Hello Jack,

A pleasure to meet you. I have already posted an order to Parkside Dundas for the body kit of 'Edward Thomas,' however I neglected to check into ordering a trailing wheel set from them before placing the order.

I do have a few questions for you regarding Parkside- How do I know if the kit I ordered was in stock. I recieved a confirmation email discussing payment options, but it mentioned nothing of my product being in stock. No doubt such kits are a very limited run, so I am somewhat concerned about the dreaded back order factor. Do have any information that could help me?

Also, I have considerable experience with model railroads and grew up with the Thomas TV Series as a kid, and later discovered the original Railway Series. Lately, I have decided to turn my modeling efforts to the Mid Sodor Railway to recreate fond childhood memories. As such I'm sure I'll have lots of questions as this is my first narrow gauge attempt.

I have recently joined the SMRF and I am known there as railjoiner.

Again, thanks for your help.

Michael

In your case, that is what it means. Given the size of your layout, you would need only one more rerailer connection more for the sake of redundancy than anything else.

The black direction box is the controller for the machine. The mechanism itself is already installed and found underneath the turnout itself.

Glad to be of help.

Another note, my bad about the other topic you looked at, although they are EZ track, you still do not need to worry because you are running on a dc power pack, and not digital command control.

You will not need to worry about wiring your turnouts given the size of your layout and the fact that they are EZ track. The post you read had to deal with atlas brand switches which feature an unpowered frog that must be wired separately via a current reversing switch if the modeler wants the frog powered-no need to worry about that.

The only wiring you have to worry about is if you want to control your switches via the built in switch machine (optional), and of course the minimum of two feeders from the power pack to the mainline. 

One additional piece of advice would be to run more than one set of feeders from the power pack to the main for better conductivity.

Clear blocks ahead,

Michael

My current layout plan calls for a 3-6 stall roundhouse on northbound terminus of my line, I plan on using the atlas turntable/roundhouse for the sake of simplicity. I have a limited space but I would prefer 6 stalls if possible. Therefore, I ask anybody who knows the roundhouse footprint dimensions to please list the information on this thread. I already have the turntable and know that it's diameter is 7 and 1/2 inches. Is it safe to assume that the round house stalls are the same?

Never mind the previous question, found the chassis guide on the site. Does Bachmann still make an 0-4-0 chassis? and if not, would the 0-6-0 be an acceptable substitute?

Thanks awfully for the hyperlinks. Also, what would be an acceptable chassis for 'edward thomas?'  Right now it's just a pipe dream of mine, but still...

To anyone with experience in 009, I am very interested in making reproductions of Stuart and Falcon as they were on Duke's old railway and have been looking for commercial body kits available.

I am particularly interested in Stuart so if anyone could point me in the direction of Kerr Stuart Tattoo class locomotive body kits and matching mechanisms available to U.S. modelers, I would appreciate it.

NCC-1701

Thank you very much.

Thank you for the picture-this helps a lot. In response to your question, I have had experience with, DZ123 and DZ143 decoders, and the DZ143 decoder seems to provide smoother speed control. This may just be a figment of my imagination.

Would the board of  a DZ143, be any larger than a 123?- Even with some of the heat shrink trimmed off of the end, it just dosen't want to fit in the cavity. Is there any danger of a short with the end of board touching the frame with the very end of the heat shrink trimmed?

Thank you very much, I will try the 143 if I have to and get a 125 if that won't work.

My current locomotive project includes hardwiring a locomotive. This is the first time I have done this, and I am clear on all the issues involved except the unique problem of smaller scales in regard to physically fitting the decoder into the locomotive shell. The loco is a dcc ready spectrum 2-8-0 in N scale and the decoder is a digitrax dz-143 decoder. Anyway I see it, I will need to shave some weight off of the cast frame.

I really do not want to do this! I have had very bad experiences with metal filings and motors, and I have no Idea how to disasember a steam locomotive and put it back together again with her drivers in quarter.

I don't know about your question of using an alternative type truck for your loco, but in the case that would not work, I can only suggest that you get the contact information from this site and simply ship your locomotive to bachmann industries. (If you filled out the warranty card) There may be a repair/replacement charge, but in my experience (I have done this several times) it has never failed me.

However, I hope you can perform that little operation of yours nonetheless.

Off topic, nontheless,

Why use a tricorder when you can bring the hooded viewer to bear?!

There is a chance that I will be there. At this point, I really don't know. If I am, it would be on that Saturday and I would probably be wearing a black fedora.