Not stall current - please read my post again (I did specify RUNNING current), I wanted the DC resistance of the motor as I measured mine at 5ohms.

Lubrication will NOT help - having now removed the motor I can see a heap of black gunk around the commutator (after only about 1 hour's running or less).  Someone at the factory seems to have drowned it in oil and the conductive gunk, a mixture of dry oil and carbon, is clearly (maybe not the best word here) a good conductor.  A poor advertisement for what should have been Bachmann's upper quality loco.

Hope you other users do not have the same problem...

P

Can someone please confirm what the motor resistance should be?  I have about 5 ohms which seems far too low and the running current is about 1A! But it runs ok in spite of this.

With thanks

Peter

Many thanks, Wounded Bear.  I just needed reassurance!

In addition to the two stay rods, the two pipes connecting the valvegear to the boiler had to be disconnected, but all is good.  Now it's just a matter of refitting all the miscellaneous stuff beneath the cab and then the 4 pipes....

Thank again,

Peter

Thanks Trainman.  I have the exploded drawing but what I need is the procedure for disassembly - this was not included with the drawing supplied with the loco and it is not clear to me what needs to be removed to get the boiler shell free from the main frame.

Can anyone help?

Peter

Please tell me the procedure for disassembling the loco so that I can check the motor and its wiring.

With thanks,

Peter

Thank you for your help.  It was quite stiff to move at the front end but brute force did the trick!  Didn't really need to remove the front screws, just the two at the rear, pull down and then ease the running gear section backwards out of the boiler section.

Please can someone tell me how to disassemble this loco so that I can replace the headlight bulb?

With thanks

Peter

Many thanks again to Richardl and WhizKid for your helpful posts.

I have a copy of the tender exploded view but it does not help with disassembly.  I will try to remove the rear end as suggested.

HOWEVER, I must admit to having jumped the gun a little...  When I tested the resistance across the 2-pin connection on the loco I saw about 40 ohms and just assumed that that was the motor connection.  Then disassembled the loco and checked the motor resistance - no connection!  Very surprised I was.  Not sure why the wheel - wheel resistance was so low, it was much higher when I re-checked it.  Anyway, I am surprised that there was a motor problem as the loco has not had much use, probably a couple of hours at most.  Took it out and got it running again, gave it a little bit of oil and reassembled it.  So there we are. 

Thank you once again.

Peter

Thanks for your very prompt reply.

Sadly, the tender on my loco (Bachmann #84204) is not the same as the one which you referred me to, which is #84202.  There is no curved bottom which is shown as removable in the 84202 diagram, the bottom is flat and there is only one screw at the end of the underside, at the coupling end.

The loco stopped running although the sound is fine.  The motor is also fine but there is no dc from the tender plug and it is impossible to read CVs so it seems that the decoder is not seeing the motor.  I suspect a broken motor wire within the tender but cannot see how to open it.

Any further help would be much appreciated.

Peter

Please tell me how to open up the tender - the sound decoder has a fault and needs to be replaced.

With thanks
Peter