Will do Bill and thanks for the heads-up. 

Garry

Wow !  Thanks Adam.  Those are beauties.  Looks like the 81095 will be the best match with my 90011 paint scheme.  I love the looks of those  chassis with the metal side rods and valve gear.  I'm placing one on order as soon as I finish this post.

Garry 

Hello Bill,
    Thanks for the reply and thanks for all of the great info you've provided to the forum concerning these great locos.  There's so much great info provided that it's overwhelmed the "hard drive" between my ears.  I'll have to keep that post handy with a bookmark.   
     I watched a YouTube video recently that describes replacing the chassis on a Loco just like mine.  I was especially interested in it because the author mentioned that it had metal valve gear and side rods. I got really excited about installing one (a V6?) into my loco.  Sadly, when I looked at the Bachman site, there were none to be had.   However, in your June 27 post, I notice that you mentioned new/upcoming versions V5A, V5B, and V7.  I'm in no real hurry since my #49 is still in excellent condition but, if a new series of chassis with metal valve gear and/or upgraded motor & drive train come available I'd like to grab one.  Any news about the possibility of those coming available?   

Thanks again,
RJ
(aka Garry)

Hello Big Hauler fans. 
My Big Hauler is a V2, I think (#90011), that runs fine, very smooth too but, a bit noisy.  It has had very little use over the years and the drive train is very clean with the factory grease still on it.  No damage or wear could be seen when I opened up the bottom to check the chuff sensor.  BTW, I can turn the drive wheels manually.

If I wanted to put a new chassis under old #49, which one should I buy.  None of the model numbers on the Bachman web site match my model number (90011).  The version 5 (or later) chassis appear to have some desirable updates.  I have plans to put much more time on the old #49 in the future as I'm mulling over a garden railroad installation. 

Thanks,
RJ

Gene,
    What's the cut-off date for Old vs. New on these locos?  I have one in my sights at a local hobby store but, can't see a date of mfg. on the box.  It would be a perfect fit on my layout as a general work-horse.  I plan to convert it to DCC also.  Someone on another thread posted an excellent link to instructions on the conversion for this loco. 
     If it's an old one and doesn't run well, I guess I could always return it for repair under Bachman's excellent warranty and get a new verrsion?

Thanks,
RJ

One time I built a house in a week with a pair of tweezers and a flat rock and I had two broken arms and a headache.   

Sheesh, you guys take the cake.  Your idea of quality went out with high-button shoes and is far below what is acceptable today.  If you want to repair your locos yourself instead of return them for warranty work, knock yourselves out.  As for me, I'll return it to the mfg. for warranty repair and when the warranty runs out, I'll fix it myself ... if needed.

Some of you more "experienced" model railroaders have been a large help to many folks new to the hobby.  However, your superiority complex really turns people off.  Perhaps it's time you passed the baton to someone who can keep their ego in check.  Thanks for the help but, since it comes with the attitude ... there's the door.  Don't let it hit you on the way out.

Frankly, I don't know why I bothered posting anything here.  I should have listened to my firends who have posted here.  They were right.  All I got in return were snide remarks made by egotistical know-it-alls who look down on folks who believe in making the mfg. responsible for the defects in their product.

