I haven't checked the brushes and springs/holders for a few reasons:

1. I wasn't sure if the motor had brushes.
2. Further dis-assembly may void the warranty.
3. Inexperience may lead to irrevocable harm the locomotive, see #2.
4. Weighing shipping costs of sending the engine back under warranty vs. ordering a motor.

The entire set is packed back in it's original box and my need... desire, for a second locomotive has subsided. I'm focusing more on my layout rather than the number of cars I can pull. So I don't have to have the motor fixed right away and warranty repair/replacement seems the more likely option.

Rich

PS. I got the original locomotive up to 26 cars after adding an ounce to the locomotive. 

Looking more and more like internal motor problems.

Towed the newer F7A with another locomotive from a slightly older (two weeks) Stallion starter set and got the motor to run. After running them tandem for a while I pulled the good engine off the track and there was a huge difference in speed.

I timed both locomotives on my outer 8' x 2.5' oval at the same track voltage and there was 5 seconds difference in lap times. At 18 vdc on the track the good engine would turn a lap in 9 seconds the bad motor took 14 seconds. I know there are variances between locomotives even of the same brand and type, but that seems like a little too much. The problem motor also stopped pulling around 6-7 vdc versus 2-3 for the good one.

Looks like a one way trip to Pennsylvania might be in the future for the new F7A.

Rich

Quote from: brokemoto on April 05, 2016, 08:49:40 AM
The Bs will go onto the A chassis and vice versa.  If you are going to put a B onto an A chassis, you might want to remove the headlight.

I thought about that... remove the LED or cover it, or let it light up the window in the door.

Rich

Or try the parts section of the e-store...

http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_70_81&products_id=369

Rich

The issue: The motor runs but it has to be "kick-started", which cannot be accomplished with the trucks on. Runs at various speeds and voltages until stopped then has to be "kick-started" again.

Background: New N-Scale locomotive from a Stallion starter set. Worked well for about a half hour or so, after that only the headlight worked. There was evidence that it may have had a rough ride on the way to my house. The rear truck cover was loose but snapped back in place easily. I haven't checked the other cars in the set yet. Popped the shell and pulled the trucks, no visible connection issues between wheels and chassis.

Layout and power supply have been illuminated, other locomotives work fine. 

"Bench tested" the chassis... Jumpered the chassis halves to the power supply from the starter set via the rerailer section of track eliminating the trucks as a connection issue. Still no motor response only the headlight worked. Spun the worm gear with power at around 50% and VIOLA! The motor runs.

Once spinning the motor operates normally until stopped, even with a slight load applied to the flywheel or worm gear. Once stopped it won't restart until I spin the worm gear or flywheel again.

Questions: Is this a common problem? Is it repairable: connection between chassis, DC board and/or motor? Is it a motor issue: armature/field windings, replace the motor?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Richard

Are F7A and F7B shells interchangeable also? I have two F7A's I'd like to get a B shell to put on one of them...