bapguy, Essentially, I have all the locos I need, plus one; or, two.  We are a one computer family and this computer is not anywhere near my layout.  When I first started adding DCC decoders to my locos 15 years ago, I thought records of how I set-up each of my locos would be a good idea.  So, I have a small-spiral bound notebook where each loco has a page and on it, I have written the data for the CV's I have changed to other settings than as from the manufacturer.  This has worked well for me, as it allows instant access to the data for a given loco, at the location where I would program each loco.   

I don't know how to post photo here and I actually don't spend much time here in the Bachmann Forum.  Pretty much only when I have a question(s) on a Bachmann product.

Since "Blast" mode programming is not mentioned in any of the literature I have with my Digitrax equipment, I simply assumed that it must mean OPS mode programming.  The public has been known to create new names for actions; or other details that the manufacturer did not use.  Assuming, as always, is a dangerous proposition!  I have been known to do it and it always seems to come back to bite me in ASSume!

Since I reversed the leads to the motor and my RS-3 now runs in correct forward for a N. P. RS-3, I am done with this thread and will allow you experts to discuss what "Blast" mode programming is, I really don't care.   

Hunt,  I am using my programming track, which has a Sountraxx's PTB-100 Programming Track Booster properly installed.  I believe all the suggestions people have made, have been tried and failed!   I believe your suggestion of programming on the main "Blast"; or, OPS mode programming is because the Soundtraxx decoders require more power than the Digitrax DCS 50 normally produces at the programming track.

Others have suggested reversing the motor leads and this will be my last attempt at trying to get this to happen.  Thanks to everyone for their help in this matter!   

Quote from: brokenrail on March 28, 2016, 11:24:52 AM
Try cv 29=21 or 22 programming on the main .This should keep it in 128 speed step mode.It is kind of like odd -even numbers in relation to direction.Sometimes you have to re-address the loco hen you do this for some reason.I do not have cv readback on my system,but I take notes.Your getting lost since the loco that you are programming is ALSO when you get into cv 29 sometimes causes it to lose it's address.
Johnny

Tried this and nothing changes except yes, the address goes back 03.

I have one of Bachmann's Sound Value Alco RS-3s re-painted as a Northern Pacific loco,  N.P. ran these locos short hood forward and the loco came from factory as long hood forward.  NDOT in CV 29, following my Digitrax Zephyr and decoder manuals states I should just be able to add one number to CV29 to get my loco to change directions; however after much fooling around and discussion with Digitrax and on other forums, I have been unable to get anything to work!

What is the secret?  Please speak in plain English as you DCC nuts will loose me in an instant!

I put the shell in the freezer overnight and in the morning attempted to loosen the lenses, they would not come loose.  I became fearful the part would break so stopped.  I guess if I can't get replacement lenses, I will leave the originals in and ignore the previous paint which is seen in the holes.

I would like to replace my headlight lenses on the above model with new lenses, they are Part number 00G05.  Are these parts available?  The reason for this is I am painting the locomotive to a Northern Pacific model and  need to know the old lenses out in order to paint.

Mark

John,

I found that although not very tight up against the wheel, at least one set of wipers was making good contact with a set of wheels all the time.  I concluded that poor electrical continuity through the wipers likely was not my problem.  So, I am awaiting a response from Bachmann on how to proceed.

Mark

Thanks for everyone's help, I'm sending the loco back to Bachmann to figure out.

Did you need to remove the truck side frame assembly to get at the wipers to bend them?  It appears to me that they can't be bent with the wheels in place and to remove the wheels I need to remove the side frames.  So, how do I remove the side frame assembly?  Am I voiding the warrentee when I do this?
[/quote]

Quote from: West Bound on February 03, 2015, 08:59:32 PM
If Yardmasters solution doesn't work, check the wheel wiper pickups. I had a similar issue. I carefully bent the wipers to apply more pressure to the back of the wheel and that solved the problem. -John West

Did you need to remove the truck side frame assembly to get at the wipers to bend them?  It appears to me that they can't be bent with the wheels in place and to remove the wheels I need to remove the side frames.  So, how do I remove the side frame assembly?  Am I voiding the warrentee when I do this?

I have had the body off of the chassis and gave things a cursory look.  Nothing significant was noticed.  However, I will look at what both of you have suggested.  If I find anything I will report back.

I have just received the above locomotive, purchased from Micro-Mark.  This is the second one of these locomotives I've purchased in a the last two months.  I  ran the loco for a while on the from the factory, 03 address and locomotive ran very sporadically.  I programmed in the loco's new 4 digit address with my Digitrax Zephyr DCS50 and the loco still runs poorly!  It runs for a short bit, goes dead and runs for a bit and goes dead, etc. etc.  It is not stopping at specific locations and seems to stop at random locations that change everytime it runs through the same length of track.  I have clean track, none of my other locomotives stop and start like this one does.  I cleaned the wheels twice with Goo Gone on a shop towel and this improved it slightly.  I was hopeful that it would run in and begin to do better; but, this does not seem to be happening.  It maybe has 30 minutes of running time.   

Thank you to whom ever removed the last few posts to this thread!  So, at this point I have an Alco S-4 in N.P. livery and a DCC decoder that works, my lights don't function; but, I can fix that.  I would like to thank those who made suggestion and helped me out! 

Quote from: Len on January 14, 2015, 06:18:33 AM
Is there a current limiting resistor built into the light assembly?

If not, same as with a 1.5V bulb, the LED may have been fried with the hardwired DH123D installation the OP mentioned. Which makes me wonder why hardwire in a 'DCC Ready' loco?

Len

When I emailed Digitrax, questioning about a drop in decoder for this loco, Digitrax could not reference a decoder that would just drop in.   So, I had a  DH123D, which is a good generic decoder for this application and used that.  Missing that I was going to need a dropping resistor was a mistake on my part.  I had foolishly thought that because it was supposed to be DCC ready all I had to do was add a decoder and that the resistor must have been a part of the LED assembly.  My bad!  I also wondered, if the loco is supposed to be DCC ready, why where the back-up lights soldered to the PC Board?