You will need a sound decoder and speaker, perhaps some very fine flexible wire for the connections (tho' you might get enough wire for the install after trimming the leads on the decoder). There are several companies that make sound decoders small enough to fit into the 2-8-0 tender. Many like ESU Loksound decoders. I have been using Soundtraxx Tsunami 2 decoders in my N scale steamers (incl 2 Bachmann 4-6-0s and a 2-8-0, an FEF-3, and a challenger). Many use "sugar cube speakers" available from a number of sources (I have used those available from Streamline Back Shop AKA SBS).

Installing sound into a 2-8-0 is not terribly difficult... But there is no "drop-in" decoder (sound or otherwise) for the Bachmann 2-8-0, so converting to DCC plus sound will require "hard-wiring" the decoder and speaker. Altho' the older DC 2-8-0s had a removable weight under the loco shell that could removed to install a DCC decoder, I don't know that there is a sound decoder that would fit in the space in the loco. However, there is plenty of room in the tender for a sound decoder, speaker, and keep-alive capacitor.

I'm not going to give a step-by-step, since I haven't done this exact install (my 2-8-0 was one of the new releases, and I replaced the factory sound decoder and tender). However, you will need to route six wires between the tender and loco: 2 carrying left in right track power from the loco back to the tender, two carrying power from the decoder to the motor, and two carrying power from the decoder to the LED headlight (you may need to add a resistor to the LED circuit, to limit current and avoid blowing the LED). For more info, look at this thread: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/?topic=36608.msg435302#msg435302 . You can find more examples of DCC/sound installs into N-scale steam locos on other message boards, such as Trainboard, RailWire, and nScale.net.

Good luck!

Don't know why you couldn't see the pics... I see them on my computer. The images are hosted by a third party server (PBase). Perhaps it was down for maintenance when you looked?

Just had a thought... you might have to join (and/or log-in to) nscale.net (the discussion board where I posted the thread) to see the images.

I thought of suggesting trying to superglue a small metal retainer to the end of the pivot pin. But it is awfully tiny, and was afraid that the glue might wick into the joint itself. Then the part would be toast. I might suggest a pin point application of epoxy (much less likely to creep or wick then superglue).

Good luck!

First, here's a thread describing how I installed an MTL coupler on my (newer release) Bachmann 2-8-0: https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthread.php?45247-Adding-an-MTL-coupler-to-the-pilot-of-my-new-Bachmann-2-8-0

As for your main issue... that is the eccentric and rod linkage for the valve gear that controls the steam and exhaust valves on the cylinders. Not all locos used this style of valve gear, so unless you are a stickler for detail, it might be fine to remove it completely.

I am considering removing these linkages on my 2-8-0, because the prototype I am trying to represent didn't use this style of valve gear. I have started looking into it, and have even purchased a set of spares (more on this below) from Bachmann... but haven't actually started the work, yet, so can't give you a step-by-step. Unfortunately, the process of removing the valve gear completely doesn't look entirely trivial. Looks like you need to remove the eccentric from the rod pin, or find a way to replace the rod pin (altho' it looks outwardly like a screw, the pin appears to be a push-in installation).

As for repair... I don't know that you can easily repair the part you have... it seems that the link between the rod and the eccentric is made by a pin inserting thru a hole on the end of the tie rod, and the end of the pin is then just flattened (mashed)... no nut or other retainer. It seems that mashed end must have worn off on your loco.

But... you can order that linkage from Bachmann as part of the "cylinder assembly:" https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70_80&products_id=324&zenid=9d46ulibfnp1jhi18f8oku20s6 ...not too expensive, but it doesn't appear that the installation will be trivial, and would require some skill in working on steam locomotive mechanisms. If you aren't comfortable, you might consider sending it to Bachmann or getting the part and finding someone to repair it for you.

Good luck!

The tender shell for the 4-6-0 is not held by screws... it is just a (tight) press fit. Find the fine "crack" between the tender frame/chassis and the shell... gently slide the edge of a hobby knife into the crack, and gently wedge the shell upwards. You might have to work on both sides before it pops loose. It's likely you will loose just a little paint from the frame/chassis, which can be touched up with engine black acrylics. Good luck.

The Sound value 2-8-0 uses a Soundtraxx Economi Steam decoder. You can find the manuals for that decoder here: https://soundtraxx.com/manuals/econami-digital-sound-decoder

Note that, as the 2-8-0 comes from Bachmann, CV211 (low speed compensation) = 25. If you reset the decoder, CV211 will be set to 0, and you will need to reset it to 25.

Oops! The cylinder assbly only includes the main rods. The valve gear (L and R) are available as separate parts: https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=70_578&sort=20a&page=5&zenid=uie2nqp845s17oj9jalij2c2n4

Having removed drivers and running gear from my 4-6-0s during kitbashing, I don't think it would be hard to repair your loco (of course, I haven't seen it,so...)... and it would probably be cheaper than buying a new loco.

Yes, but it will require some basic soldering skills to make the connections to the new tender.

On the other hand, the drive wheel assembly w side rods and cylinder assembly with valve gear are both available from the Bachmann: https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=70_578&zenid=uie2nqp845s17oj9jalij2c2n4 , and replacing the damage parts should be relatively easy.

Good luck!

The method for removing the loco shell from older and newer versions of the J-class 4-8-4 can be found near the bottom of this page:http://www.spookshow.net/loco/classj.html

The first thing I suggest is talking/contacting whomever did the install. It sounds as if the decoder is not properly wired, or the decoder is bad. The factory decoder/PCB in the 4-6-0 tender should look like this (with loco at the right):



The six wires coming from the center of the board would be connected to the loco, from top to bottom:

Left track
Motor minus
Headlight minus
Headlight plus
Motor plus
Right track

When installing a new decoder, the factory PCB should be "split" along the perforations in the middle, and the back half (the decoder) removed.

