I'm looking for a schematic of the Annie, so Dad and I can install a radio control system.  I'm not sure what version it is, but the item # is 81099.

Specifically, we're looking to set up a system (using easily accessible connector plugs and sockets) that lets us:
1) Use track power and control speed with a power pack
2) Use track power with radio control
3) and Radio control with battery power

The Locolink receiver is only rated for a Max voltage of 18V, so we also need some way to reduce the voltage from the 21V battery we have.

Thanks,
-Chris R

Oftentimes the value is exactly what someone will pay for it.  It's like selling a stack of old magazines.

I understand that electric energy is produced when the traction motors are turned, which is then sent through resistors making the wheels difficult to turn, but I'd like to know where the electricity continues after the resistors.  Back to the traction motors, or to somewhere else to be grounded?

After experiencing some losses in my family, I gained a much greater appreciation of death's magnitude.  Considering the people who lost their lives in the effort to create what the USA is today, I re-evaluated my outlook on the world around me.  They sacrificed their lives to allow the rest of us to have opportunities, many of which cannot be found anywhere else on the planet, and so by disregarding said opportunities, are we negating the reason for their deaths?  Freedom isn't free, so I feel indebted to the ones who payed my share for me.  I've gotten more motivated to do better in school, because missing assignments make me feel a little guilty.
Take a look around and contemplate what is available to you by the cooperation of brilliant minds and the sacrifices of brave soldiers who decided to make a difference 231 years ago.

Next week is spring break, and Dad and I are heading out to the Sandpatch grade.  Anyone have any suggestions for lodging, preferably close to or even trackside?

I'm pretty sure that one must always pour ACID INTO WATER, never the other way around, because the reaction can cause a small explosion, sending chemicals everywhere.  I'm not sure, but someone will have to verify this.

You could also use the gap to run feeder wires underneath the track, so they're easily accessible.

Rounding the edges creates a drop-off, and the ballast will take its own, natural bevel.  Leaving the pre-cut bevel will show through and look bad, because the rock just slides down the smooth angled surface.  Pelle Soeborg has an article on laying track perfectly in a previous Model Railroader issue, though it concentrates on modelling well-maintained track, there's some good information applicable to all types of track-work.

The most recent Model Railroader's article shows the fine ballast coming up even with the ties, which to me looks more like a paved surface.  Using a coarser (but not too coarse) ballast and leaving a very small distance between the tops of the ties and ballast, looks much better.

If it is part of a real caboose, it must have been modified, because some things aren't the same as the real thing, like the brake wheel pointed to the outside.

I Found this website and was wondering about their work.

http://www.eddystonelocomotives.com/index.htm

Does anyone have any information on them?  Are their models "better than brass"?  I would like to be sure about them before considering to buy from them.