I currently own this nice little runner and was wondering if a Digitrax SD164D sound decoder would work to upgrade it?  The current decoder is in the tender and there is a spce for a peaker already there, along with a 8 pin plug.
Anyone try this?  I like the price of the decoder $45- and they work well in Atheans with 9 pin connectors.

Roger T
Thanks for the tips! I removed the springs and that did the trick.  Now after owning it for 4 years Ican make continuous loops around the track on my layout.  Also had to modify the tender bar to a single bar as the original design "pushed" the tender off at each turnout- no longer the case.

Couple of problems here.  Front wheels seem to jump off the track causing derails. This happens on 30" radius curves.  Happens at half throttle. I made sure the screws are snug to allow freedom of movement but the seem to ride up.  CAn I add a bit of weight on top of the front wheels??  Any other good solutions out there?
Also, what is the "optional"rerail frog holder that came in the box?  the diagram isn't clear how or why to install
Thank you!

I have a very nice running Bachmann Spectrum Norfolk & Western J class #611 with DCC on board
Question: If I wanted to add sound- how complicated is it to add?  I see a spot in the tender with holes for the speaker.
Do I have to replace the current circuit board or is it just a plug in a component?
Thanks

Thanks
Appreciate the help.
Anybody with experience out there who has done this?  What decoders work? (model #'s)?

I have a very nice running Bachmann Spectrum Norfolk & Western J class #611 with DCC on board
Question: If I wanted to add sound- how complicated is it to add?  I see a spot in the tender with holes for the speaker.
Do I have to replace the current circuit board or is it just a plug in a component?
Thanks

Thanks
Yes this is plan for my loco.  Maybe it would b ebetter to leave this as a DC only loco- a new DCC version is only about $45.
Appreciate everyones help.
Bob

Thanks Nigel
My unit doesn't have the split chassis, it has a solid frame.  Also on top there is a different circuit board with 2 brass/copper strips that cotnact the frame for the lights

Hi
Wondering if anyone out there ever upgraded a dc Dash-7 B23/B30 to dcc and what decoders fit it.
I really like this old engine and would like to run it on my dcc layout
Thanks

thanks to all who weighed in.  I added weight to the tender and retrofitted the plastic connecting bar to not bind.  Seemed to do the trick.  The design of the H shaped connecting bar seemed to be the main problem.
Maybe the Bachmann can weigh in 

It is a HO scale loco- and the connection between the tender and loco is an H shaped piece of plastic with 2 points of contact on both the tender and loco.  I think this odd connection is part of the problem-as it isn't so free in lateral movement.  It sort of binds to a certain point and then jumps quickly, which causes de-railing

Thank You
I'll give it a try and let you know.

I just got a new DCC norfolk and Western Spectrum DCC unit.  I am having problems with the tender derailing on curves and switches.  It seems pretty light and the connecting bar between the 2 units sort of binds on curves.  Is there any experience in improving the T shapped bar to let the units run together better?  The bar also lifts the front wheels of the tender off the track.  Any suggestions
Thanks
Bob

Hunt/all
Thank you very much!  I really appreciate your help.   So it appears there is a difference between Loco address(which refers to the stack) and Loco # (which is its road #) I'll give it a try.

Yes, I am using a new MRC prodigy Advanced2
Do I need to change CV 29 to 6 or 4?
Do I need to do it for each engine?
Also when programmin a loco it asked for an address 1st and then a loco number.  Can I input the road number both times?  Or is the address different from the loco #  .  All programming manuals don't really explain the difference