are then not a problem.