ISSUE #2

Looks like I failed to perform a crucial test. Put 20.6 DCV directly to motor. Will advise.

ISSUE #2

Locomotive does not run when 20.6 DCV applied directly to any set of pickup wheels (left and right sides).

Continuity is present through motor when applied directly to motor.

All locomotive wires seem to be connected.

Looking more and more as a static display.

Wade great web site for TRAIN ENGINEER. Thanks.

My BASIC TRAIN ENGINEER currently works as follows:

PUSH FAST: output of 20.6 DCV
PUSH and HOLD SLOW: no indication on voltmeter, then after a few seconds shows 0 DCV.
PUSH either direction ARROW: polarity changes, shows + or - 20.6 DCV.
PUSH EMERGENCY STOP: shuts off voltage immediately.

ERGO: 20.6 DCV constant sent to track. SLOW seems to have issues.

This I call my issue #1.

Motor turns. Connectivity through motor. Connectivity from wheels to internal wiring. Looks like issue is beyond me. Combined with the TRAIN ENGINEER problem with the SLOW button, looks like I'm done. Can't win them all.

Anybody with ideas?

OK, bottom plate off locomotive. All plastic gears intact. All wires seem fine and connected. Motor not seized. Noticed only front set and rear set of driver wheels (4-6-0) and rear set of pilot wheels draw power from the track. Driver wheels make contact with sides of driver wheels. Will further investigate this. I will clean inside of wheels for better contact.

Front set of drive wheels contain pulse switch for sound. Only makes short contact at 12 and 6 o'clock as the axle revolves. These wires run to tender to operate sound. All sound is controlled with 9 VDC battery. No track power to sound whatsoever. No track contacts on tender. So tender is not needed to operate locomotive. There are only sound wires going to tender. Wiring diagram shows two more wires to tender to operate tender light with track power. Not on mine.

Only have off/on switch behind smoke house door. Seems like no more secret switches.

Going to start fussing around with multi-meter. See what I can find.

This was to be just a simple setup. Hook it up. Run train in circle. Getting complicated.

Found simple on off switch behind smoke box door. Was set to on. Worked switch back and forth several time. Still nothing.

No headlight.

Are the all six driver wheels AND all 4 pilot wheels powered?

Have 2 wire connector connected from tender to locomotive, (9 DC in tender), Found switch to turn on/off tender sounds. Can locomotive run without tender connected?

Will look for LS-off-NMRA switch.

Will run AMP test across driver wheels left and right sides.

All locomotive wheels except rear set of driver wheels show open circuit.

Thanks.

http://personalweb.donet.com/~paulrace/trains/special_offers/power/t_e_basic.htm

Smoother Power at Low Speeds - AristoCraft/Crest Train Engineer systems use something called "pulse width power" that delivers full voltage to the locomotive, even at slow speeds, so the trains run smoother. This also means you don't have to have your train "flying" around the track to keep it running like you do with some toy trains.

How can full power be given to the locomotive, if the voltage to the track has to be lowered to slow down???

Will remove bottom of locomotive to check wires.

TESTS SO FAR:

Disconnected wires from track. Hook up to digital multi-meter. Set on DC. Press FAST button. 20.6 DCV to track connectors. Both direction switches work. (<==  ==>) I see polarity reversed with either switch.

Using BASIC TRAIN-ENGINEER ART-5480.

Press and hold SLOW button. No change in voltage then goes to 0 DCV.

EMERGENCY STOP works. Immediately goes to 0DCV.

With voltmeter attached and reading 20.6 DCV, I connected to one locomotive wheel on each side of train. Scrapped wheels to get good connection. Reading 20.6 DCV, there is no movement of motor.

With any button push the little light comes on.

Will do.

It is my guess that the power supply can supply variable voltage to the track as controlled by the hand held. Instructions say attach power supply to track and push "fast". I assume that the track voltage is 0 until you push fast. Pushing fast does nothing. I used a battery voltage meter for 9v batteries and no change in track voltage.

As you suggested will use "real" voltmeter tomorrow.

Thanks.

P.S. I was just hoping to have a simple loop with constant voltage. (Realize I need controller to set voltage first.)

Long time HO guy who had to put the trains away due to moving. Recently acquired a Bachmann 9670 train set. A 4-6-0 steam engine, Pennsylvania tender and two different passenger cars. Got enough track to make a circle with small straights. Also a Basic Train Engineer ART-5480. I imagine this is an old set. Hooked everything up and doesn't work. No voltage at track and I pressed every button a couple of times.

I just want to set up an overhead track loop in my workshop. Individual train control is not needed.

Any hints on how to trouble shoot the controller. It lights up when plugged in, ansd the handset lights up when any button is pushed.

Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Grumpy Jim