After my Phoenix MS18 quit working, I wanted to put a Zimo MX697 in my Bachmann C-19. I couldn't find one and settled for a Soundtraxx 4400. Does this decoder wire similarly to Todzilla's 4408? It's in and runs the engine but the headlight does not come on the firebox flicker only works in reverse. Thanks to Toddzilla for the wiring schematic seen above!

Well, I was able to get my TSU 4400 decoder in the Connie. I was quite happy with my work and being able to do the install. I put the speaker right under the smokestack and all works pretty well. I did not get the smokebox and firepan working but I can go back in and connect these at some point. It might involve unsoldering wires and I think Greg's site explains it pretty well. I have been really happy with the way the Connie runs.

Unfortunately, I was quite disappointed yesterday when I went to run it. I picked it up and put it on the raised loop I made and the front tender trucks were broken. They seem to have just "disintegrated" so to speak. It was very strange. I did read something about using the wrong kind of lube and how this could damage the plastic (also maybe from Greg's site). I do not think I used anything other than large scale products.

Has anyone had this happen? I ordered two new trucks from Bachmann but am worried about a repeat of this. The Connie isn't quite as interesting as my newer locos but it's my baby now that I've taken it apart and put it back together a few times.

Any insight would be much appreciated!
Phil

I have to say, for me, every little bit helps. I learn a lot of new stuff unrelated to my original questions when reading through various posts. What Stan said about leaving the original board in to run the smokebox and firebox flicker was something I was quite unsure about. I had been wondering if I had to hook such stuff up to the decoder, so thank you for that info.

I bought a small speaker from Soundtraxx. It's 28 mm square and 11.2 mm thick. I am thinking of removing my smokebox and trying to fit this speaker under the smokestack. I'll see if it is possible today.

Thanks for the information,
Phil Nymark

Hi Greg,

I have read the "Connie" decoder install on your site a number of times. This is what gave me the confidence to try it with my own Connie. That will be my number one guide for this project. I realize that this project is kind of old news to many but if I can do it successfully, it will be a big deal for me. Replacing the drive gear was a bit intimidating but after I was done, I was quite happy with my own work. I have the wiring diagram on a hard copy and will tack it to the wall of my work area. Then I will take it a step at a time as you suggest on your site. Hope that magic smoke doesn't appear.

I also bought back up gears for the gearbox. I ordered two each of the available gears from Bachmann. Then I bought the another middle gear from NWSL thinking I was getting the one that connects to the worm drive. Finally I bought the one that connects to the worm drive from Jiro Yeramian. Probably overkill but I do like extras parts.

Garden RR is a really great hobby. I very much like having a civil engineering project that, if I mess up, does not have serious consequences. Like many on this site, I am a member of the other G scale sites as well. Some of the posts are over my head and there are so many people like Greg who have advanced education in fields like electrical engineering and other such occupations. Honestly, I'm just not that smart, though I do have some strengths. The hobby is great exercise for my brain.

Well, I am sticking with Bachmann steam and am looking forward to that new Ten Wheeler coming out.

Much appreciated,
Phil Nymark

I've been reading as much as I can about installing a TSU 4400 decoder into my 2-8-0 Connie. I emailed Soundtraxx and they recommended unscrewing and cutting all the wiring from the PCB, taking it out and reconnecting to the decoder. I can figure out track, motor and lights maybe. There are other, soldered wires that I don't know what to do with. I am going to contact them and ask about that problem. If anyone has knowledge about this issue and the best option, I would really like some advice.

Another question I have is about the lights. Soundtraxx said I may need a resistor for the LED's. The Connie is DCC ready so I am wondering if I need to add resistors to the forward/back up lights or are the lights DCC ready? The Connie light is amber like my 3 truck Shay. My C-19 and Climax are white lights. Are these two kinds of lights different?

Finally, can I run wires directly from the track to the track screws on the decoder and run wires directly to the speaker to see if it makes sound?

As always, your knowledge and advice is appreciated,
Phil Nymark

I am actually a member of a few different G scale sites where I can post pictures if needed. I tend to like this site for  Q & A and start here first. Since I figured out the issue, I didn't need to add further inquiries.

Thanks,
Nymark

I was able to replace the drive gear on my Connie. I also pulled the boiler and got into the gearbox to inspect. Those gears were all in good shape so I greased them and reassembled. I finished with one part too many and searched the schematic to find out what it is. It is a small part, less than an inch, with a flat surface that has two recessed holes for screws. Then there is a small perpendicular surface and then another flat surface, smaller than the first. I wish I could post a photo but was hoping someone could ID it, maybe. One question I have is about the motor. I put it back together with Loctite. I noticed the motor is not exactly secure in the boiler. When I change the direction of the loco, the motor shifts slightly in the boiler to the other side of the space it is in. Is this normal? I thought maybe the extra part was some kind of brace but I do not remember there being one when I took it apart. The engine runs well, and is smooth. It seems bigger than my other engines though as if it is a different scale. Looks like I need to get a speaker and a sound decoder for sound and control. Any suggestions about all of the above would be very much appreciated!

Nymark

Edit: The part I described above holds the motor in place I think. I Googled "Bachmann G scale 2-8-0 Images" and the first photo showed the chassis with the part. It stabilizes the motor.
Edit 2: It only took 15-20 minutes to take the boiler off and screw this part in. My Connie runs really great and I plan on getting a speaker and DCC decoder with sound.

Hi Fred,

The information you provided is great news. I will try to contact Mr. Yeramian to see if I can get those three gears for the gearbox. I am wondering about the DCC noise suppression board as I am planning on getting a decoder for this locomotive. To keep it or not... I read it interferes with Crestview (?) devices.

