Hi,

I have Dynamis for many years. I ordered one from UK store because they had, at the time, good deals selling Dynamis what was included in some train sets. Power Supply was universal just with the UK mains plug. After few days I noticed that my communication is not working, or working when it wants. I checked the house lights, changed bulbs, different AC sockets at different rooms. Always the same. Then I oppened the electronic unit. Everything looked good. I wanted to check the DC outputs and maybe add some capacitors. I didn't see any significant change in communication. When unit was open, I made some short with my scope probe and my Dynamis was dead. I was suspecting that maybe Power Supply is problem, then ordered another Dynamis unit from UK. Soon I have found that the second unit is working the same. I tried on this forum to see if somebody knows the problem, but, at that time it was unknown why Dynamis is behaving like this. My background is electronics, then I decided to go on the next step- If it is not hand unit ( I had two), not the electronics unit, then different power supply will help, maybe. On local surplus store, here in Toronto, I found the nice power supply used for some medical equipment, same voltage and same current ( current could be highier) as the original one. I changed the power jack ( cut and solder original one) and connected. Bingo- for a 5 years not a single communication problem! I suppose that UK and USA power supplies are the same ( you just get the different plug), then this solution probably will work for all Dynamis controllers, at least worked for me. Hope that helps,

Regards from Canada, Zdenko Grgic, Toronto

After the all possibilites, changing the outlets, receiver position, leaving Power Supply always ON, the best solution so far is new Power Supply unit.
I ordered one from e-bay, same voltage, almost the same Amps, used for some medical equipment, but new in the box. Since then- no single loss of communication! Sometimes, I see when everything is powered ON, that handheld unit needs to be close to the reciver to start, then my loco starts with sound and I can remotely control from greater distance.
During the search for the cause of initial problem I put some additional filtering capacitors inside the receiver unit. Also I touched with oscilloscope probe some wrong point and made a short.
Receiver unit was dead. That was the moment to order and check the other components. I ahve a great experience in electronic troubleshooting, but this problem was the mistery.
I ordered another set from some UK seller ( new Dynamis set separated from the whole train set).
The new set also worked ON and OFF. But this time I had two handheld units, working the same. Also I had the new receiver unit, worked the same as the prevoius. Power Supply worked the same.
So far, the change of Power Supply worked the best for me.

My regards to all forum members!

Zdenko, Toronto

I have ordered 2 sets from UK ( living in Canada, Toronto). They came with universal voltage input and switchable AC plug types.
Because these switching power supplies had some problem working here at 120V, ( sometimes I had problem with communication and I sourced it from power supplies), I ordered some power supply from e-bay. What is important, that is 16V, 2A or more. You can buy in local electronic shop exact connector for DC input in your Dynamis and solder it on. My problems disappeared with PS change. I am sure supplied Dynamis PS will come with US type plug, but power supply should be universal voltage input. Even if not, order one quality PS from e-bay ( for lap top etc.) and it will work for sure. I think my PS from e-bay came from Australia, some overstock medical unit. Price is mostly 10$ or so.

Regards

Zdenko

Hi,

if you check previous Dynamis discussions you will find "Dynamis on and off" sent by me. I had problem with unit ( new) sent from UK. Unit worked good sometimes, but very often not. I was suspecting something about power supply. My oscilloscope shown some spikes, but only when power supply is open ( without the load). I oppened the unit ( main electronic unit) and found some places to add electrolytic capacitors and try it then. By mistake, I made a short circuit and unit died.

Then I ordered another Dynamis set from the same shop hoping that another unit will solve the problem. The other worked exactly the same. Just there is no communication and green LED flashes.
I was sure then my handheld is not the problem. Went to e-bay and found the good switching power supply with same voltage output. Current can be highier, but prefferably not lower.
That was not expensive medical PS ( new in the box), a bit bigger than original. Since then ( spring 2010) both handhelds and remaining receiver unit worked without single loss of communication!
In the older posts there is one with similar problem, when used 120V power from generator or so. It looks original power supply is sensitive to: Place where is plugged in, neighbouring equipment or current voltage in your AC plugs ( it can vary, in my case Canada 120V +/-  a few percent.)
This is my experience, with very nice product otherwise.

Zdenko   

Hello,

Take the leading truck wheels out and put them in reverse ( turned 180 degrees). You have short because contact from leading truck is giving the wrong side polarity.

