PM is on the way. Thanks!

Before we start, I have already read how the pilot and trailing trucks seem to cause problems. Nevertheless, I don't want to pull my Durango & Silverton with an 0-6-0.

I ordered the pilot and trailing truck, but that's all I got. The pilot truck goes right on with the existing screw.

I can't see clearly on the parts diagram, but it appears I need some more parts in order to mount the trailing truck. Can anyone tell me which parts I need? Will I need to tap for a new screw? What size?

Thanks!

Bach-man: This was bought so long ago there is no way to return it. I wasn't as familiar with the products back then as I am now. This has taught me to never buy used again.

I have one of your current products, and it is a great performer. It was a replacement, and I am very satisfied with it.

Some time a while back I bought a Limited Collector's Edition Norfolk & Western Class J 4-8-4 HO scale locomotive used, #41-0658-A4. It has sat on the shelf for years. A few days ago, I decided to run it at a club meeting on a very large layout. It would not move. The motor would try to start, but no wheels would turn. It appears the drive mechanism was meant to drive only the rear drivers, propelling the other wheels via the drive rods. It will not work.

Instead of the newer drive train that uses a worm gear, this has a square drive motor with a conventional brass gear.

The shell is in very good shape, and has the desired "611" cab number. The chassis is another story entirely. 

Wanting to inspect the loco's lubrication, I disassembled it. I noted that the chassis was made of cheap metal that was so brittle it broke easily. It has now broken so badly there is no way this chassis can be fixed.

I see in the parts listing that there is a newer 4-8-4 Class J listed at http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=66_68_89.

If I use my current shell, what new parts would I need to order to make this loco run? Can anyone help me find a chassis to put this shell on?

Thanks again! With your suggestions, I was able to design a dual-wye layout. I should be able to turn easily.

I hope to use automation of some sort to control the wyes, even though I run DC only. I have used the Atlas control panel to control reverse loops before, but I'll also consult the usual literature.

I'll try to do an upload of the file.

Thanks for the help, Joe! I was kicking around layout ideas, and I want some way to turn trains.

I worked in a building next to the Norfolk Southern wye in Madison, AL. They used it almost daily to turn the train going to the Huntsville International Airport Intermodal Terminal.

What E-Z track sections are needed to construct a typical wye intersection using two standard turnouts (not #4 or #6) and the Bachmann wye? I'm trying to model this in SCARM, but I can't seem to get it all to fit.

James - I do have an electronic micrometer. I'll have to get it from my shop.

Just guessing, I imagine only a few millimeters longer screw could do the job.

This locomotive is new, and I'd hate to disassemble it down to the halves. I haven't had a chance to check with Bachmann directly yet, but I posted here in the meantime to see if a simple remedy was available.

Thanks for the reply!

I was thinking along that line. The thing that concerns me is that excess glue might get between the body and shell, permanently holding them together. I'm trying to do this so that I can still get the screw out and separate the body from the shell in case repairs or maintenance is needed. I fear epoxy is too strong. What would be the best is a sort of soft metallic "putty" that could be put in the hole, put the screw in, let it harden, the back the screw out leaving new threads.

It concerns me that the metal in the hole is so weak it is easily stripped. I always turn screws and nuts a 1/4 to 1/2 turn in reverse to allow the threads to align to avoid cross-threading. I also use small drivers and turn them gently to ensure the threads are engaged before I tighten down.

Thanks for your reply. I also suspect some stripping has occurred, which I now wonder how to correct. I'm thinking that even though it will thread without the shell, the screw can't reach the good threads in the body with the shell on. I have tried positioning the shell as you suggest, but I'll give it another try.

If this fails, what could I do to the body in order to re-tap the threads? Do you have any idea what the size of the screw is? Would a medium strength glue applied to the body hole work, allowing you to still turn it out?

I recently bought the Bachmann N scale "Yard Boss" set with the 0-6-0 AT&SF steam locomotive. I was having some issues with rough operation until I found a message from February 2010 that discussed the same issue. I followed the directions that included inspecting the armature for carbon caking. Sure enough, cleaning the armature did wonders! It now starts smoothly and runs well at slow speeds, both forward and reverse.

Now that I have completed the work, I am having trouble getting the shell to properly attach to the body. The directions had said to remove the single screw in the sand dome to detach the shell. Now I cannot get the shell positioned to let the screw thread into the tapped metal hole. If I take the screw by itself, it will take the threads and tighten. However, it appears the tolerance is so close that when the shell is on, the screw cannot reach the point where it tightens. I have looked carefully to ensure the shell is sitting tightly atop the body. It seems somehow either the screw is a bit too short, has bad threads, or the tapped hole has bad threads.

My essential question is, what will fix this problem?