Not sure if my skills will allow me to replace the Connie motor with one from the C-19. Maybe in the future.

Thanks very much for this information Fred!

Nymark

Hi Fred,

I have since run across this same article which I read with a lot of interest. I want to start collecting parts, specifically gears. I have the axle with the metal gear and plan on opening the "Connie" up soon. From my reading, it seems there are a number of things I will want to check. My plan is to open up the gearbox and check all the gears. I also read about removing some kind of electronic at the back of the motor as it is unnecessary (can't remember what it is called). These forums are a great resource. There seems to be a guy who can make these gears named Jiro Yeramian and I am wondering how to contact him. I'll have to go back and go over the posts. All are very recent.There is also a guy on Ebay who is making gears for 4-6-0.s and 4-4-0's. As expensive as these engines are and as much as we love them, it would be very frustrating to not be able to repair a breakdown.

Thank you for this information, I'm going to keep digging for more,
Nymark

Thanks for pointing that out and it makes so much sense. The less powerful engine is less likely to cause drive train problems. I like this engine but am not happy with myself for buying uninformed and not doing my research. The modifications you have on your website will be helpful. This engine is basically new so I'm guessing any typical problems like a loose motor may exist. It will be fun to work on and get running. I imagine I'll learn a lot. Much appreciated Greg.

I want to thank both StanAmes and mickeykelley for the information about "Connie" vs C-19. While I think I got a decent deal on my purchase, I would have rather used the money for a C-19 or maybe one of the new ten wheelers that are coming out. My plan will be to replace the gear for sure and see how it runs. I tend to keep things once purchased but may sell it and use the funds to get something else. It came with a really sturdy shipping box. I think the seller bought it back in the earlier 2,000's (as Stan indicated), ran it and the gear broke. He then boxed it and put it in his garage for many years. It is really new and almost untouched. Thanks to all for the info!

Yet another edit: I spent a bit of time after writing this looking at modifications and DCC installation (much appreciation to Greg E among others). A new question occurred to me. Can I buy a new C-19 motor and use it in my Connie? I don't think it's likely but thought I would ask and see what others think.

I am wondering what the difference is between the C-19 and the "Connie" when it comes to these 2-8-0's. I won an Ebay auction for a 2-8-0 last Saturday and thought all 2-8-0's were C-19's aka "Connies" In other words, I thought they were one and the same. It started to dawn on me that these were two different models.

The one I bought is a "Connie." It's almost brand new but I think it's been sitting in its box for a number of years. The gear is split but it powers up runs. I ordered a new gear from Bachmann and found a few different sites that show how to replace it. I also found an article in Garden Railways that has a step by step pictorial.

The reason I bought it was the box indicated it is DCC ready. Hard wiring a decoder into one of these engines may be beyond my ability. I had seen a photo of a plug and play socket in a tender on a 2-8-0 but I am now thinking that is a C-19 photo. Probably, I'll try to get a decoder for this Connie and keep it. Gotta say, I wish I had understood the difference because I think I might rather have a C-19. And I guess this is my question. Is one better than the other?

Any insight into my C-19 vs. Connie issue would be very much appreciated!

Thanks in advance,
Nymark

Hi Stan,

The URL you sent is the exact document I have around here but can't find! Thank you for that as I was unsuccessful finding it online (I knew it had to be online somewhere but solved my problem without it so quit looking). I run them on my NCE 5 amp smart booster and Pro Cab.

I bought both of my engines on Ebay from a great and well known large scale dealer in Las Vegas. Both came with decoders. They also have sound, engine chuff, bell, whistle and the F functions I listed above. I haven't had any problems with the Climax so it runs and sounds as it came. The Shay also runs and sounds as it came again and I was able to program the long address to the road number," 2147".

Will reprogramming the CV's in the Shay give it more realistic sounds? I'm happy enough with the generic way it came but it might be fun to customize it too.

Thank you for your reply, expertise and the URL,
Nymark

The decoder did come with the Shay. One of my problems is that I misplaced the literature for my Shay in my last few dormant years.  It's around here someplace. The box for the Shay says it's a Tsunami decoder which I think is made by Sound Traxx. It did have the chuff sound when the engine was put in forward and reverse. My Climax is the same and has the chuff sound. I lost the F key noises like cylinder blowdown, dynamo, water stop and coupler. I've been looking at the literature that came with the Climax and it says there is a switch on the circuit board that allows for two chuffs or four. That's interesting. I wasn't going to mess with it today but you have my interest piqued. I'm going to try to figure some of this out.

Thank you for your expertise!
Nymark

Edit: I put my Shay on the rollers. The status was the same, forward/reverse, engine noise all worked but no chuff. Horn, whistle and headlight all worked but no hiss, water, dynamo etc (F functions). I reprogrammed CV 8 to a value of 8 and pulled the plug. When I powered it up again, there was engine sound but no control at all like in my first post in this thread. So, I reassigned the short address to 003 and tried again. Everything worked, even the chuff! I then reassigned the long address to the road number, "2147" and it is all good. Glad to have my chuff back. Now, I have to figure out why my cab light doesn't work but that's for a new thread.

Thank you Greg,

I re soldered the connections to the chuff switch in the cylinder assembly. Still no chuff but I think I just need to reprogram the sound correctly now as I seemed to change some things with my previous efforts. I learned I need to shut the power off after trying to set it to factory settings. Since it's running pretty well, I'm hesitant to do anything but probably can't help myself.

Your input is much appreciated,
Nymark