Regards

Zdenko

Hello Frank,

This is well known problem of older decapods and it is easily fixed. Just search this forum and you will find similar problems solved. Locomotive has wheels cover made from plastic. When you remove it ( carefully), you will see two flexible copper strips, each side deliver current from the wheels. After some time these tracks move from the plastic ( mostly in the middle) and make electrical contact with closest driver axle. Some people put glue and moved strips back, close to the cover. I just placed 3cm long strip ( cut to the width of the copper) of electrical tape to cover the exposed copper track.
Here on the site you can open the exploded diagrams for 2-10-0 and DCC ready version has insulator added. After the modification loco is working perfectly and it is ready for my DCC and sound addition. Tender is not a problem in this case.

Regards
Zdenko

Reinhard,

Older locomotives had sometimes metal frame part of the electrical contact from the rails, wheels to the motor, lights, smoke generators etc.. Bachmann used two metal halves connected electrically to the sides. Motor was connected to them directly. Also lights and pickups sher the same connection. Some manufacturers used one side of the motor ( case) connected to the one rail and other rail ( thru wheels pickup contacts and wires) to the other contact of the motor. In DC you have everything ( Motor, lights, smoke if installed) connected to the rail pickups, sometimes using the metal frame.
DCC is different, rail contacts must be isolated because there is no connection directly from the  rails to the motor, lights or other stuff inside the loco. Signal ( and power voltage) goes first to the PCB and DCC decoder itself. From there digital commands will be decoded ( DCC decoder!) and voltage will be sent to the right place- motor, lights or other. This is the reason why motor must be isolated- connection from the rails must be separate to carry signal only to the decoder.
In most locomotives it is possible to use soldering iron and disconnect the motor, then to connect it to the decoder ( some electronics knowledge is required).
Hope this will help, if you have more questions I will be happy to answer them!

Regards, Zdenko

Hello,

It is almost impossible that wire is melted and PCB track is broken, to have decoder outputs not burned. With that current mostly output transistors are burned.
I don't know the configuration of that decoder and the wiring, but you can try ( with some electronic knowledge) to track the wires and PCB tracks if possible. If you can see where is track broken or wire melted, maybe you can try to replace the wires, patch the broken track on PCB and clean all shorts. If after  that  you still have error then probably decoder motor outputs are burned, or repair is not done correctly. Maybe you can bypass some tracks on PCB ( printed circuit board) with wires direct to the motor or lighs. Most locos have connection from the tender to the main engine as 2 motor wires, line for the light and two wires for the power pick-up from the rails, plus one common wire ( for lights accessories etc.).

Good luck!

Zdenko, Toronto

Thank you Lex,

I just sent a scan of Lafayette diagram to the site owner. I found Prussia already there ( same parts used). From my Pegasus train set it is used the same diagram as Lafayette 4-2-0- even the name.
Soon I will send more diagrams- site is excellent!

Regards

Zdenko

Bachmann Lafayette loco is one of the three almost the same models. I have the Lafayette, Prussia ( made in Hong Kong probably for EU) and the new one The Pegasus. They all use the same loco,Norris type, with small changes, paint etc. I have the exploded diagrams of Pegasus and probably of Lafayette. Can send it to your mail in .pdf file ( I don't know if I can attach it here).

Regards, Zdenko, Toronto 

I posted some time ago a topic "Dynamis on and off". My problem is that sometimes ( mostly when I move and disconnect the set ) base unit ( with IR receiver) doesn't have communication with the hand unit. I am suspecting problem is  in power supply, but receiver unit can be the cause. In my case, if unit decides not to work that day, left LED is blinking and there is no communication. After some time disconnected unit starts  connected) with with both LEDs flashing and I know that will result in communication with hand unit. That can work for days. In your case can be defective base unit, but you can check the connection IR receiver- base unit, is it every pin in the socket? Do you have both LEDs flashing or just one? Do you have proper initialization on hand unit- all signs ON and then stop on the top?
I will post my findings when I do some check with the oscilloscope. Easiest way is what Mr Bach-Man suggested to borrow the parts from  friend (if any around with this system). It looks your hand unit is not the problem, probably swap of the base unit would show difference. It applies to me, also.
Good luck and please post if you get something from the Tech. Support.

Regards, Zdenko

Hello to all members and Mr. Bach-Man!

I wish to all to run more trains this year!

