Quote from: Yampa Bob on May 03, 2009, 02:40:03 AM
You're right, it is not pretty. (I'm referring to the ugly mess of wiring between the loco and tender). Maybe that's why I'm partial to diesels.

I'm thinking one solution is to eliminate the plugs and sockets, run the wires straight through and make the connection in the tender. The straight wiring harness could be painted black and fastened to the drawbar for better appearance.

I bought a coil of decoder wires, 30 gauge color coded, hoping they might be more flexible.  Nope, very stiff plastic covering. It's just something we have to work around.

I recently bought a set of ear bud earphones with really limp wire. It's 2 conductor from each ear and then three conductor to the plug. The only problem is the conductors are foil and very fragile. It might be worth a try if you're very careful.

Quote from: rustyrails on April 23, 2009, 07:39:33 PM
I'm starting this thread because I didn't want to hijack the My First Steam Engine thread.  In that thread, jbsmith writes about his new 2-8-4 (a really handsome locomotive) and notes that it will not go through an Atlas Tru-Track switch without derailing. 

Atlas Tru-Track is based on the the company's venerable "snap track" line.  A "snap switch" through the diverging route is the equivilent of 1.5" of straight track and then 2/3 of an 18" radius curve through the frog.  I don't know exactly, but I suspect that a snap switch approximates a number 2 frog--an impossibly sharp angle. 

In 1998 the 3rd edition of Robert Schleicher's HO Model Railroading Handbook was published.  Mr. Schleicher is a professional model builder/model railroader,  His book is interesting, in part, because in it, he builds a layout using what were then "new" materials--specifically Bachmann's EZ-Track and expanded styrofoam insulation.  He says, "Do try to limit your purchases of locomotives to 8-wheeled or smaller diesels and 53-scale-foot or shorter freight cars if you have only 4 X 8 feet or less of layout space.  The shorter equipment looks more realistic on the tight curves. "  He has a corresponding "Don't" that basically says don't try to run big stuff until you can have room for at least 24" radius curves.

I guess my point is that we need not make problems for ourselves fighting derailments and poor performance.  Just because 18"R track exists doesn't mean we have to run our largest loco on it.  An 18"radius curve is about 135 real feet.  Can you imagine a 100 foot locomotive REALLY going around a curve that sharp?  It's your railroad, but I propose that if you run equipment that "fits", you'll enoy it more.  Just my two cents worth.  Hope I didn't offend anyone.

Rusty

I've had some success with softening the curves. Instead of going from flat to r18" go to r33' then r22' then r18'. It would approximate the ideal (I think) of a parabola to ease into a tight curve. It also alleviates the "swing" of the overhang going from straight to r18".

Quote from: uncbob on April 18, 2009, 08:43:29 AM
The PRR museum in Strasberg PA has a NP Berk on display outside
Unfortunately the weather and the birds are not kind to it

Such a shame!

Quote from: jbsmith on April 23, 2009, 10:13:52 PM
Does anyone still run or even still have,,rolling stock  that you have had since you were a kid?

I still do!
For me my old rolling stock dates back to the mid to late 1970s.
Sill got some of my original AHM and Tyco cars.
I even still have an NW coupola caboose, HO scale, made by Lionel!
I was going to scavenge it for parts,,but then i turned it over and
saw the word "Lionel" on the bottom it became a Keeper.
I was surprised by that,,did a bit of research and rediscovered that yes,
for a brief time Lionel did produce HO scale trains

Sometimes I still run these,,get out the Tyco cars,,a Sara Lee box/reefr,Star Kist box/reefer, Borax hopper, Ajax hopper,Jell-O hopper,Kellogg's hopper, Berkshire Ham and Bacon reefer,,AHM? Dairymans League reefer and a AHM Oscar Meyer reefer that i still got the AHM box for it!
Used to have the Tyco Morton Salt hopper,,but that one vanished,,no idea when it vanished.

Still got the Tyco,,I think it is about a 60 footer Hi-Cube Union Pacific boxcar,
a very prototypical car for Tyco at the time.

