I've designed the controller to let me actuate the uncoupler solenoids.  This is a video of the daughter board I'll use with my RC.  I won't install ditch lights but rather just use the uncoupling function.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ow7eC54hxak

I've tested with a relay that can be easily located under the locomotive:
http://dx.com/p/arduino-5v-relay-module-blue-black-121354

Now to find solenoids that I can mount to actuate the cut levers.

They are the bars that go across the front and back of the loco that have a chain going to each coupler.  Actually it's called a "cut lever" which pulls up the "locking pin" per:  http://www.sdrm.org/faqs/couplers/  Your question made me interested in what was really called.  

I thought I would post a couple videos of my little battery power Bachmann Davenport using my radio control, 5 AA li-ions, and a phoenix P8 with speaker all under the hood.  I'm going to add two solenoids to control the couplers next.  I'll use the hand bars as they work so smoothly it should be pretty easy.  The relays to drive the solenoids will be hung under the loco, there is a limit as to how much can be crammed under the hood.

Quick run to see/hear it operate:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFIVWewpnZ8

The end shows a view of the inside, like most modern cars, not much room:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZ-f_ez91Vg

russ

That is a beautiful Bowker (not sure if Baldwin).  I would buy that in a heartbeat!  My father gave me an HO scale V&T Bowker for Christmas many years ago. 
http://www.ho-scaletrains.net/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/ahm_bowker_steam_engine_virginia_truckee.jpg

Where do the batteries and radio control fit?  That's a bit more of an electronics challenge than most!

Dave,

I emailed you a few notes.  At lower height you can use 2" PVC.  Here are some pictures of the completed southern loop and a siding I added.

Note the 2" PVC supports for the very short risers:




A far view of the 2" PVC supports on the southern loop:


Good luck, looking forward to your pictures as you progress,

russ

On mine the gear box was fine, it was the drive gear on the axle that had a crack.  If you have removed the gear box at one time to check, make sure that you line up the two seals/bearings with the gear box or it won't hold in place.  Those are on each side of the gear on the axle.

Bought a post driver that works perfectly for 3" PVC which is actually about 3 1/2" outside diameter.  Here is a link.  It makes pounding them into the ground VERY easy!

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_988888_988888

Hope this helps anyone thinking of trying this.

russ

No problem, I'll post more pics as I work on the other end's loop.  I haven't had it up long, only 2 weeks.  I'm in Florida where I need not worry about freezing.  There is no wobbling I can detect when the locomotives are running.  It is of course possible to move the posts by hand.  I may fill the long ones with Quickrete to reduce shake even more.  For the filled ones I will need to cap them to keep water from accumulating on top of the concrete.  I put the pipe into the ground using a 2x4 and a 2 pound hammer.  Lots of elbow grease.  That was the hardest part so far!

I don't know how well the PVC piping would hold up in winter but it is schedule 40 and fairly thick.  If it was extremely cold and one was hit with a hammer, it might shatter but I really don't know.  As to freezing a column of water in the pipe I would think it would need to be very full of water.  If just the bottom had water I don't think a freeze would damage it.

Our only concern in FL is mosquitoes nesting in the water that might breed in the pipe!  

good luck,

russ

I couldn't anchor to my fence so my RR is free standing.  It is still under construction but here are some pictures of what I am doing:









The supports are 3" schedule 40 PVC with reducers down to 2" PVC.  The segments are made from 2 1/2" wide Tuff Board found at Home Depot.  I'm using composite decking as the rungs of the ladder, I now space the rungs 12" apart rather than the 6" in the photo.  While it sounds like you won't want to do this for your entire RR it might be good for a few segments.  I have some freestanding lengths that are 5' between supports, no bending at all.  The 3" supports are burried up to 2 feet deep into the ground for the tallest sections.

Right now I only have that straight segment with the loop on the one end.  Much more to do.  Total cost for all materials in the pictures (except the track and locos) was $250.  I hope to get much more done on the other end so I can run locos continuously soon.

The pics look very nice.  Does the drive train come with all the side rods and valve gear?  Beautiful engine!

Barry, I IMed you with my email.  I'm still keeping my eye out for a cheap 4-6-0 to convert.

You give me renewed interest in a 4-6-0!  I love my Bachmann 2-8-0 (after fixing cracked drive gear with a delrin from NWSL).  When I pick up a cheap 4-6-0 I will convert to a BBT drive to run "forever".

Quote from: NarrowMinded on June 20, 2010, 05:42:19 PM
Something about those loco's bring sports cars to mind.

NM

Probably the roar of the exhaust!

Which one are you thinking about.  The 2-8-0, Mogul, 4-4-0 and a few others say DCC ready but that means screw terminals and a diagram that shows you how to connect a Lenz DCC controller typically in the boiler.

If you have a K27 or a Mallet then they have the plug which a receiver can plug into with some nuances such as lighting.  There are pictures of most of the PNP locos out there on the web.

Here is a link to where you can find an install guide I wrote for the 2-8-0. 
http://www.cabcommand.com/Tips_and_Tricks.html
Most of the information would apply to any RC system.  Installation is very similar for the 2-6-0 and 4-4-0.  I love all of these and have renewed interest in narrow gauge!