I have some problem with Bachmann Dynamis DCC controller, maybe somebody from the forum had the same experience. Recently I ordered new DCC Dynamis over the e-bay, from the shop in UK.
On the first power ON, left LED started to blink. I couldn't start any of my trains. Instruction says that LED blinks if STOP is engaged or you have short on the track. After some time unit started to work. It worked untill some days after I disconnected the power supply ( it is universal voltage switching PS, 100-240V, original Bachmann) and I experienced the same problem. Just left LED blinking. After some time and many tries unit started to work properly. In this case both LEDs blinking on power ON, when handheld unit is powered On and stop is removed, main station LEDs change- left one is always ON, right one is blinking during the transmission.
After that unit worked excellent for a week ( without disconnecting the power supply from the wall, but disconnecting the power connector from the station unit. I thought probably problem is in power unit ( 15.5V, 2.5A).
Today, problem is back, even if I didn't disconnect the wall PS. Left LED is blinking and I can't control any train. Just to add, measured voltage output from the PS is 15.5V DC on my digital voltmeter.
Any idea?

Thank you in advance for any suggestion!

Best Regards, Zdenko, Toronto

Thank you Brad!

I have at least 5 new DCC decoders ready to be installed, about half of my locomotives are DCC. Small Climax was just about to be installed ( one of the easiest). Motor is really specific size and not a common one.
I hope somebody who wishes to sell Climax will make contact.

Best Wishes to all and happy model-railroading!

Zdenko 

Hello to Mr. Bach-Man and all members!

I have  a collection of  Bachmann Spectrum locos and I think they are very nice products. Specially I take care about products not in production as 50 Ton Climax is ( Ho scale). During my gears check on that, for me, very important loco ( I have two shays and Heisler for logging) I put the engine on my test track, connected to Bachmann EZ- Command. I was lazy to connect DC power pack just for few seconds of gear check. EZ- Command instruction says that you can use address 10 for DC use. I found that DC locos are not too happy to be there. Noise is coming from the motors and lights ( or leds) are always ON. Loco was in perfect condition before I switched power and tried to move the engine. It moved for some short time and died. Just Leds ON! It was too much for tiny motor inside and it burned. In panic, I disassembled  more then enough of a bit complicated mechanism and found that motor is dead.
Bad part is that loco is not in production anymore and I am desperate to find one for my geared Steam collection. If some members have it for sale, please contact me, even if it is with broken gears or something else ( at least motor to be OK :-)
I contacted service department if they can find the motor replacement ( it is very small 10mm x 15mm, shaft 1mm dia).
This is warning for other members to be careful with DC use of EZ Command, I haven't found problems with bigger engines, but small tiny motors can be in danger).
I would ask Mr. Bachmann or other members if they can advice for the motor type ( maybe some motor from current production can be replacement?).

Thank you all and again, if somebody wants to sell new or used 50 Ton Climax loco, please contact me.

Zdenko

Hello to all forum members and Mr. Bach-Man!

Mostly I read the posts, but this time maybe I can help somebody with my experience. I have many Bachman HO steamers, mostly Spectrum. They all work well, my favorite Shay needed new trucks, but replaced with parts ordered from Bachmann.
Recent order of 4-8-4 Niagara and 2-10-0 Decapod ( brand new) showed both engines DOA. Niagara didn't move (DCC and DC tested) and rear light worked! My work ( and hobby) is electronics, then I decided to open the tender and the loco ( avoiding send back to USA and waiting for the new one). Small PCB located inside the loco has two connectors on it. They are used for the connection to the tender. Wires from the PCB go to the motor, wheels pick-up  and the  front light. I expected to see the soldered wires but they were bent thru the holes on the PCB and insulated by some small plastic square caps. I carefully soldered the wires, positioned the insulators back and loco worked like the dream. Also I replaced the yellow LED's, (on tender too) with 3mm white ones, without resistor change ( current is almost the same for both).
Decapod had the common problem- it was short on loco ( DCC ready model). I have read the forum and confirmed that wheel pick-up contacts on the loco ,located on the bottom cover, over the wheels, are problem. Two stripes of elastic contacts are attached to the cover at the ends. Middle part is raised a bit and touches the middle shaft, one with the gear. I placed two stripes of insulation tape over the exposed part. Then you have to carefully put the part back. You can also insulate the contacts end with wires soldered to it.
I found that DCC on board, sound version, has insulation part added, which prevents the short ( from Bachmann Diagrams  part No-H843X-00001).
Also I added a bit of weight for both tenders (4-8-4 and 2-10-0) to prevent cables to lift them up.
Now they work perfect, even on the small track radius.

Regards
Zdenko