I purchased a used 2-6-0 mogul recently and when I tried to run it - it stopped abruptly at the first turnout.  There is a pair of pins inside the center (unflanged) drive wheels which are spaced too close together to go thru the frog flangeway.  I turned the engine over and took off the bracket with the pins.  It runs thru the turnouts now.  Someone obviously thought these pins were necessary.  Is it okay to run without them?  Did others have this problem or is it my turnouts? Thanks.

Wilson,
Hope this isn't way too long.  Because of the resistors the combine w/ 2 lights and the coach w/ 3 lights have the same brightness- but the battery in the combine will last longer.  On the LED page of superbrightLEDs.com click on "buy now".  You will find the warm white 7035 LED a short way down- scroll to near the bottom and you will find the clear lenses.  Under "LED info" you will find the resistor wizard.  (click on the one for series/parallel).  The figures to fill in are 9 for voltage source, 3.2 forward voltage, 20 for MA current.  Tell it the number of lights you want- 2 or 3 are enough.  You will find you need one 150 ohm 1/4 watt resistor for 2 of these LEDs.  3 lights require another resistor or two and more soldering.  The LEDs don't come with resistors- you have to do the wiring.  The wizard provides a wiring diagram.  I unscrewed the car from the bottom, then unscrewed the roof.  I used plastic cement to melt the connections of the longitudinal plastic thing the color of the upper windows- and discarded it.  I cut the wires to the existing lights and removed the lights.  I cut a piece of thin white styrene for each light, about an inch wide and a little longer than the width of the upper ceiling, so it will spring into place.  The styrene should have a 1/4" hole drilled in the center for the lens.  Do your wiring.  When the wiring is done, insert the LED into the lens already mounted in the styrene and bend the styrene to put it against the ceiling above the roof windows - it will bow down slightly in the center.  To test my wiring before putting all of those screws back in, I used a 9V battery and a 9V battery snap connector with leads.  Touch the leads to the contacts on the car.  About half my cars had red wires for positive and about half red negative.  Check this before you do your wiring.  I don't know if it would make a difference- but I didn't want to have to do the wiring over if it did.  SuperbrightLEDs doesn't sell resistors- you have to get them from another source and you will need a small amount of 26 or 28 gauge wire.  Someone on the old forum said it took them about 1/2 hour per car to change to LEDs- takes me about 3 times that.  Good luck.  CONC

Straight version- no sound.  I think they want another $200 for the sound version.  I have ordered from them several times and haven't had any problems. 

I'm not traindude- but I'm the one who mentioned superbrightleds.com.  The lights I ordered were RL5-WW7035.  The lens don't have a part number on my invoice, they are listed as LED lens mount-clear.  Hope this helps.  CONC

Hello.

I really am a newbie even tho I have been an observer for months.  I was going to go to track powered lighting but decided on keeping the 9V batteries in my cars and using LEDs after following the threads on the old forum.  Check out superbrightleds.com.  They have a warm white LED with a 35 degree cone of light (most are 20).  They also sell little plastic lenses that difuse the light and make mounting easier.  And they have a resistor sizing "wizard".  I put 2 lights in the combine and 3 in the coaches.  I'm real pleased with the results and batteries last a long time.  Cost was less than $5 per car.