Hello there,


I was going to start under a new topic, but since it was in regards to curve radius, I rather thought to post it under this thread.

jward mention about #4 switches having an effective radius of more than 22", I would like to know if there is any read up about it on this or any other website of the number of the switch i.e #4, #6, #8 etc etc and their effective radii? Or if someone could give me an idea about it as I've been using only 18" switches to date.

And thanks ACY and Doneldon for the advise/input !


Thanks again!


Loco722


 

Hello there!

Thanks guys for Your input it's very helpful. By the looks of it, I may have to stick to 22r curves and switches, but still have a itch for 24r curves and #8 switches, only time will tell.

I have one more question, I'm trying to build an oval layout, single track representing a generic branch line which runs thru a forest-like area with a single spur line.

I'm going to be using code 83 nickel-silver tack. I want to know, assuming this oval is around 45"x75", how many points or at how many feet/inches of track should I supply power to maintain smooth operation?

The trains I'm running are short (around 5 box cars) with a single locomotive running on standard DC.


Thanks once again in advance!   


Loco722.

I agree withe jward, if I had a room that was 20'x20', I would have 48" radius curves and #12 switches. But I'm not fortunate to have that kind of space to dedicate for a HO scale model railroad, as I'm very sure most of you do not too.

At the moment I'm having about 4.5'x7' of space to work with!

Hello there,


Thanks for the advice guys. I was in the opinion that the couplers, irrespective of brand were generally more or less the same.

I did come across a site saying that to get good automatic coupling with 50' cars on curves the minimum radius should be around 20-21". So I just wanted a second opinion.

Anyway, maybe I should take ACY's advice and try to see if I could fit 24" radius curves on my new layout. But I think it's gona be a tight fit as I have limited space. Also, if I do use 24" curves, what are the equal switches for it? #6 or #8?

Thanks in advance again!


Loco722   

Hello there,


I need to know what is the minimum radius curve, HO scale, on which 50' cars would couple without intervention.

The 50' cars I have, have body mounted couplers, no talgo trucks, and all my locomotives also have body mounted couplers.

I have being running on 18" radius curves from when I started model railroading, and I'm thinking of upgrading to 22" radius curves and switches. I will be considering 24" curves also.

Thanks in advance,


Loco722



 

Hello there,


Wow, that's more info than I expected. Thanks guys .


Loco722.

Doneldon,


You need not apologize, it's my bad that I hadn't set my profile time correctly.

Thank YOU for mentioning that my profile time was set to North American Mountain time, I have since corrected it.


Loco722.

Hello there,


Thanks for the information guys, appreciate Your input.

I'm trying to get my layout a little, well at least, semi-prototypical in which I like to model a railroad where the trains are small locals which consist of one locomotive hauling around 3-6 cars (well a small branch line rather). The locomotives would be the ones mentioned above.

Also I should mention, I'm not from America, I'm Sri Lankan , I have an American train set with additional equipment. I'm trying to build the layout as mentioned above so that's why I was seaking this information.

Anyway, I thank you  all once again for the information!


Loco722.   

Hello there,


This is for information, in the USA is it common to see just 1 locomotive powering a train instead of a lash up of 2 or 3 when moving a train over flat terrain?

When I mean single I'm not referring to trains with one locomotive at the front and one at the back, but just one lone locomotive pulling the train from front using locomotives like GP15s, GP38s and GP39s in particular?

Just like to know if it is done using such locomotives as I've seen a very few pictures of GP15, 38 and 39s doing so.

Thanks in advance!


Loco722.

Quote
If there is room, not a problem. Try it and let us know how it works out.

Go to the Bachmann diagram page and look at the various loco diagrams.
I have done this with other brands of locos but you have to know what you are doing. It is not plug and play.
NWSL has all kinds of gears and motors, flywheels, geared wheel sets, etc for loco upgrades.

http://www.nwsl.com/

Rich

Thanks Rich, that's a nice site You showed me to! ! I did send an E-mail to them asking if there is a flywheel or flywheel kit for such a upgrade.

Quote
If it is shutting down your power pack it probably has a short. A flywheel will not help this. You have to find where the short is.

Bob

Well, it kinda happens by the way to my Flywheel equipped Bachmann B23-7 and Walthers GP-9, but they just jerk abit over that bad spot, while the GP40 sometimes comes to a stop and tips off the power pack. But I should be cleaning those tracks sooner or later. Thanks for the advice anyway !

Anyway, has anybody here attempted it? Like is there a Bachmann GP40 fitted/upgraded with flywheel(s)?


Thanks again,


Loco722     

Hello there,


Since this is about improving the running characteristics of the Bachmann standard line, I would just like to know if anyone has attempted to install a flywheel(s) on a standard DC, 8 wheel pick and drive Bachmann GP40?

I've had my one for some time now (more than a year), it runs well, but at low speeds it growls and at times stops and tips off my Life-Like power pack.

So I was thinking of adding a flywheel(s). Is it possible? I'm open to other suggestions! .


Thanks in advance!

Loco722.   

Hello there,

Sorry, I should have been a little more specific of which time frame I'm modeling.

I'm modeling the in the mid 90s to late 90s  .

So would using a ETD or FRED fit that time frame?

Thanks for Your input once again !

Loco722.

Hello there,

As mentioned by me under the topic "Maximum Gradient", I'm modeling a fictitious branch line (only diesels) in which the trains will only consist a maximum of 1 locomotive with 4 50ft box cars and caboose.

Looking thru the internet, I noticed that short trains as mentioned above don't seem to need a caboose at the back even with locos with conventional cabs.

Any opinions/thoughts with regard to this?

Thanks in advance !

Loco722. 

Hello!

Thank You very much Joshua, truly appreciate it !

Looking forward to it!

Loco722.

Hello there!

Thanks for the input guys.

I have re drawn the track plan and have managed to reduce the gradients to little more than 3% (3.05% to be precise) !

Of course even this plan could also change, who knows!

Thanks for the input once again !
   

Loco722.