Quote from: Fxguy1 on February 24, 2015, 09:28:12 PM
Seems everywhere I look they are out of stock, and was hoping someone might know where I could find one.

Thanks!

Tim

1) From the quote above I have performed a google search, hence the "it seems to be out of stock everywhere" comment.

2) As Len points out, I specifically say I cannot find these products at the start of the thread and this is a perfect opportunity to suggest a BACHMANN alternative.

3) There was no intent to make this a "virtual flea market" - more a means to try and reach out to find an item that might be in stock at a local hobby shop that I would otherwise not have known.

4) Also as Len points out, I posted this under the "General Discussion" forum thinking that its a

Quote
General Discussion
Feel free to talk about anything train related in this board. [\quote]

Maybe it should be changed to "General Discussion" Feel free to talk about anything BACHMANN train related in this board.

I find it unfortunate and discouraging that BACHMANN feels that way. As someone completely new to the hobby I naively thought that BACHMANN would openly welcome discussion of the hobby regardless of products involved. If thats truly the case, then I would expect not to find discussions about Woodland Scenics, or Faller, or any other manufacturer's products or techniques here.

As it so happens, the piece is for a layout controlled by a BACHMANN controller, but perhaps that will now change.

So it looks like my post about where to find a track piece was deleted (seems like I've had a few topics deleted, even after there had been replies) anyways, I'm trying to find an Atlas Code 100 #6 Custom Left Hand Turnout to complete my layout. Seems everywhere I look they are out of stock, and was hoping someone might know where I could find one.

Thanks!

Tim

So I read the next chapter entitled Clyde's Cycle Center: Your Introduction to the Art of Kitbashing. The idea behind the chapter is to kit bash two buildings to make a bicycle shop for a triangular piece of real estate near the road. The two kits the book uses are Model Power #488 - The Sullivan's House (easy enough to find) and Tyco #7772 Drugstore (hard to find).

So I'm looking for opinions for alternatives to the drugstore. I'm thinking of HO Klein's Pharmacy Wooden Kit by JL Innovative Design --http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/jli/jli531.htm

Any other corner store suggestions?

Thanks!
Tim

Quote from: Len on February 22, 2015, 11:47:01 PM
Floquil/Poly-S was bought by Testors and phased out. Some of the colors will eventually be phased into their Model Master line, but no time-line has been announced I'm aware of. The 'Mfg#' below are for Walthers. Even if you end up getting things elsewhere, it's a handy place to look over to see what's available.

The good news is, Tru-Color (Mfg#: 709) has virtually the entire line of railroad colors Floquil/Poly-S had, plus a few they didn't.

Alternatives to the Polyterrain and ballast items are available from Woodland Scenics (Mfg#: 785), and Northeastern Scale Lumber is still around (Mfg#: 521). You may be able to substitute the Faller #130171 Quarry Rail & Truck loader for the Gravel Tipple. "Don's Shoe Store" is out of production, but if you really want a shoe store, 'Smalltown USA' makes Vivian's Shoe Store (699-6013). Most of the other buildings are easily substituted with others that are similar in size.

Model Power is out of business, but DPM (Mfg#243) has an assortment of building kits that could substitute for the kits. In fact, they sell wall module packs that let you design your own buildings.

Len

Thanks Len! I was basing some of my information off the Hobbylinc.com website but I do have a copy of Walthers 2015 HO Reference and was able to find some (most) of the northeastern lumber stuff in there. I haven't read the all of the chapters to see how big of an impact not having some things will be, but knowing some alternatives will be helpful. Also helpful knowing some of the acquisitions because lots of times the part #'s stay the same and just the manufacturer changes.

Tim

I'm trying to complete the layout from the book HO Railroad From Start to Finish and it seems that some of the products are no longer being made. I've got a list of all the products used in the book and was wondering if anyone could help me out with suggesting either somewhere (besides eBay) to find the particular product, or a suitable alternative that could be used in it's place.