Seven wires from the "new" decoder are then attached to the solder tabs "behind" the wires. The tabs are labeled, from top to bottom (using NMRA standard wire colors):

Left track (L, black)
Motor minus (M-, grey)
Backup light minus (LB-, yellow)
Light plus (L+; common function plus, blue)
Headlight minus (LF-, white)
Motor plus (M+, orange)
Right track (R, red)

Two purple wires from the decoder should connect to the speaker. if the new install includes a capacitor, it should be connected between the common function + (blue wire to the capacitor +) and ground (green/yellow wire to capacitor minus).

Good luck!

3% is a pretty steep grade... so pulling 5-6 freight cars sounds about right based on my experience. My 2-8-0 can handle 10-11 on a 1.8% grade before it spins its wheels.

As bnoem said... pack in as much weight as you can.  You can even pack some into the stack, in the cab (if kept below the level of the windows, and in the forward part of the cab, it won't be visible). But, I'm guessing you will only be able to increase by maybe a freight car of two, at best...

Also, make sure all your rolling stock has good wheels/trucks...

I found that my two Bachmann 4-6-0s actually (slightly) outpulled my 2-8-0 when new, likely due to their cast metal superstructure. They would handle 12-14 freight cars on my 1.8% hill. They've lost a little tractive effort since then... one because I had to replace the traction tires, the other because it lost some of its weight in a "remodel."

Good luck...

TOO FAST!

Let me elaborate a little on that... with the caveat that I have never run my two 4-6-0s on DC. But, perhaps I can give you one data point that will help with your question.

According to its specs, my DCC controller provides a track voltage of about 14V. I have set the Vmax in the decoders in my two 4-6-0s to 88 on one loco, 100 on the other, out of a max of 255. So, the max DC voltage applied provided to the motors by the decoders would be 14 x 88/255 = 4.8V or 14 X 100/255 = 5.5V.

At DCC speed step 70 (out of 128), my 4-6-0s are traveling at 35 smph.... doing a little more math would indicate they are running at 2.6 - 3.0V.

A loco with dual-mode decoder in DC mode often won't start moving til a somewhat higher voltage [my understanding is it required for the decoder to recognize the DC power source, start sounds (not present in the 4-6-0)?], and I don't know what that value might be. Neither do I know how linear the motor/speed response will be as the voltage is increased (it is VERY linear in the range I use, from 0- 3V, or so). But, I wouldn't be surprised if the 4-6-0s ran at 120 -150 smph at full voltage. Not something I am going to try...

Hope that helps a little...

My three Bachmanns, two ten wheelers and a consolidation, are ALL very quiet runners... as quiet as my Kato FEF-3. My noisy loco is my Athearn challenger...

I have two of the 4-6-0s... nice little locos. On the first, I installed a Soundtraxx Tsunami 2 decoder and sugarcube speaker in a Bachmann Spectrum series USRA SHORT tender. If I can fit sound into a USRA short, it should be no problem fitting them into the USRA medium tender that comes with the 4-6-0, especially if you completely strip out the factory decoder/PCB.

The other is currently equipped with the USRA medium tender (with DCC Economi sound) from my Bachmann 2-8-0 (the 2-8-0 got a MP vandy tender with tsunami 2 sound). Eventually, it (the 4-6-0) will either get a MP vandy tender or a USRA short, again also Tsunami 2 sound.

The Soundtraxx Tsunami 1100 is their smallest decoder, and I like it (the most recent Tsunami 2 Steam 2 version) alot... I have used it in all four of my installs. But looking at the pics of the 2-8-0 chassis in Spookshow's review (http://www.spookshow.net/loco/spec280.html), I don't expect that it would fit into the locomotive. But a non-sound decoder might (I know that both Zimo and ESU make nonsounder decoders that might be small enough).

OTOH, fitting the Tsu-1100 into the 2-8-0 tender with a sugar cube speaker should be possible... the tender is relatively roomy, particularly if you remove the factory PCB. I fit a Tsu-1100, 8 x 12 mm sugarcube speaker, and 220 uF capcitor in a Bachmann Spectrum short USRA tender, which is shorter in length and vertical height than the USRA medium that comes with the 2-8-0.

SO, it should be very possible, but it's not a drop in install.

I don't think there are any manufacturers that make a "drop in" decoder for the Bachmann 2-8-0, so I think you will have to do a "hard wire" install. I would suggest that you search the WWW, and look thru posts at railwire, trainboard, and nscale.net for ideas and approaches (don't limit your research to 2-8-0 installations... look at different installs to get an idea of what's possible).

I think the first question to ask yourself is, do you want to control just the motor and lights, or do you want sound? If the former, there might be decoders (by Zimo and  ESU/Loksound) small enough to fit into the loco itself (in place of the removable boiler weight of the early non-DCC 2-8-0s). If you are looking for sound, you will likely be looking at a tender installation (there's plenty of room in the 2-8-0 tender for a sound decoder, speaker, and keep alive capacitor).

Installing a decoder might seem intimidating, but it's really not that hard. I did my first DCC sound installation, hardwired into a Bachmann short USRA tender (coupled to one of my Bachmann 4-6-0s) just a year ago, and have completed 3 more since then. My second install was for a Bachmann 2-8-0 (replacing the decoder in a newer Soundvalue model), but I didn't use the stock tender (I replaced it with a Vanderbilt tender).

Lastly, there are individuals and/or shops that offer DCC installation as a service... so that's another route you could go.

Good luck!