I got side tracked about 1-2 years ago when I was working on my Big Hauler. Here's whats up:
  I purchased a loco chassis when, they were on sale, that has the upgrade for the anniversary model...metal side rods etc.. I was installing DCC in the new chassis and sound but never could get them BOTH to work. They would work for about a minute or two and then just the DCC would work. Thats where I stopped and had to abandon my efforts. So, now I think I can get back into it all. I have the DCC module installed and it works great. Now as far as the sound module goes, here is what I want to do. I want to install the sound module in the tender. I am going to use the speaker that is in the tender and the battery compartment to keep the sound going when the tender isnt moving. Since there is only TWO rails and not three like on the "O" scales, I have a magnet and pickup for on a left wheel that I will install. The tender will have sound like most or some of the "O" scale tenders have and will be towed behind the engine. I tried installing everything in the engine and running the wires from the engine to the tender to the speaker, but I may have burned up one module in the past. I am eliminating the connection between engine and tender. Does this sound like I am on the right track?  

That's strange. You can purchase the ones for Diesels but not for steamers. Strange.

So this is the one that has the CHUFFING along with the bell and whistle? I saw a Williams steamer on You Tube with one that has the chuffing.

I see a lot of the True Blast Plus sound units for diesels. I go on You Tube and see some steam engines that have the one for steamers but I dont see any listed on Bachmann trains for sale. I dont see any for sale anywhere period. I left a message for the service dept here at Bachmann. Anyone know why the steamer ones are soooo hard get?? Any part numbers?

Hey Bill,
   I think this is what I am going to do for now. I see there is a kit that Bachmann carries with the plugs and harnesses like you said. It also comes with a new PCB board. The board in mine is an older revision. Dont know if it will sound any different or better but it will have all the parts I need. My tender does not have a light on the back but I do have a light on my other one. I dont need a light on the one I am working on and I want to keep the body of the tender with the same RR name. Besides, Bachmann is OUT of the tender assembly I would order with it all assembled.
   Thanks for all your help! I will let you know how things go!

Jim R

 Hey guys! I have a Silverado set and thought I would upgrade the bottom half of the engine with the Anniversary frame and chassis with the metal side rods. Got it today BUT I notice on the back of the unit there are TWO connectors and a switch. My engine only has ONE connector and a switch. My tender only has one  connector. If I plug the tender into either connector on the new engine and fire them up, all I get is a loud screech from the tender speaker. Do I need to purchase one of the newer tenders that has two connections? I understand the two connectors on the new engine, one is for sound and one it for lights? Which is which?

    Lastly, I am NOT a happy camper with Bachmann. The new Anniversary frame and chassis arrived DAMAGED! No damage to the outer shipping carton, but the cardboard liner holding the engine was DAMAGED. Front wheel axle was busted in half. No damage in transit. It had to be pulled off the shelf broken & packaged that way.. Someone should pay attention to their job.

Sorry I rant on, but I was eagerly awaiting for this part.

Those will work with the 6volt battery under the car?

Good afternoon Bill! I have been looking at resistors. Not sure what to get. I am attaching a link to Ebay. Wanting to know if these would be the ones to use.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1K-1000-ohm-1-4-watt-0-25W-5-carbon-film-CF-resistors-50pcs-US-SELLER-/251944392611?hash=item3aa90e57a3:g:BDUAAOSwymxVRTBz

I found the warm white LEDS, 5mm. They have a range of 2.5v to 3.v

Thanks for your help.

Thanks Loco Bill. I had bought some new trucks that were for sale on Ebay. They have the copper strips that rub against the wheels, but after reading posts about how the drag against the wheels would put more of a stress on the engine gears, I decided not to do that. Converting to LED bulbs and running off the battery is ok with me. Its not like I am going to run them 24 hours a day.
   Correct me if I am wrong. One of the leads on the led bulbs is longer than the other. Is that the positive one? I am not an electrician. I did convert one of these trainsets some years ago but I had the paperwork back then and now I don't and I cant remember how it all was done. Do I just need one resister wired in the positive line? Thanks for your response.

   Its been some time that I have been on here. I am looking for information for the J & S passenger cars. Some years ago I was looking for info on how to take the incandescent lights OUT of the passenger cars and replace them with LED lights. I cant find the instructions any more and have been looking online for maybe a KIT. I would have thought someone or someplace would have made a kit by now but I cant find any. I would like to know what all I need to hook up the LEDS to the 9v battery under the car. What volt should the LEDs be? I know a resister needs to be added. I did this once some years ago (2009?) and it worked out good. Anyone got an idea where to get instructions and maybe a parts list?

Thanks!!

   So what about a True Blast II Plus for a steam locomotive? Are there any available for them??

  So here is an update on improving the sound in a Williams tender:

I removed the True Blast II sound module and replaced it with one from ERR, adding a chuff sound to the bell & whistle with no problems. Both modules are about the same size. Next was the speaker. The Williams speaker is 2" in dia...8ohm 5w. The new speaker from ERR is 1-1/2" dia...8 ohm 2w. I tried both and they both seem to have good sound, hard to tell any difference. I wish the tender frame had holes in it for placement of the speaker facing downward, but it doesn't. The body of the tender is die cast & the coal load is made pretty heavy. I have the volume turned up all the way and it sounds good. Adding the reed sw was a bit of a problem. The backs of the wheels are not flat, they have a little bit of a concave to them. I had to place the magnet right next to the axle to get it to lay flat. The reed sw mtg was a problem as there isn't too much to choose from as far as a good mt, but I figured it out. The new sound module comes with the optional 9v battery plugin which I am using also. Now just to shorten wires and finalize things and give it one more test run before putting the body back on.
    If anyone has any additional comments for tweeking anything, please feel free to let me know! Your help is greatly appreciated.

   So what about a True Blast Plus for a steamer? Do you have a link for those?

Thanks for the reply. I took the body off the tender and it was not what I expected. The only thing inside the tender is the True Blast II sound module and the speaker. Two wires go from the speaker to the sound module. Each truck has a center rail  roller AND a wire from the top of each truck. The black wire from the sound module & the black wire from the top of the front truck and the black wire from the center rail roller all go together with a wire nut. The black wire from the top of the rear truck and the black wire from the center rail roller and the RED wire from the sound module all go together with another wire nut. There are no wires between the engine and the tender. So is the reversing board inside the engine? If so I guess I can just swap the speakers and sound modules in the tender and add the magnet and the reed switch and connect the two wires  to the new sound module.
   The NEW True Blast Plus. Is that available for steam engines also? Bachmann seems to have deleted a lot of things from their online catalog or they just have not updated anything in a long long time. I did a search for the new Plus module and all I found was the old one with just the bell and  whistle.

Hi to everyone!
   I have been out of the loop for awhile and am getting back into my trains. Here is what I have:

Williams Southern Crescent Semi- Scale Hudson Engine & Tender Set, Cab# 1401. This has the True Blast II Digital Whistle & bell. I want to upgrade it to the Electric Railroad's sound kit with Railsounds. Question is: Will I have any problems with the reverse board that is in the tender. Does the engine get its power from the coupler between the engine & tender? I plan to take out the True Blast II module & speaker & replace it with the Electric Railroads components.
    I see there is some talk about the True Blast II Plus. Enlighten me on that as well. Thanks for any info anyone can share.