(3) sections of 11.25' curve equals a 90-degree turn...

As the track radius increases...so do the number of sections it takes to make a 90...but they always make a 90-degree turn

My layout has every radius from 11.25" to 19" in a L-shape...

You just need to adjust the lengths using shorter or longer sections until the curves match

Beginner's Hint:  Lay out the curves first...then add straight sections to connect to them

I believe that CV29 Bit 4 sets the NDOT to Rev...that needs to be ON

But if You cannot connect to the decoder You will need to resolve that issue first

You're in luck !!!  I just completed a full set conversion of Bachmann's 1776-1976 Bicentennial cars to Kadee 148 couplers w/Tichy Trucks/wheels.

The plastic "rivet" is just a pin...pry them out with a small screwdriver

The ends of the chassis is perfect for the coupler boxes.

Glue the boxes to the end - drill the hole for the coupler screw - drill out the holes thru the weight block - use a 3mm bolt to hold the trucks on - with a 3mm washer as a spacer - then the coupler height is perfect

I replaced the weight block with a shorter/thicker - so I wouldn't have to drill/tap thru metal

I just finished presenting a Bachmann GP40 (RN#3001) from the Rail Chief Set to it's owner...converted to DCC using the Digitrax DH127D decoder...after finishing the same decoder replacement on two of My own Bachmann SD40-2's

It's a "wire-in" style since Bachmann does not make "drop-in decoder" readiness for the GP40

If You are handy with a soldering iron it should be no problem...just remember to use resistors inline for the lights

If not...and You don't have someone locally to assist - I'd sure be willing to work something out

I have been an N-scale modeler for more than a year...but recently rebuilt My R&D layout to include an HO outer loop

I bought (3) Bachmann SD40-2's w DCC OnBoard...and they will each pull the daylights out of a 10-car train at NMRA standard weights

Digitrax DCS52 @ SP-30 = 56 scale mph... @ SP-40 is 68 mph

Consist of 2 = 73 mph so they don't even breathe hard all alone

Anyone able to enlighten Me on how to remove the shell of the SD40-2?  (60916)

Much to our surprise...

We have discovered that connecting the green wires from every pair of switches to 3 positions on a terminal block...then connecting the other side of the terminal block to the switch control...operates both switches with one controller

Using the terminal blocks allows for easy replacement if/when needed - also facilitates swapping outer wires if they are connected "out of phase" (one open - other closed) - without a huge soldering mess

And it doesn't even need to be a DCC switch box - we can manually throw a single standard turnout switch and 2 turnouts will activate...even when the only available power source is DCC track power

My guess is that the only reason to use the DCC Switch Control Box is to utilize DCC Command Station or automated switching - in our case it's much easier to simply flip the switch manually and let the DCS52 control the trains

If You Search eBay for "Bachmann Turntable" You will likely find the 5-stall roundhouse designed for EZ track

EDIT:  My Badd...I saw one earlier today when I was thinking HO scale

Flip the turnout over and look at the two wires than do not connect to anything electrical - put them both on the same tiny screw - that will "power the frog" and may well solve Your problem

I am not 100% sure what You are asking...but crossover switches have (2) slide levers...have You tried sliding one or the other to bring them back into sync?  Or...You might need to flip one green wire "upside down" and reconnect it.

I am currently working a friend's HO layout that has a total of (6) crossover switches and I'm going to try splicing the green wires from 2 switches to a single DCC Control Box to make it easier to keep them aligned with a single touch of the proper button.

I am planning NOT to program the switches to work from the command station...since that will complicate running trains - we'll just manually touch the DCC Box buttons.

His layout is further complicated by 3 pre-teen granddaughters who love to watch the trains...so KISS (Keep It Silly Simple) is the route

The 30-degree crossing can be difficult sometimes...depending on available layout space.  In order to "bring it back" into alignment for parallel tracks requires (4) 15-degree sections. (I have a 30-degree crossing on the N Scale portion of My own layout)

You might want to consider scrapping the crossover idea and simply use the Over/Under as an outer loop - flip the power connection on one loop and DC trains will run in opposite directions.

Bachmann EZ Track is designed to do some amazing things if You explore all the options...and You can actually "create" an exact length track section using a longer section if needed.

I am helping a friend set up his new HO layout...and we are wondering if we can use the normal directional switch box along with the DCC box to control switch pairs of the crossover turnouts

We would like to be able to throw two switches with one DCC Control Box (44949)

Ideas?  Suggestions?  Alternatives?

@trainman203 - CV2 is the start voltage...determining the motor speed at step 1
I have never seen any factory or installed decoder with a default CV2 setting of 0
In fact...most mfgr's recommend anywhere from 2 to 26 for CV2 depending on the typical use of the loco
I already have CV3 and CV4 set where I want them tyvm

@jward - Yes they are DCC OnBoard units...I kinda suspected they may not be adjustable
They are not perfectly matched but very close

I have 50+ N-scale loco's...and 5 HO...

All the HO models are Bachmann GP40's and SD40-2's...but I cannot seem to get anywhere using CV 2/5/6 to speed match

I have CV2 at 10 - CV5 at 255

The AccutrackII shows the same whether CV6 is 50 or 150

Am I missing something???