All,

    Any problems with replacing the headlights on a HO 28-2 loco.  I burned out both front and rear LEDS when i forgot to add resisters to the output lines from the decoder.  It is for the B&O 4508 Mikado.  The front boiler door seems easy to remove to gain access to the headlight.  I assume I can just paint over the loco number on the  replacement headlight.

Roger

Thanks for the heads up Mr Bachmann.  They suggested I order the whole drive train and I managed to installed it successfully.

Roger

So I ordered a single tire for a K4 loco and it is bigger thatn the one I took out.  Alos the drive connections are different.

Bachmann, do we have a resolution for my problem?  The screw on the side has stripped off inside the hub.  this is a center gear setup.  any other loco I can order the drive train for this one?

Roger

All,

    Stripped off the small bolt of one of my drive wheels, the rear one.  This is a DCC Sound Value Light Pacific B&O #5213.  Item Number 52801.

    The parts list that came with it shows the front wheel (which should be same as rear wheel) with a part number of H528X_00C01x4.  That number does not come up in the search.

    Can I use one from the K4 series?  Tire seems to be 21mm.

Roger

Jon,

    You are right.  The loco is a Mikado.  Memory going big time.   Made approperate changes.

    Smokbox is filled with added lead weight so that is done.  Will add frog snot to rear driver instead to bring it up rear a little.

    Trouble area is my helix I have been working on.  adding another level as locos were having trouble climbing exisiting 2.4% grade.  Now grade is 2.23%. Using 11/16 plywood for ramp and it not the best.  A little warping and imperfect track work.  What I am going to do is lift up the outside edge of problem track with styrene strips so front driver wheel does not climb over rail.   Was surprised at how much the outside driver wheels did not ride the rails on flat surface.

Roger

All,

   Got a 2-8-2 Mikado and noticed it had a tendency to derail on curves.  Found that the loco rocks over the main driver.  It just doesnt sit flat on the track.  The outside drivers dont have springs pressing down.  Is this normal for this loco?

Roger

All,

    Need correct two pin plug coming out of loco going to tender.  Wires are broken.

    For Spectrum item #54101 Pennsylvania 3750.

    I've order Universal plug from Bachman before but was too small.  Got a white plug.  Mine is orange.

    Order on ebay another 8 position plug to replace the wires with.  Again too small!  Bachmann DCC Tether (loco-tender) 6-Pin Plug (HO Universal) Connie-10548

     Is there any plugs you guys know about I can use?

Roger

Grumpy,

     I buy those LED strips by the reel.  Use them in my buildings and I've used them in my passenger cars.  The Passenger cars need a small voltage regulator and a 470UF capacitor to even out the flickering.

Roger

Jonathan,

     Yep, that looks like my trucks too.  Going to remove the warsher and copper contact and sand down with fine grit to get a better contact surface.

      Seems this loco is a returned loco as I found the screws loose on that bottom plastic piece that presses up on the driver wheels.  After tightening them up loco did run a little better.  Got the loco off of Ebay from a resaller.  Listed as new.

     Next thing to do is try to pry off smoke box lid so I an add lead weights.  Without the frog snot loco can only pull two passenger cars up my helix.

Roger

Jonathan,

     Appears the the drivers are a little warped.  Need to find a replacement.  Dont see one under the Bachmann parts list for this loco.   

Roger

Jonathan,

     Need to ad weight to smok box area next.  Loco seems too light up front after I add the frog snot to back two drivers.  I've seen the front driver derail for some reason.  And traction still poor.

     You have photo of underside of tender?  I didn't see one.  My copper contact is sitting under the screw head on both trucks.  I have to tighten them down to get proper electrical connection else if loose poor to no connection.  Loco seems to depend on tender wheels for rail pick up.  I've got a keep alive on my decoder and I've seen loco stop several times from bad rail piclups.  If I tighten tender truck screws that stops tender trucks from pivoting properly.  i think next I'll have to solder a wire to those wheel pickoffs and hook into the track power leads going to the decoder.

    The reason I asked about your tender underside as my Lt Pacific tender looks different.  The copper pickoff is just sitting on top of screw and making good electictical contact.

Roger

Jon,

    Did your loco come with rubber tires?   Mine did not have any and will not pull many cars.  Putting on frog snot now.

Roger

Jonathan,

     Thanks for the link.   You have same loco as mine.  Now I've got something to go on.  Will open up tender and put in resisters.  I usually use 3.3K.  Even those keep the LEDs bright.

      I did the same thing to my 4-6-2 Lt Pacific a month ago.  Using those sound value boards in my old 0-6-0 switchers that have the sloping tender.

      Will have to add more lead weight to rear of tender where I had to remove that big weight that was in it.  Tender light in the tail.

      Upon first trial run of loco the tender kept derailing.  The screws holding the tender trucks on were too tight.  Lossened and all was good.

      What does the 'Q-3" under your cab loco number mean?

Roger

All,

    Got an Ho Mikado I was installing a Tsunami 2 decoder in and forgot to add the dropping resisters.   I assume both are blown as they dont come on.

    Don't see any reference on the LED parts in the breakdown parts catalog for the Mikado.  I think I might be able to do the headlight, but how involved is the tail light?

    Any part numbers?

Roger

All,

    Had my loco fall off the shelf and broke the cow catcher.  I see that the two replacement cow catchers are SOLD OUT.  Any idea if parts will be available later or is there an alternative replacement?

Roger