Thanks everyone for your responses, I think I have discovered that the drive gears are out of round. Although 20 years in the box it has only run about 20 minutes. As Bachmann advertise lifetime guarantee I think I should return it to Bachmann and see what comes from it. I believe you mail it back with $10.00 enclosed. Can Bach-Man advise me on this? H.

Hi Rich, I think I bought it around 1990, it has very limited running time. The motor seems OK but the grinding cause a higher power drain from the way it runs. Just want to know if I can get into the gearing of the trucks. from your recommended web site s it is hard to know which one it is as they both look the same to me. Any help would be much appreciated. H

I have an older GP30 that has been converted to DCC. Unfortunatly it runs like a tank, groaning and grinding it's way along. I think the problem could be in the trucks and the iner mechanism. Is there anyway I can fix this problem? How do I tear the trucks apart? Would love to have a smooth running machine! Thanks HJM

I have an older Proto 2000 i think it is an FA2. It stopped running, took the shell off and discovered a blue wire that I believe should be attached to the motor had broken off. I'm not sure where it should be soldered in or how one pulls the chassie apart to search the underside of the motor. Can anyone lend a word of advise on how to rectify the prob? H. 28 views and no suggestion, can anyone help with an answer please.

THANK YOU JIM, it was a simple fix, all seems well. Thank you Nathan for your suggestion but Jim's idea was straight forward and it works.

I am have reverse loop within a reverse loop and use a reversing module on each loop. I am shorting out at the switch point of the inner loop each time the polarity should be changing.  Thing seem to run okay providing the polarity of the outer loop remains the same. Can anyone offer some help on this situation?

I have an operating reverse loop using an MRC reversing module. I have created another reverse loop within this main loop. Can I add another module at the point of polarity conflict or must I find another solution?

Thanks again Jim. The trainmaster has been apart a few times and was supposed to have been clean last trip to the hobby shop, Mmmmm! Guess I'll have to pull it apart again and see if things are better when I put it back together.

Solved my problem by switching back to a basic MRC reverse module. Hooked it up and it was working in a matter of two minutes. Still wish I knew what my problem was with the PS-AR but will have to be satisfied with what works I guess. Thanks you Jim, Tim and Chris for your help in trying to solve my problem.

Both of these engines seem to require excess current to run. Each time I power up these engines with my NCE Power Pro the CP6 Circuit Protector lights up. I run other engines with no problem on the same system. Each engine is DCC equipt with an NCE D13SR decoder. Both of the engines in question are of 90's vintage as are most of my engines.

Tim/Jim - What do you think about what Chris said above? H.

Chris, I'm a bit thick when it comes to this stuff. Can you explain step by step hook up for your PSX-AR. bus to terminal??? Are you using a separate booster for power??

Tim/Jim I so appreciate your help in trying to solve my problem. So I tried the quarter trick before the Y and after the Y, each time the system shorted out. I tried the 12 volt light and it shut off as soon as the first set of trucks hit the gap.  Next? Thank you again. H.

Tim, I followed your last instructions re a jumper wire at J6, pts1&2. I'm still shorting out. So here I go again: I have a Y switch, atlas code 100 into the reverse loop. I have gaped beyond the switch on each track leading from the Y. I have connected my input pts before the Y and the output pts beyond the gap on the return side of the loop. I have connected my buss line for the district (maybe this is creating the problem???) to my input wires thinking this would power things up replacing a booster. Is a booster my only alternative? Probably shouldn"t put this module in the hands of a novice. Hugh

Thanks Tim, I'm thinking that I am in too deep. How do you change the J6 jumper if this is required?? H