Does anyone use an Arduino, or similar microcontroller, to automate your layout?

I have been learning the capabilities of the Arduino Uno, and it seems that with appropriate sensors and control
interfaces you could do a lot to automate both engine control and turnouts.

I never did like to re-invent the wheel, so I would love to hear what others are doing.

Thanks,

Dave Smith

I stopped by the Bachmann booth (naturally) on Saturday, and the DD40AX looks pretty cool.  DCC onboard, with a MSRP of only $110 is pretty amazing.

The Spectrum GE 44 ton with DCC onboard also looked pretty good to me.

I wish I had remembered a camera.

I am also tryingto figure out how to work a couple of the open excursion cars into a layout....

Generally a lot of nice new stuff coming out.

Dave_W6DPS

Quote from: pdlethbridge on June 02, 2008, 07:27:38 PM
The denver public library has many railroad pictures taken by otto perry....

This is truely a great resource!  I did a search just using the keyword "train" fom 1949 to 1960 and it came up with 247 pages of photos!

Thanks!

Dave

Thanks for the information!  I'm sure I'll be back, but this is a good starting place.

I spent some of my "wonder years" in Kingman Arizona, playing on #3759 (4-8-4 Northern).  I'm sketching out the changes to make my Bachmann 3780 look more like 3759.

Quote from: Dr EMD on June 02, 2008, 09:09:26 PMI joined the Santa Fe Modeler and Technical Society for that reason...

I googled them, but didn't get anything useful.  Do you have contact information?

Thanks again,

Dave

Is there a convenient data source online for what kinds of cars were used in a particular era?

I am interested in modeling ATSF in the 1950s, and would like to find a reference for what kinds of cars would be appropriate. I am mostly interested in freight, but may want some passenger cars also.

I don't think the covered hopper in the "Iron Duke" set, with the "Propylene Co-Polymer" markings, really matches up well with the 0-6-0 switcher, for example.  Oh, yes--I prefer N guage, but my question is really about the prototype cars.

Thanks,

Dave

Here is one I saw on a different forum:

http://www.all-model-railroading.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=7291

No runways, but an airplane storage area.  I used to live in Kingman, and was searching for info on ATSF 3759, which I will be modeling shortly.

Dave_W6DPS

I tried, but there doesn't seem to be a link in that link...

Dave_W6DPS

I have a 4-8-4 Northern, from the Empire Builder set.  I have one EZ Track turnout that it has an issue with.  It won't back around the curved position of the turnout.

The locomotive wheels are in gauge, and I can't see anything wrong with the turnout.

With the turnout going straight it does fine, both forward and reverse.

With the turnout selected to the turn, it will go over forward in both directions, but consistently derails the leading and/or forward truck when backing around it to the curve.

None of my other rolling stock has any problems with this turnout, in either direction.

Any "tuning" on the turnout or locomotive that anyone can suggest?

Thanks!

Dave_W6DPS

Four packages of 6 sections, for a total of 24 sections for 360 degrees.

Dave_W6DPS

You might also do a search at your local public library.

Our library in Riverside County, CA, has an online search for books at all the various (20+) locations and allows you to request any regular items to be transferred to your local branch.  I like to read from a variety of sources, but not buy them all.

I would recommend this book as great place to start:
The complete Atlas wiring book : all scales (from Z to No. 1).

The Dewey decimal system ID for model railroads is 625.19.

Good luck!

Dave_W6DPS

I would prefer a few more choices  ATSF, although I like steam better.  In fact, I'd be happy with a couple of more road numbers in the existing ATSF steam locomotives.

I could go for a 5000 class 2-10-4, a 4000 class 2-8-2, and a 3640 4-6-4, please!

Dave_W6DPS

N-gage E-Z Track comes in 11-3/4" (44801) and 19" (44804) radii.

I've never seen  flex track from Bachmann.

Dave_W6DPS

Thanks for the replies!

My local Home Depot stocks a blue foam in 4'x8' and 2'x8' sheets in 1/2 inch thickness, which is what I plan to use most of.  I know better than to use the white "bead" stuff.

I am thinking of an outer lip made with a 1x2 centered on the plywood to both stiffen the bench and prevent launching.  I'm currently looking at a 4'x8' layout, with access from all sides.

I am mostly interested in steam from 1920s to 1950s. My grandfather retired as a conductor for the Alton Southern, and I spent some wonder years in Kingman Arizona--playing on ATSF 3759 in "Locomotive Park".

I am planning to start with the "Empire Builder" set, for the Northern 4-8-4.  Of course, it will morph into the 3759 from the 3781 in due time.  I have been comparing photos and marking up the differences--just have to see how the model actually looks.

Thanks,
Dave

I am just planning my first N guage layout, and have a few questions. 

I was into HO a few decades ago, and O as a child.

I have been reading books from the library, and lurking on this forum a bit, so I hope to only ask high-quality dumb questions!

I have seen advice against running the track too close to the edge of the benchwork--but how close is too close?  I am planning a folded dogbone (actually twice folded) with a double track mainline around a good part of the perimeter.

I am thinking of the major cuvres being 19 inch radius.  So, 19 inch radius means five inches on each side of 180° curve on a 48 inch wide table.  Should I plan for more clearance from the edges?

I have also thought about having a lip at the edge, to prevent flight of hardware with lousy glide-slopes.  I haven't seen this used much--is there an obvious reason that I am missing?

I am planning on plywood with layers of insulation foam to form three main levels on the layout.  Any suggestions on the preferred type of foam?  Is ahlf-inch under the lowest level enough, or should I plan for 1 inch?  I am planning on layering in half-inch increments to make smoothing the contours a little easier.

Thanks,

Dave