Check out my layout I designed.  It is a triple-track DCC model railroad using Bachmann EZ-track.  The curves are the following from the inside out: 15-, 18-. and 22-inch radii, plus spurs for industries.

~Dennis~

Daniel:

I own an Atlas Master Gold Series Dash 8-40CW.  The locomotive comes with lighted ditch lights, full cab interior, sound, dcc, exquisite detailing, and great pulling power.  The Bachmann version does not have working ditch lights, is less powerful, and makes more noise.  People I have spoken to about the Bachmann model say it is subpar.  As far as the # of functions, most decoders from Bachmann control speed, direction, and lights.  They don't have any additional functions because they are not designed to take extra functions.  You would have to get a new decoder.

My Atlas locomotive is $250.00 with sound and DCC.  Standard DC versions (DCC ready) are $140.00,  That is retail.  You can get them for less on internettrains.com or discountrails.com.  Happy model railroading.

~Dennis~

NS1202

Try the following three fixes:

1.) Reset the EZ Command System, place the locomotie on the tracks, and choose an address.  If the locomotive responds, you have solved the problem.

2.) Take your locomotive apart, and examine the moving parts for wear, dirt, hair, or any other foreign substance.

3.) Finally, check all possible areas for loose contacts, connections, or even dirty wheels. 

If you have done all of these things mentioned, then ignore my message.  I would recommend sending the locomotive back to Bachmann, or sending it to a DCC specialist store, like Tony's Train Exchange, for them to repair and/or diagnose your problem.

I hope this hleps.

~Dennis~

Hello everyone.  I am modelling the Union Pacific's current excursion train consist pulled by FEF-3 4-8-4 Northern #844.  The consist calls for an auxiliary water tender, 60 foot double plugdoor express boxcar, and a track inspection car.  I know Bachmann sells auxiliary water tenders, but not for Union Pacific.  Anyone have any ideas on how to get my hands on one of these tenders, as well as the other cars mentioned?

Before sending off your things to the repair department, let me refresh you with the programming steps with the Bachmann ez command system.

1.)  With the ez-command controller on, press and hold button 3 and stop button and simultaneously release the buttons.  The red light will flash quickly. 
2.)  Set locomotive on the track and choose and address, like 4.  After you press 4, the locomotive will acknowledge the address change by short movement.  The red light is now flashing slowly. 
3.)  Press the Stop Button.  The red light is now steady. 
4.)  With 4 selected, press the function button and then press button 10 to turn on the lights.  Now move the throttle on the controller.  If the locomotive moves, your problem is solved.  If your locomotive does not move, then send off the locomotive and command controller.

I hope this helps.

HoboJim:

I ran across the same problem on my 4 X 8 using ez-track.  It is very possible that the railjoiners are loose.  If there are any bends, kinks, or dirty areas in the contact points on any part of the layout, you can have the problem.  Also, recalling my problems, the 1/3 of the track where the train doesn't work, may not be the problem area at all.  Examine each piece of track carefully for any discrepancies.

The locomotive wheels, if they are dirty, can cause the locomotive to pause, slow down, or stop completely anywhere on the layout, so if it is just that one 1/3, then dirty wheels mostly is not the problem.

I have plenty of ez-track with gray roadbed.  How much are you willing to pay per piece?  Please email me with your response.

Quick question:  Did you check to see if the locomotive run at the same speed without a decoder?  If not, then the decoder difference is not an issue.  The only difference between the two decoders is that one is six-function and the other is 2-function.  For speed, direction, and lighting, you need three functions or more.  http://www.digitrax.com is a great webste and on there you can find out exactly how to program the locomotives to run at the same speed.  I recommend purchasing the Digitrax Zephyr DCC starter kit.    The manual takes you step by step in programming the different CVs.  I hope this helps.

Before you can come up with a plan, you need to decide what you want.  Do you want single, double, or triple-mainline running?  Do you want a switching layout?  Do you want a through layout?  Depending on your answer, there are several plans available.  Let me share some with you.

I have a 4 X 8 sheet of plywood.  I have created four different plans for this space.  One is a triple track mainline with three industrial tracks.  Another is a double-track with three industrial tracks, Another is a single-mainline with two industrial tracks, and the last one is a single track main with two passing sidings (mini yard).

To accomplish the triple track mainline on the 4 X 8, I used 15" radius on the inside, 18 in the middle, and 22 for the outer.  I used #5 remote switches to connect each track.

I hope this will give you a good start on your layout planning.  Please contact me if you have additional questions.

I think I can help you out. 

If you bought the Chattanooga Train Set, you have enough track to fill a 40" X 60" area.  The set comes with 18-inch radius curves.  The locomotive in the set has three drive axles.  Most modelers recommend using 22" radius track for any locomotive with three or more axles per truck.  There is no track plan guide that I know of for Bachmann ez-track.  I suggest taking the measurements of the area you have designated for your layout.

Email me with the measurements and I can figure out a good plan for you.  I use Bachmann ez-track, so I know what the minimum specs are.  I hope this helps.

Hello Grumpy.

Before you can think about installing sound, you have to look inside and see if there is room for a speaker.  Most locomotives need to have milling done to make room.  Some locomotives, especially wide-body versions make adding sound easier, like an F40PH or F7. 

For DCC steam locomotives, everybody I know recommends tsunami sound decoders.  They are $100, but the best money can buy.  You can use MRC sound decoders, but they have limited functions and most will not run in DC.  If adding sound in a diesel, I recommend using SoundTraxx sound decoders.  The decoder is big and barely fits in my Kato SD40-2. 

A good reference is http://www.tonystrainexchange.com.  They are DCC specialists and can answer just about any of your questions regarding DCC and sound.

One other note.  If you are using decoders with three or less functions, adding sound is not recommended.  You could fry the decoder.  Decoders with a 1 amp rating can handle minimal sounds, but are not reliable.  I recommend using decoders rated at 2 or more amps for sound.

I hope this helps.