Sincerely,
RJ
 

     I've been involved in this hobby since May this year and was not aware of the defects that some locomoitves come with from the mfg.  I expected to pay my money and throw them on the rails and have it run for at least a year providiing regular preventive maint. is performed.  Looks like I expected too much in the case of Bachman steam locomotives.
     Now, I'm a bit more experienced and a tiny bit wiser and will perform the inspection that you describe.  I have some mechanical skill but, I wouldn't call myself a craftsman.  I'm a "remove and replace" kind of guy.  I do very little parts fabricating or repairing.  I can make a decent solder joint as I've had training and experience at it but, these tiny wires are a challenge even with a quality soldering staation, small tip, and small solder.
I just performed a baisc "field strip" of a Proto 2000 FA1 unit to find and  repair a short circuit.  I found one broken wire and resoldered it but, that didn't seem to fix the short.  I sprayed the heck out of the contacts, motor brushes, etc. with electrosolve and tested it and found that the probelm was gone.  I lubricated all moving parts and reassembled the loco and ran it with the "B" unit for at least an hour this evening. 
     I shouldn't complain too loudly because I bought this locomotvie at a very good price on-line.  However, I didn't expect it have poor quality parts and require early repair.  It is, after all, one of Bachman's "top of the lline" locos. 
     I'm not asking Bachman to make custom modifications to my locomotive, I'm asking them to improve two important parts on this product.  Yampa Bob has given "us" the "fix" for protecting the fragile wires but, the issue of the unprotected and fragile "wipers" is still there.  Will I have to return it for repair again in 2 months?  I certainly hope not BUT, I will if that's what it takes to keep it running.  I LIKE this locomotive and want to keep it in serviceable condition for a long time.  I'd also like to run it on my layout often ... like everyday for an hour or more.  If it won't stand up to that, I won't be buying Bachman products anymoe.

RJ 

Burly,
     Last week my 2 month old Spectrum steam locomotive broke so, I emailed Bachman service and asked about repair.   They answered my email within two days and told me to fill out the on-line serivce form and send it, the locomotive, and a copy of my receipt ... which I did.  I'm waiting now for repair or replacement.
     My experience with their service dept., so far, has been good but, that's not to say they are always that quick to respond.  I also have a "standard" quality Bachman steam loco that I needed replacement parts for (I broke it).  It's an older, our of production, loco and it took about 6 weeks for them to reply.  I was surprised one evening when they called me at home and told me they had the parts and how much they cost.  They were surprisingly inexpensive and I bought them.
     I agree with the other fella that the Spectrum line is the best way to go when buying Bachman steam locomotives.  Don't know about the diesels because I don't have any.  They are not without flaws but, most can be overcome. 
     Frankly, there are other brands that are more durable and hold up better for children, who tend to be a bit rougher on toys than an adult would be.
     
RJ

PN,
    Gee, that news is sort of disappointing.  Instead of replacement, I was hoping they would repair it and improve the durability of those two issues.  The wipers need to be moved in toward the axles to protect them in case of a derail.  They should not be located where they are now ... it's like they planned for the wipers to get beat up and eventually break.  The engineer who came up with that briliant (not) idea should be looking for a new job ... maybe in a clothes pin factory. 
     Yampa Bob's fix of putting a piece of tubing (snug fitting) on the draw bar pin is a very easy fix for anyone to do but, we shouldn't have to go to that trouble.  The factory should provide a removable "keeper" of some sort. 
     If anyone has a fix for the "wiper" issue, please let me know.  If they replace rather than repair mine, I'll need some help doing the modification.  It's such a nice locomotive and I'd like to keep it working for a long time.

RJ

If I didn't intend to buy more of the Spectrum line of locos I wouldn't bother with recommendations to make them better.  My Heavy Mountian is the only Spectrum loco I own (although I have a "standard" quality also) and I'm impressed with the detail, smoothness, and overall performance of the loco.  However, I'm disappointed in the porr durability of the parts I disussed.

RJ

Yampa Bob,
Thanks for the tip on the shrink tubing.  It's a great idea and I happen to have the ideal size on hand.

I understand your point about the flexibility of the wires but, there are other wires and connectors available that would meet the flexibility and durability requirements.  I modified an "old" model War Baby 4-8-4 (with split chasis) for DCC and mounted both motor and sound decoders in the tender which required a pair of wires from the locomotive to the tender.  I happened to have an old pair of lightweight ear phones and stole the wire I needed from them.  It's very flexible and much sturdier than that supplied by the factory (strain relief applied at both ends).  I would be happy to pay a small increase in price for more durable wire and connectors. 
However, the bottom line is strain relief.  Why should we have to provide something the factory should provide?  It probably all comes down to money but, the little saved in NOT providing it costs them double or triple in warranty repair.  How many folks buy these locomotives and don't have the skills or know-how to apply the modification you recommend?

