Hi all, an update on my derailment issues.  I have removed 2 of 3 turnouts I had in my 30" x 44" wide oval layout.  The remaining turnout is on a spur.  The turnouts I have are apparently basic turnouts (parts 44861/44862).  I'd run the train in both directions and results were almost the same - loco jumped, then derailed (front truck) at the "frog" in the turnout.  I should note ,based on discussion w/Bachmann, that the loco/tender that came with my Empire Builder set is long - 9" - a 4-8-4 steam loco.  There is also a long refrig car - one that seems more prone to jumping off the track. 

Bachmann suggested do my best to level track, and I did notice a minor dip that I've addressed. They also suggested I consider a #4 (part 44863/44864) turnout or possibly #6 (44859/44860).  Inference was the length of my loco/tender was causing a problem at the sharper turnout and the #4 or #6 would be a more gradual turn.  Going to look at the "wider -(?)" turnouts and see if they will fit on my 3"x4" rigid foam foundation, covered w/ now 2-layers of grass mat.  I don't currently have another loco to run, but I do notice the one that came w/my set seems among the longest.
`Mike

Presume this auto-coupling/uncoupling is with rail cars with the EZ Mate II couplers?  My Empire Builder set came with what I believe are knuckle couplers on all stock and a bag of RAPIDO couplers.  I've since bought a log car and a "sound" steam engine that have the EZ Mate couplers.  Any reason to change couplers?

Hi DAVIS in GP!  Thanks for the thoughts.  I have two steam locomotives, a 4-8-4 that came with my set and a 2-8-4 - no diesels.  At the turnouts the loco seems to snag or jump, at about the same position noted in your pic, and the front wheels (truck-?) comes partially off the track w/derailment not far behind.  I did try running in the opposite direction with almost the same results. Took the accessories out of the track.  Calling Bachmann tomorrow!  Maybe take the turnouts (3) out.  I wanted to like this but really frustrated spending half my train time putting train back on track!  ~Mike

Looking for ideas - help!  Received an Empire Builder set as a Christmas gift - my first train.  Built a layout modeled after p.21 (Bachman Getting Started - Building Your Layout) effectively 3' x 4'.  I have track laid on 2" foam covered in Bachmann Grass Mat.  Very frustrated by derailments of the loco.  I have added a bridge and an auto RR crossing in my layout.  I've examined the track again and again at the connections and believe they are pretty smooth.  Loco seems to hesitate at the bridge and RR crossing, but the derailments generally happen at the turnouts.  I'm lucky if I can get two complete circuits before off the track, running just the loco without freight cars.  My next move is to take out the bridge and RR crossing and see if performance improves.  Appreciate any ideas.

Looking for ideas - help!  Received an Empire Builder set as a Christmas gift - my first train.  Built a layout modeled after p.21 (Bachman Getting Started - Building Your Layout) effectively 3' x 4'.  I have track laid on 2" foam covered in Bachmann Grass Mat.  Very frustrated by derailments of the loco.  I have added a bridge and an auto RR crossing in my layout.  I've examined the track again and again at the connections and believe they are pretty smooth.  Loco seems to hesitate at the bridge and RR crossing, but the derailments generally happen at the turnouts.  I'm lucky if I can get two complete circuits before off the track, running just the loco without freight cars.  My next move is to take out the bridge and RR crossing and see if performance improves.  Appreciate any ideas.

New to railroading w/Empire Builder set.  Read about installing "magnet" on EZ track, if one was included, otherwise order a magnet.  Do I need a magnet and why?  Thanks for response.

Reside in Depoe Bay, Central OR Coast.

Appreciate the thoughts!  Would have never thought about using duct tape along the edges of foam for stability/support.  Probably won't do a frame but do plan to use the grass mat on at least the top and sides of my layout.  Still tinkering w/track layout - currently on dining room table - but settled on space no larger than 3'x4'.  Not given much thought to landscape, everything is just flat for now.

New to railroading.  Received a Empire Builder set (N) and going to have a 2-1/2'x4' track layout.  Will be setting this on a little used desk, so I'll have plenty of support.  Initially I was going to lay track on 1/2" plywood and cover w/Bachmann Grass Mat.  Now, after doing some reading base material, I'm ready to ditch the plywood idea and go with a base of 2' rigid foam insulation - actually thinking of gluing 2-2" sections (32"x48") together to give some additional height, then still covering (tacking) with the Grass Mat.  Think this base will give me plenty of support and should I need to move my layout, I can geltly pick the whole thing up and move over to the bed temporarily.  Any thoughts or cautions?

Hi - I too am new to railroading, having just received an Empire Builder set (N scale).  I have purchased a DCC loco and DCC controller.  Yes I understand not to let my DC loco set on tracks after connecting the DCC controller.  Going to have a 32x44 layout and don't really anticipate running both loco's at once but maybe later.  Just received the DCC controller and am struggling.  I found the Econami DCC User Guide, but frankly (at this point) I enjoyed the sounds - and absence of frustration - of running my DCC Light Mountain "Southern" loco on my analog DC controller.  Any tips?

Also, my layout has three turnouts, must I connect the turnout controller or can I just change the tracks manually as the distance (reach) is arms length.  If manual switch is an option, I could just disconnect the wires to the turnout track.  Trying to keep the number of wires/controllers to a minimum.  Thanks.

Thank you, Maletrain.  Yes, I'm going to have about a 44"x32" flat, oval with a turnout and "spur" a layout I found in the Bachmann layout document.  With all the cars from the Empire Builder set and two more I ordered, my train is taking approx. one-third of my track - thinking too long, and will probably split between loco.  Running the original loco that came with my set, and have ordered a DCC "Light Mountain" loco (delivered) and controller (not arrived yet).  I had replaced the original loco with the DCC/Sound Value loco and running on analog controller - no more than two hours, until DCC controller arrives.  The Light Mountain loco stopped running - sound still happen but wheels will not turn.

Hi!  New to model RR - just received an Empire Builder set.  Ordered a Light Mountain loco, DCC controller, some track, and a couple of additional cars.  Probably will stay with an oval, single track layout of about 48"x24".  Wondering if there is any rule of thumb for what is a reasonable number of cars/engine or length of train/track?

Thank you.  Looks to me that what I have is (maybe) two different versions of knuckle couplers - all have rounded hooks/couplers, rather than the right angle look of the Rapido.

New to training - just received an Empire Builder set.  Ordered a couple of additional Bachmann cars and they arrived with (knuckle - ?) couplers different than what is on the cars of the Empire Builder set.  Do all couplers need to be the same?  Set included a pack of RAPIDO couplers.

I may be somewhat in the same quandry.  Just received my first train - Empire Builder Set - and have ordered another locomotive - Steam Light Mountain 4-8-2, as I wanted some sound. Plan to only operate one engine at a time, and will change out from time to time.  Will I need some additional controller?

Hello - new to training!  Just received an Empire Builder set.  I have ordered via Amazon an additional loco (4-8-2 Light Mountain DCC Sound Value) along w/some additional track, a couple of other railcars, etc. for my layout.  Have I missed something?  I plan to swap locos from time to time - space limited.  Do I need and special controller for my new "sound" loco?