Last week I sent a non-working Dynamis to be repaired or replaced. Bachmann received it Wednesday at 2:06 pm, left at the receiver and signed by Murray. And now no one at Bachmann can tell give me updates. If it was a bad turnout or a bad power supply I would say forget it, but this is a $240 piece of equipment that is lost! Holy Cow!

I did read the manual, thank you very much.

But the manual was weak, thanks Bachmann.

It was new so I had the manual. I said it was working for a couple of days and then it quit. I never changed the channels manually or physically so that shouldn't have been an issue.

Model railroading can be a challenge, people come to this forum for tips, advice and hints. I think some of you can be more tolerant, especially for people just starting, without new people coming in the hobby can die.

How do I check for the same channel?

I received the EZ Command Dynamis from Mrs. Claus for Christmas. It worked for a couple of days and then it quit working.

The Command Station green light flashes quickly. I've changed batteries on the handheld, my old DCC command works so I know I don't have a wring or track problem.  I did a factory reset on the handset. On the handset, the Infra-red signal shows no bars. I think I have a bad command station but I'm not sure.

Can anyone offer any suggestions or help?

I called Bachmann on Friday, Jan 2nd and they are closed for the holidays! Are you kidding me!!! It's January 2nd and they are closed for the holidays! Holy Cow!

Yes, I'm serious. If I unplug my DCC controller the locomotives would default back to address 3.

The first time it happened I thought I broke it. I reprogrammed the address and unplugged the controller and it did it again. So now I never unplug the controller and the addresses stay 1 and 2.

Jimmy

The only thing you have to get is a DCC Controller, I recommend the Bachmann E-Z Command DCC Controller System, about $120 or so. But I have 3 transformers. One for my DCC, one for my lights and a third one for my switches or turnouts.

Most DCC locomotives come assigned to address 3, so the first thing I recommend is to change the address, and most people use the last number on the locomotive. The Bachmann E-Z Command DCC allows up to 9 DCC addresses, the 10th address can be used to run DC locomotives.

Never leave a DC locomotive on the rails if it's not running, supposedly the engine can burn up.

Another thing I recommend do not turn off the Bachmann E-Z Command DCC as this will lose the new address. Let's say the last number on the locomotive is "2", and you program the DCC controller to run your locomotive on 2, if you turn off the DCC controller, the locomotive will default back to 3 and you will have to reprogram again.

I made the switch to DCC last Christmas and after a few growing pains I love it. It's really cool and easy to have multiple engines running at the same time.

Good luck, I hope this helps.

Jimmy

That's really cool, great job!

I used a lot of plaster cloth too. Did you use risers?
My suggestion you may need a small leveler and go about 12 inches a time and either raise the rails in low spots or shave some using a knife or file in the high spots.

Good luck.

I received the following from a Woodland Scenics representative, ...
"You could tint your Realistic Water or other water products with blue food coloring or powder RIT dye. We recommend you pour the Water into a disposable container, add desired color and very slowly stir with a craft stick. If any bubbles are created, set to the side and allow to dissipate fully before pouring the water".

So I'll try that and see what happens.

I'm trying to create a pond and a creek on a golf course with a "blue" water look. Woodland Scenics suggest using Stone Gray and White pigments but I tried several mixture combinations without any success.

Has anyone had success creating blue water? I'm guessing I could paint a base color of  blue acrylic, let it dry and then pour realistic water.

Jimmy

I tried to attach feeder wires to terminal track and gave up. What I found to work is to drill small wholes near rail joiners on top of the plywood, then use a much bigger bit under the wood. Then solder doorbell wire to the rail joiners, attach to Radio Shack terminal strips and use 16 gauge wire to "daisy chain" to main power supply.

I found a 10' extension green wire from hobbylinc for about $7 that should (hopefully) work.

I've got 2 #6 Crossovers, I've looked in Parts but I can't find the power extension wires. What do you guys recommend for a #6 crossover that is 4 feet on the other side of the table? How do you place the swtich close to the transformer?

Thanks.

Jimmy

Thanks everyone, it was Steel E-Z track, the way I got it to work was sliding the feeder wires under the rail joiners and solder there.

I used 18g wire running from various places to 1 barrier strip and then connecting to the transformer and it appears I didn't lose any resistance, which surprised me.

Jimmy

I'm trying to solder 18 gauge feeder wires to EZ track and not having much success (and maybe it's just me, I haven't solder anything in awhile) but can anyone offer any tips? I've placed my track on Woodland risers so drilling a small hole on the outside of the track probably will not work.

Also, I'm trying to run my feeder wires (5 sets) to 1 barrier strip and then a set from the barrier strip to my Bachmann transformer 46605A, does anyone see any problems with that?

Thanks.