Certainly more info is needed...

Define "freeze" would be a good place to start

Do the wheels still turn?
Does the lighting work?
Do the wheels look dirty?

If it is like the MN Vikings train I had...it's likely only powered by one truck

Mine lasted a few hours at best before it gave up completely

Best scenario is a "shelf queen" for a team fan

To expand the Auto-Reversing set...You will need reversing track for every inch of length that loco's need to be running...

Any additional lengths You want to add to each end can be regular style track

Be careful...it's very easy to mess up which track goes where at first...the "powered" section is one end of the auto-reversing length and the other a/b section is the other end - loco's will only run between those 2 track sections

To lengthen the loco distance but auto-reversing track - any other added lengths can be regular track

The set only works with it's included transformer (DC)

Any loco that will operate on DC can be used

"Splitting" the set would require another transformer and another a/b track


If you are thinking N scale...I'd recommend you contact Me before buying - I have a somewhat expanded set I'd be willing to sell

The "KeepAlive" and all of it's clones have one inherent fault...

When the capacitor takes over due to bad connection or dirty track...the problem is masked until it becomes a much larger problem

A dirty track issue becomes a much bigger dirty track issue

A poor connection's location is masked by the capacitor

A derailed loco can damage alot of scenery or rolling stock before the 2-4 seconds runs out...it plods right along even after Emergency Stop

Sure...if You can disconnect one speaker wire...or have anyone (or a local club) with a programming track set F8 to ON

(3) sections of 11.25' curve equals a 90-degree turn...

As the track radius increases...so do the number of sections it takes to make a 90...but they always make a 90-degree turn

My layout has every radius from 11.25" to 19" in a L-shape...

You just need to adjust the lengths using shorter or longer sections until the curves match

Beginner's Hint:  Lay out the curves first...then add straight sections to connect to them

I believe that CV29 Bit 4 sets the NDOT to Rev...that needs to be ON

But if You cannot connect to the decoder You will need to resolve that issue first

You're in luck !!!  I just completed a full set conversion of Bachmann's 1776-1976 Bicentennial cars to Kadee 148 couplers w/Tichy Trucks/wheels.

The plastic "rivet" is just a pin...pry them out with a small screwdriver

The ends of the chassis is perfect for the coupler boxes.

Glue the boxes to the end - drill the hole for the coupler screw - drill out the holes thru the weight block - use a 3mm bolt to hold the trucks on - with a 3mm washer as a spacer - then the coupler height is perfect

I replaced the weight block with a shorter/thicker - so I wouldn't have to drill/tap thru metal

I just finished presenting a Bachmann GP40 (RN#3001) from the Rail Chief Set to it's owner...converted to DCC using the Digitrax DH127D decoder...after finishing the same decoder replacement on two of My own Bachmann SD40-2's

It's a "wire-in" style since Bachmann does not make "drop-in decoder" readiness for the GP40

If You are handy with a soldering iron it should be no problem...just remember to use resistors inline for the lights

If not...and You don't have someone locally to assist - I'd sure be willing to work something out

I have been an N-scale modeler for more than a year...but recently rebuilt My R&D layout to include an HO outer loop

I bought (3) Bachmann SD40-2's w DCC OnBoard...and they will each pull the daylights out of a 10-car train at NMRA standard weights

Digitrax DCS52 @ SP-30 = 56 scale mph... @ SP-40 is 68 mph

Consist of 2 = 73 mph so they don't even breathe hard all alone

Anyone able to enlighten Me on how to remove the shell of the SD40-2?  (60916)

Much to our surprise...

We have discovered that connecting the green wires from every pair of switches to 3 positions on a terminal block...then connecting the other side of the terminal block to the switch control...operates both switches with one controller

Using the terminal blocks allows for easy replacement if/when needed - also facilitates swapping outer wires if they are connected "out of phase" (one open - other closed) - without a huge soldering mess

And it doesn't even need to be a DCC switch box - we can manually throw a single standard turnout switch and 2 turnouts will activate...even when the only available power source is DCC track power

My guess is that the only reason to use the DCC Switch Control Box is to utilize DCC Command Station or automated switching - in our case it's much easier to simply flip the switch manually and let the DCS52 control the trains

If You Search eBay for "Bachmann Turntable" You will likely find the 5-stall roundhouse designed for EZ track

EDIT:  My Badd...I saw one earlier today when I was thinking HO scale

Flip the turnout over and look at the two wires than do not connect to anything electrical - put them both on the same tiny screw - that will "power the frog" and may well solve Your problem

I am not 100% sure what You are asking...but crossover switches have (2) slide levers...have You tried sliding one or the other to bring them back into sync?  Or...You might need to flip one green wire "upside down" and reconnect it.

I am currently working a friend's HO layout that has a total of (6) crossover switches and I'm going to try splicing the green wires from 2 switches to a single DCC Control Box to make it easier to keep them aligned with a single touch of the proper button.

I am planning NOT to program the switches to work from the command station...since that will complicate running trains - we'll just manually touch the DCC Box buttons.

His layout is further complicated by 3 pre-teen granddaughters who love to watch the trains...so KISS (Keep It Silly Simple) is the route