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Messages - jward

#1
General Discussion / Re: Bachman SD 70
November 29, 2024, 12:09:42 AM
I have had similar problems with DCC OnBoard locomotives. Adjusting the deceleration rate in CV4 cured the problem.
#2
HO / Re: Bachmann USRA 0-6-0 Shorting out
November 27, 2024, 05:33:08 PM
Is it possible one or both of the wheelsets on the tender truck is reversed? If this locomotive has electrical pickups on the tender trucks, it should have metal wheels. These wheelsets will have a metal axle, and one wheel will have a plastic hub. I do not have this particular version of the 0-6-0, but locomotives with tender truck pickups usually pick up from one rail with the front truck, and the other rail with the rear truck. The wheels with the plastic hubs must be both oriented the same way in the front truck, and that truck will have them oriented the opposite way from the rear truck. In other words, flip the tender over and you should see one hub in the front truck oriented the same as the ones in the rear truck. Carefully pop that wheelset out and flip it around so it faces the same as the other one on the front truck. That should remove the short.
 
#3
HO / Re: Eztrack plans to run 3 dc trains on 4x8 layout
November 26, 2024, 10:57:26 PM
Quote from: Len on November 24, 2024, 04:31:39 PMThis may give you some ideas to start with. With two passing sidings, you should be able to operate two trains on the mainline, plus a yard switcher. You could even add an industrial area switcher. All switches are #4's. The short filler pieces on the straight legs of the mainline #4's are a 1" and a 0.75" The curved section to create the one parallel track in the yard is a 1/2 18" radius curve. The mainline curves are 18" radius. The industrial area spur could be shifted to the left or right if needed for your preferences.






TO use this plan on DC you will need to divide the track into electrically isolated sections called blocks, which can then be connected to any of your three controllers. Google "block control wiring" to see how to do this.

To add operating interest, part of the upper passing siding could be used as yard lead, but you'll need to make sure it's clear when a mainline train is due.

Len
#4
HO / Re: Help please??
November 26, 2024, 10:54:49 PM
Quote from: Parolaccia on November 24, 2024, 04:14:42 PMI have the Pacific Flyer train with the EZ Track and the controller that comes with it. My father in law recently gave us his old McKinley Explorer HO set that has a GP40 diesel engine. When I put this engine on the tracks it moves about 1/4 inch and freezes. Does this type of engine require different tracks or controller? Or would it be something with the engine itself causing it not to work? TIA

Does it do the same forward and backward? Does it seem like one of the trucks is being dragged along?

This locomotive does not require different track or controller, though the cars should be run on 22" radius curves rather than the 18" radius ones in the pacific flyer set.

I suspect you have a gear bind somewhere. You could try looking for grit or other obstructions in the gears. Bright light and a magnifying glass will help you with this. Take the body shell off, and turn the locomotive over, wheels up. Gently turn the motor shaft by hand, and when you feel it bind up, carefully look for grit where the gears mesh. You can clean it out with a toothpick.
#5
HO / Re: Blank Decal Paper - White Lettering
November 26, 2024, 10:47:12 PM
That sounds like an ALPS printer. I think they've been discontinued.
#6
HO / Re: USRA 0-6-0 tender trucks.
November 26, 2024, 10:44:10 PM
I have put 33" metal wheels in the trucks but they look a little off. Coupler height seems to be ok.
#7
HO / Re: Questions about HO scale Jingle Bell Express
November 26, 2024, 10:20:08 PM
Quote from: Nascarrick on November 26, 2024, 06:19:07 PMThanks in advance,
Seems that after 10 minutes, the engine hesitates and then eventually stalls opposite the terminal track straight with the track plug in kit supplied Bachmann speed controller Model 44211.  Is there a more powerful speed controller?  Does it need a second one on the same opposite side position? Seems unlikely for such a short layout?  I did not add any track.  And adding extra Xmas rolling stock only makes the tiny engine suffer worse, so I figure it was built and designed to only run with this supplied set of cars.  Rail cleaning with some rubbing alcohol only subsides the issue for a very short time.
Appreciate the read and any thoughts.       
#8
HO / Re: Remove motor of a GP30
November 25, 2024, 02:28:45 PM
Quote from: trainman203 on November 25, 2024, 07:57:39 AMThere's many reasons why people try to revive a corpse rather than face that it's had its time, let it go, and get the astronomically improved new version of the same.  I'm sure they are all good, one way or another, but I never understand any of them.

