I saw this and agreed with the responses above that EZ track doesn't convert to bridges easily. You pretty much have to either buy the Bachmann EZ track bridges or make your own. I appreciate the help though

I was adding weights to my 2-6-0 and metal wheels/axles for my cars today to see if I could get it to climb better. Towards the end, the engine just refuses to move now. All the DCC functions work for the most part (light won't turn on but I think it has been that way for awhile) so I know the address is working. Tried removing the last weight and didn't make a change. Tried a different section of track, nada. Cycled power to the DCC controller twice (once with the switch, again with with unplugging it), nothing.

Progression:

• Tested train with no weight
• Added weight up front, made improvement but caused nose to drag
• Added weight to rear of engine, made more improvement
• Replaced plastic axles with Bachmann metal axles. Seemed to add drag (cars did not roll as good). Ran engine for a few minutes with cars to see if the new axles needed "break in" cycle
• Added additional weight to rear of the engine. Engine no longer moves but still has sounds.

I have read that the plastic gears can break inside but I'm unsure how to take this darn thing apart to see what is inside. There are 3 screws midway on the bottom of the engine, another screw up front for the two front wheels, and 3 in the back of the engine for the tender connection wire and coupler. I see nothing on top as far as how to remove the top of the engine. I have removed the tender connection multiple times to gain better access to the rear of the engine.

Before I start removing stuff, I was hoping someone has a guide of some sort showing how this comes apart. Online wasn't a whole bunch of  help as it seems videos show trains with screws in places I don't have screws.

Quote from: Len on May 07, 2021, 11:16:30 AM
You'll find most girder bridges do not have ballast build up on them like that under the EZ-Track pieces. Which is why most of us either use the code 100 track version of other mfg's girder bridges, or scratch build our own.

Len

That is sort of what I'm looking to do (build my own). I figure if the walls "clip" on or attach to the sides of the EZ track, you will basically have the same thing as an EZ girder bridge. The EZ girder bridge looks like it is 3 pieces but I'm unsure if it will break if I try to disassemble it, think it is glued.

Sounds like it hasn't been tried which is why I'm not finding much on it.

I was wondering if anyone sales girder walls for EZ track to make an ... EZ bridge. I bought one of the 9" bridges which works fine. Though rather than buy extra track pieces (which this essentially is), I'd like to figure out how to use the EZ track I got and make it into a bridge. I did a search last night and got a bunch of girder bridge results, not the walls. I appreciate the help.

How long do you need?

Quote from: Len on April 13, 2021, 12:26:45 PM
You could use something like this to put one track directly over another:
https://itlascalemodels.com/collections/elevated-the-l/products/ho-new-york-style-2-track-elevated-starter-kit

You could even scratch build your own using styrene parts.

Len

Ok, this stuff is absolutely beautiful. Wow. I mean, my layout was only a single track but now I'm wondering if i should go to double track after seeing this. Just wow. Thank you very much.

Quote from: Terry Toenges on April 13, 2021, 12:56:26 PM
Some folks have done it.

Could you educate me for a minute? I have seen the girders sold but I have not seen them used like this (elevating the track bed up). It was always a bridge with the girders as side barriers. Is this necessary for the elevated track or was this a preference for whoever built this?

Is it possible to stack track one above another? I'm not married to my proposed layout but it is darn cool idea if it works (in my opinion). Practical in no sense of the word, no chance of this being a real scenario, but cool. I believe I know the answer but wanted to check.

Reason I ask is because Bachmann piers will block the track as will Atlas piers. If it matters, the track is for a streetcar or a trolley.

Quote from: jward on April 11, 2021, 09:19:08 AM
If you've got room, nothing is cheaper than pennies. I've used them to weight tank cars, glued in stacks then place on edge in each end of the tank. 1 oz costs you 5 cents.

This is funny. 5 cents in the cab and there is probably room for 2 more. The front deck can't hold a dime, way too small. Will have to try an alternative.

Quote from: Terry Toenges on April 11, 2021, 12:39:36 PM
I have metal wheels on all my passenger cars so they are heavier than some of the stock cars out there with plastic wheels. I guess the Bachmann train set freight cars still have plastic wheels so there is less weight for yours to pull than if the freight cars had metal wheels.

Yep, all plastic wheels and the cheap plastic couplers. I think I may end up upgrading soon once I get things the way I like.


Funny how this started with "will this bridge work" and now moving on to installing ballast. Great stuff.