Still have the Michigan Alkyline tanker,PennRR Gondola and SF caboose and
FM C-Liner from my very first set, AHM. The C-liner still works! It is not in mint
condition, took parts from a beyond fixing it twin C-liner such as removing
the traction tire wheels and replacing them with wheels that do not need
tires,,the loco can't pull more than 3 or 4 cars now,,but it Works!
Kind of thrill to hear that loco growl again after being in storage for about
24 years. The C-liner is Santa Fe War bonnet, classic red and silver.

Got some other rolling stock units too, but thats enough for now.
Your Turn!

Personally, I would keep them exactly as is, they are collectors items. Better to buy new stuff to modify. At a minimum, keep all the old parts so you can restore them.

I have a Bachmann 484 Northern #6012. It came in a set from Costco. The only thing wrong is the number. From what I can find out that number was a 482. The 484s started at #6200.

Quote from: pdlethbridge on February 28, 2009, 02:57:10 AM
That reminds me of a picture of a B&M switcher carrying a block of ice on the pilot. Don't ask me why.

It's the coolest place on the engine to carry it.

Quote from: pdlethbridge on February 26, 2009, 07:32:06 AM
Bob, its very interesting that the scale weight of a loco less than the actual weight of our locos. But if we were to scale down the weight of cars, they would weigh an ounce or 2. A lighter loco to pull a lighter load. Unfortunately, they would not track well because of their light weight. I too, like to run cars with prototype loads. I have a car for tea and another one for donuts!

They must be awfully small donuts.

I have the same locomotive and did the conversion using a Digitrax DH123. I took out the cap's but left the resistors (0.47 ohm, I think). It worked fine without the cap's on DC even before I installed the decoder. If your decoder power to motor is supersonic the cap's would appear as a short. RF suppression is most likely built into the decoder .

Sorry, I meant MDF plywood.

Quote from: Yampa Bob on February 03, 2009, 10:38:35 PM
I am very fortunate to have Caboose Hobbies, which I believe is the nation's largest train store, only 200 miles away.  I visit them about once a month, and the store is always packed with customers.  They are open 7 days a week.
If I need something in a hurry, I call in the morning, the item is usually here the next day.

I agree, if you find a good hobby store any slight difference in price is worth it for the service and advice they offer. My usual store is The Credit Valley Railway Company in Streetsville, Ontario. Their prices are comparible to On-line prices when you consider the C$ xchange rate.

Quote from: Casy jHOnes on February 03, 2009, 05:40:49 PM
I thought I could simply grab some roadbed at local shop but its too thin (3/16?). Is there a certain type that works best for Atlas "Patches" between  E Z track and where do you buy it online?

ALSO - I know this will be sacrelage but has anyone ever tried screws (maybe tiny sq. drives) to anchor track? I'm not that concerned with how it looks just can't see pounding nails in bouncy plywood.

I use MDF for the layout. I like to drill holes the same size as nails and just push the nails in with a nail set. You may have to play with the drill size to get a fit you like in plywood.

I heard a Walthers GP7 with bevel gear drive that was very quiet.

If you use a 12 Ga or 10 Ga bus and connect to the track every three or four feet with 22 Ga you should be almost unlimited for trackage. The limiting factor would then be the power supply vs. the draw of your loco's.

I purchased an "Overland" set from Costco before I knew any better. The 4-8-4 loco (I think it's based on the "Northern" but not DCC ready) was super easy to convert. I took off the front truck and with three further screws the shell came off. Everything was already isolated so it was a matter of unhooking the motor and pickup wires and soldering to the decoder wires, removing the suppression capacitors (not the resistors) and soldering to the decoder. I'm not big on smoke so I left that disconected but you could use one function or direct to the track. The LED resistor and cap are on a small connector board. If you don't like to solder you could cut the traces to isolate the functions and use the solderless connectors as supplied on the board. I don't have a DCC setup yet, or even a permanent layout but I took the chassis to my hobby shop and it ran fine under DCC. I have pictures but I don't know how to share them here.

Quote from: polekat on December 24, 2008, 05:54:33 PM
I just wanted to wish everyone Merry Christmas.

Can't wait for tomorrow because I am sure that Mrs. Santa has a package for me containing a 'GE45Tonner'

Cheers, Polekat

I have a 45T and it's great. Those side rods are mezmerizing going like mad at 20mph (scale). It seems to make a lot of gear noise but I'm told that will diminish with use. There is a speaker grill in the bottom but I don't know where you could fit a decoder.