spectrum 4-4-0

[bob kaplan]

i have the spectrum 2-6-0 which for the most part is a fine running engine.   But since i use LGB's 8 foot diameter track, the center driver wheel can sometimes drop below the railhead....especially at the switches.  is there a similar problem with the 4-4-0 using this diameter track?   Thanks.

[Sleeping Bear]

   I don't have either of these so I cant say for sure,but it seems to me that since your problem is with the "center" driver, and the 4-4-0 has no center driver, that there shouldn't be an issue with it dropping below the rail head,as all drivers should be flanged.....If I am wrong I am sure we will find out shortly.....


  Hope this is some help.....Later all.....S.B.

[bob kaplan]

thank you S.B.   i was thinking along the same lines....but the wheel base is kind of long on that engine too.....so just wondering if might have caused any other problems...
bob

[Udo]

Hello Bob,
I have both the locos and run them on LGB R3.
They both run fine (the Mogul needed some modification).
The American (4-4-0) does not have any problem.
The Mogul has some small pins between the flangeless driver wheels which should guide this axle.
In the turnouts, these pins make problems. I removed them and installed a plate, fixed on the gear box, which just fits between the frame, so the axle cannot move to the side any more. I also eliminated the side movability on the two other axles.
Now my Mogul also runs fine over the turnouts.
Udo from China

[bob kaplan]

Udo,
   Thanks for the suggestions.  It is appreciated....i sometimes wish these engines had a bit more modern appearance....heck then they will be nice along side the c-19 coming along in a while and even the Connie and Mikado...

[Loco Bill Canelos]

Bob they (4-4-0 and 2-6-0) are definitely way older than the later models, fluted domes, oil burning headlights. Most are wood burners except for the 4-6-0 I think.  They also have balloon or diamond stacks. I can't remember when these features dis appeared.  Maybe Kevin has that info.  The more modern C & the K and Connie all have the modern headlights and domes and appliances.

You could try updating them like some have.

Have fun

[Kevin Strong]

There was very little visually different between a wood- and coal-burning loco of this era except the stack, though many diamond stack types were used on both coal- and wood-burning locos as well. If a loco were converted from wood to coal, you may not see any physical change to the loco, or maybe they'd change the stack. It's also probable that if they added a straight stack, they'd extend the smokebox, as this was purported to improve draft with the spark arrestor in the smokebox instead of on the stack. It would be rare for a loco to get new domes, cab, or tender unless there was a particular reason, such as a wreck, crew comfort, or inadequate fuel supply in the original tender.

That being said, there were minor cosmetic changes made through a loco's life in response to changing safety rules and the like. After the turn of the century, you'd see a second air pump and additional reservoirs to handle the air brakes on the train as well as just the locomotive. That's why you'll see air tanks on top of tenders, or as the C&S was known for, over the boiler. Basically, the shop guys put them wherever they could fit 'em. When the locos were this small, they had to get creative. Towards the 20s, you'd see generators and electric lights replace the older-style headlights, though it was also not uncommon to simply convert those lights to electricity. (Or, simply fasten a car headlight casing in front of the old box headlight as on one Tuscarora Valley locomotive. Not very elegant, but serviceable.) You may or may not have a back-up light on the tender, depending largely on general railroad practice.

Most of these mods are easy enough for the modeler to add to the loco, and parts can be found from Trackside, Ozark, etc., though I agree, I'd love to see Bachmann "update" these locos. (Or, just release the On30 2-6-0 in 1:20.3)

Udo, interesting thought simply bracing the motor block using a plate in lieu of the pin-holder. I've always removed that, and cut thin disks of styrene tubing to go between the eccentrics and bearing blocks to keep things in place. Your way seems much simpler.

BTW, has anyone else noticed that the center (blind) drivers on the 2-6-0 are spaced a bit farther apart than the flanged ones? I've got two sets of 2-6-0 drivers here, and both of them are wider by about 1/16". My guess is that this is to help keep the wheels on top of the railhead when going around curves. (It must work.) I never really noticed it until I began working on my 2-6-0, trying to find the cause of a problematic bind in the drive.

Later,

K

[bob kaplan]

Thank you all.....interesting "stuff" you have provided.   Always nice to learn a bit more and hear someone's ideas.
  b

[Udo]

Hello Kevin,
you are right, the blind drivers have more space to the sides than the others.
Keeping the wheels on the rail head only works in this case, when you keep the pins.
Without the pins (which make problems in turnouts), the space will leed to the contrary result. The wheel will fall down on the inside of the curve!
Threfore, I made the space close to "0". This has no problem on LGB R3.
Udo