Quote from: Terry Toenges on April 10, 2021, 07:08:56 PM
A lot of Bachmann locos pull much better when weight is added. I have that 2-6-0 and added some weight in the cab and the front deck. I had issues trying to pull five old time passenger cars. Once I added weight, I was able to pull nine old time passenger cars. In the video, I'm trying to see how slow I can go and still pull the cars. Since you are going to be dealing with a grade, extra weight would really help. Since the tender blocks most of the view of the cab inside, it's not that visible unless you get real close at eye level.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mf6JaSo20NI

Thank you very much for the pictures, that is super helpful! What did you use as weight if I may ask.

Quote from: Len on April 10, 2021, 01:50:06 PM
I would use regular code 100 flex track across the bridge rather than EZ-Track. That should give enough extra length to shim the ends up to match the height of the EZ-Track on it's roadbed. You could even glue in some code 83 track as 'guard rails'.

Len

For now, I'm using E-Z track as it is going to be taken apart and put together multiple times. As a noob, it is... well E-Z to do. Is the flex track capable of being pulled apart and rejoined multiple times?

Quote from: Terry Toenges on April 10, 2021, 02:08:14 PM
Single pieces of 36" E-Z Track. There are others if you look around.
https://www.amazon.com/Whistle-Stop-BAC44584-Straight-Track/dp/B005713090
http://midwestrailjunction.com/bachmann44584e-ztrack36straightns.aspx
https://www.ebay.com/p/1100527915

You even found it on Amazon... I bow to your search-fu, it is strong.

Seriously, thank you. I found some single track but the vendor websites looked old and possibly out of business.

Quote from: jward on April 10, 2021, 02:31:41 PM
I was able to find my Alco 2-6-0 which I believe is the same locomotive you have. It will pull 5 cars up the 4% grade, and 7 cars up the 3% grade. It almost made it with 8 cars, but stalled out on the curve at the very top of the grade.

So far my best puller is an Atlas Trainman GP38-2. It will pull at least 20 cars up both grades. Adding more cars than that was a moot point, because at that point the train was longer than the upgrade section.

7 cars... we have 4 right now. I can't even imagine 20.

Good stuff, looking forward to your results. And I appreciate the feedback.

Quote from: plas man on April 09, 2021, 04:49:13 PM
that bridge is lovely , the EZ track should work also I believe Bachmann make 36 inch straight EZ track

Yes they do but unfortunately they don't sell them individually. You have to buy at least 10 which is way more than I need.

Well you threw a whole bunch of information at me that I wasn't prepared for

So first, the train is the steam locomotive from the Echo Valley Express set. If the information I found on it is correct, it is a 2-6-0. So honestly I have no idea a 5% grade is too much for it or not.

Second, I have been concerned about the grade myself as I will be using 18" radius turns before and after this bridge at first. That is 56 5/8" with a 3 1/8" rise making it 5.5%. The Bachmann Figure 8 track pack had the same setup so I figured it would be fine. So much for figuring... to use a 28 pier setup will require me to redo my setup to allow for more track. Not arguing the logic though.

Lastly it is the bridge Terry posted the picture of https://www.shop.cvmw.com/200-foot-1-Track-Parker-Truss-Kit-1901.htm . Figured it would fit the era of train nicely. If it doesn't need center support, it is much more sturdy that I give it credit for. Figured with the train moving across it, it would bow as the train approached the center. Though this opens up some opportunities for other things underneath

Thanks for the replies everyone. I greatly appreciate the advice. If you have more, please let me know. I'm all ears.

New guy. New to the forum, new to model trains. If this is a silly question, go easy on me as I'm still learning.

I have been eyeballing this for my setup. Though I'm concerned about if it will work or not for what I'm doing. My first attempt will be using the E-Z track to go across the bridge.

• Support for the bridge will be on both sides and in the middle. Not sure what will work so likely this will be improvised.
• Slide 36" of E-Z track through the bridge and lie it on top. Connect the 36" of E-Z track to the rest of my track. The track will not be mechanically mounted on the bridge
• Use the Bachmann 14 pier system to create a grade to and from the bridge.

After measuring the E-Z track width, I'm thinking this should easily slide through and lay on the bridge bed. The bridge should give middle support to the E-Z Track while the piers will support the ends of the track. Being 28 1/4" long, the track will peek past the bridge by about 3 7/8" on each side. Will this work fine or is there more I need to consider?