On the issue of the wipers, a more durable alloy would allow them to keep thickness the same.  In any case, I still say they are poor quality.  Maybe the wipers on my locomotive were from a bad batch.  If you had seen the condiion of them you would likely agree with me.  I certainly appreciate the fact that they provide electrical pick-up on all wheels and the tender but, the locatioin of the wipers (on the outside of the inner drive wheels) was not well thought out.  They are vulnerable to damage when (not if) a derail occurs. 
 
As I said before, when the loco is working it is a beautiful piece of machinery and I have enjoyed owning and running it.  However, when I buy a company's "best" product I expect good quality and longevity.  I got neither.  These two issues seriously detract from an otherwise great product. 

RJ

Hello Bach Man,
    I've sent my new (purchased in late June 2008) Spectrum 4-8-2 Heavy Mountain to your repair department for warranty repair of defects due to poor (or incomplete) design and inferior materials.  The tiny and fragile  wires from the tender to the locomotive have broken and the "wipers" (electrical pick-ups) on the drive wheels are bent and broken. 
     Perhaps you could suggest to the engrineering and mfg. depts. that they resolve the following issues:

     1.  Use tougher wires and connectors and/or provide strain relief between the locomotive and tender.  When the loco and tender separate (during a derail) the tender is dragged by the wires which puts stress on them and causes them to break at the connectors.  Some sort of "safety chain" or perhaps a "c" clip on the tender draw bar post to prevent it from coming off the draw bar would resolve the issue.

     2.  Use thicker and less brittle "wipers" to carry voltage from the drive wheels to the motor, etc.

I'm 61 yrs.  old and the only person who has operated this locomotive.  It has not been abused ...just operated.  When it is serviceable, it is the smoothest and strongest single locomoitve in my line-up.  Only a Proto 2000 A&B unit (both powered) can match it for pulling power.  It is a beautiful example of the prototype however, the above listed defects need to be addressed before I can recommend it to anyone else. 
I'm very dissappointed in the short life span of these parts and it does not bode well for future sales of your Spectrum line.  I expected to get far longer service from this locomotive before it needed repair.  Please bring these issues to your company management.

Sincerely,
Garry

Well folks, I've finally decided between the two Bachman steamers I own (War Baby and Heavy Mountain) and the Spectrum Heavy Mountain (4-8-2) wins hands down.  Not only is the quaity better but, it is one heavy duty hauler ... very powerful.  The War Baby is nice but, not in the same class operationally.

RJ

Wazmau,
  I run an A&B pair also but, have never had the problem you describe.  I run two identical decoders made by Digitrax and the only problem I've had was the B unit reprograming itself in various CVs occassionally (caused by OPS mode programming other locos I think).
   EXCEPT ... when I first got the decoders installed I programmed the A unit with it's road number and the B unit with the same road number plus 1 (eg.  A = 1500 and B = 1501).  I consisted them but, ran into "odd" behavior.  I reprogrammed both deocoders to the same road number (eg.  A&B = 1500) and the odd behavior stopped.  I can't explain it but, I haven't had a problem since except the above mentioned occassional self reprograming.   
  So, you might try programming them both to the same road number.  It works for me but, I'm a rookie at this game.

Good Luck,
RJ

Hello SteamGene,
   Not sure what size "medium" is but, I put a sound chip in a the vandy tender behind my SP Heavy Mountain ...the Spectrum version.  I used a soundtraxx SDX chip and a 1" speaker with a home-made baffle.  For the baffle I used flexible plastic appropriated from an old tupperware "type" container ...the bowl was thin and very flexible.  I cut a strip 1" wide and long enough to wrap around the circumference of the speaker with a bit of overlap for fastening/gluing.  I then cut a circle out of the plastic lid (same container) and glued it on the back of the cylinder/tube I fabricated. The speaker is mounted about half way down the tube/cylinder and glued in place.  It all fit inside the tender without modifying it.  The power pick-up is in the tender so the install was easy with a bit of soldering.  Other than the fact that I used the wrong speaker (soon to be remedied) it works very well.  Oh, by the way ... you'll have to drill about 25 or 30 small holes iin the front of the tender to get the sound out but, if you're careful it will go well.

Good Luck,
RJ