I have 4 or 5 in the morgue right now.  But every now and then I need a part and there they are.

I have resurrected many a corpse, if the bones were good. But there has to be something there to work with, and the end result must be a solid, smooth running locomotive. In other words, I am not going to put the effort into something that isn't going to meet my standards even if resurrected. An alternate route is to scrap the drive completely and trans[lant the body on something better and more durable. Diesels are easier than steam because the components are somewhat standardized. As an example, an old pancake motored U36B body can be modified to fit a Bachmann B23-7 chassis, or an Athearn U30B.
#9
HO / Re: Locomotive rec with no smoke or smoke switch?
November 22, 2024, 11:50:37 PM
Also, even if the locomotive you buy has a smoke unit, you don't have to put smoke fluid in it to run the locomotive.
#10
HO / Re: Remove motor of a GP30
November 22, 2024, 11:48:12 PM
Those were not designed to be serviced. I once worked for a guy who had a travelling model railroad display, around 1984-1985. We had alot of pancake motored units because he had connections at Bachmann. These power trucks would crap out regularly, often because the motor overheated and melted the plastic bearings. Due to his connection we were able to send in the power truck for replacement rather than the whole locomotive like a normal user would. We did not try to service these power trucks. We did alot of maintenance work in our down time and other makes of locomotives would get teardowns and overhauls. But not the pancake motor stuff. WHen one failed, we'd go to the drawer of U36Bs, pull out a replacement locomotive and be back up and running. As time permitted, we would pull the bad power truck, and put in a replacement from the stock we had on hand. The old one would be sent to Bachmann and replaced in kind.

I don't think the parts store has carried any parts for these, even complete power trucks, in years.

Thankfully, a few years later the Spectrum GP30s came out, and started the upgrade of Bachmann's product line. The old GP30 body will probably fit on a newer, improved drive. You can often find these newer locomotives on ebay for under $50. That is the route I personally would take.
#11
HO / Re: Remove motor of a GP30
November 21, 2024, 05:43:23 PM
What does yours look like then? Is it one of the old pancake motored engines with the motor on the front truck? If so there's not much you can do to fix it.
#12
HO / USRA 0-6-0 tender trucks.
November 21, 2024, 04:12:26 PM
On the USRA 0-6-0s are do the tender trucks have 33" or 36" wheels? I'd like to upgrade them to metal.
#13
HO / Re: Locomotive rec with no smoke or smoke switch?
November 21, 2024, 04:10:33 PM
I've got several of those USRA 0-6-0s. The smoke units on them are easy to remove as they sit in a cavity in the chassis just below the smokestack. Loosen the screws holding the frame halves together just enough to get a small screwdriver in there and the smoke unit pops right out. On the ones I have it wasn't actually wired to anything, and worked off of small electrical contacts against the frame halves making it very easy to remove.
#14
HO / Re: Remove motor of a GP30
November 21, 2024, 03:40:00 PM
This is a split frame design. Everything is sandwiched between two frame halves and to work on it you need to separate them. There should be a screw and T nut on each end of the frame. Lay the locomotive on its side with the body off, them unscrew the screws and lift the frame off. Be aware that the frame halves are separated by a plastic spacer washer and be careful not to lose it. You should be able to remove any and all components of the drive now.
#15
HO / Re: Motor Control - CV Settings
November 21, 2024, 08:57:15 AM
My approach was to take a benchmark locomotive, run it at top speed over a timed course to calculate its speed in scale mph, figure out where I wanted top speed to be as a percentage of that (i.e.100 mph actual versus 50 mph desired + 50%) then adjust cvs 5 and 6 to that percentage. Test run to see how it performs, then make any adjustments from there. Once that was done, I'd do the same to the rest of the fleet, and tweak them so they ran at exactly the same speed as the benchmark loco. I run diesels mostly, so speed matching is necessary to run consists. For steam, unless you intend to doublehead them it's not as critical that they perform exactly alike.