Some of the things (like the Floquil and Poly S Paints) aren't that critical to the layout while others (like the Faller Gravel Tipple and Overhead cranes ) are. Anyways, here is a quick list:

Critical:
Manufacturer                    Part ID       Description
Activa                              999   Rigid-Wrap (3 Rolls)
Alexander Scale Models    2705   Chimney
Alloy Forms                    2013   corrugated fence kit
Columbia Valley                      187   Gas Pumps
Faller                              164   overhead cranes (2)
Faller                              193   Gravel tipple
Magnuson Models              537   "Practice Kit" store
Model Power                       455   Burlington Mills Factory (2)
Wm. K. Walthers            3000   Don's Shoe Store

NON-CRITICAL
Manufacturer          Part Number         Description
Northeastern                      181   1/16"x5/64" stripwood, 24" long (2)
Northeastern                    3004   HO 1 X 6s
Northeastern               3012   HO 2 X 4s
Northeastern               3040   HO 6 X 6s
Northeastern                  111   0.02" X 0.04"
Northeastern                  113   0.02" X 1/16"
Northeastern                  115   0.02" X 3/32"
Northeastern                  117   0.02" X 5/32" (3)
Northeastern                  157   0.04" X 2"
Northeastern                  180   1/16" square (2)
Northeastern                  231   1/8" square (1)
Northeastern                  378   1/16" square clapboard siding (1)
Floquil Paint                 130009   Primer Spray, 1 Can
Floquil Paint                 110132   SP Lark Dark Grey
Floquil Paint                 110009   Primer
Floquil Paint                 110011   Reefer White
Floquil Paint                 110013   Grimy Black
Floquil Paint                 110087   Depot Buff
Floquil Paint                 120085   Antique White
Floquil Paint                 110081   Earth
Highball ballast                       10   Dirt
Highball ballast                      124   Cinders (N scale)
Highball ballast                      171   Light Brown Earth (fine)
Polly S Paint                 500014   Grimy Black
Polly S Paint                 410030   Reefer Orange
Polly S Paint                 410070   Roof Brown
Polly S Paint                     500082   Concrete
Polly S Paint                 500011   White
Polly S Paint                 500060   Khaki
Polly S Paint                50030-8   Brown
Polly S Paint                 501997   Stainless Steel
Polly S Paint                              Antique White
Polly S Paint                 410073   Rust
Polly S Paint                              Dullcote
Polly S Paint                 500030   Blue
Polly S Paint                 500051   Grass Green
Polly S Paint                 500305   Battleship Grey
Polly S Paint                 500820   Earth
Polly S Paint                 410011   Reefer White
Polly S Paint                 410012   Reefer Grey
Polly S Paint                 410020   Caboose Red
Polly S Paint                 410031   Reefer Yellow
Polly S Paint                 500103   Brown
Polly S Paint                 501990   Bright Silver
Polyterrain                               146   water gel
Polyterrain                               303   matte medium
Polyterrain                               833   black acrylic paint
Polyterrain                              7007   Mud


Thanks ahead of time for color suggestions and alternatives / locations to find some of this!

Tim

I called Bachmann's support line and was told that this was a known issue and to try it on a different circuit, one without fluorescent lighting on it. I already have no fluorescent lighting in the basement and was told to try on a circuit all it's own due to something called "dirty" electricity?

Needless to say I'm disappointed with the Dynamis. As Hareeiharan said, how can I test the loco is wired correctly for DCC with the TSC decoder if this is the only DCC controller I have available to me?

It runs fine with the TSC decoder installed but using the DC Power pack I was originally using. I've tried a factory reset and using two different LED receivers on the pro box.

I'm not exactly getting a solid green light, more a flashing green light on the box. Signal meter on the handheld is completely blank.

To which #4 are you referring to? There are multiple #4s, but they are all side lines and none of them are intended to connect back to the curve according to the track plan in the book that I'm following.

Ken,
    The section splits off into an industry, a cement works in this case. Thanks everyone for the comments. I'm following the book, HO Railroad Start to Finish .

Just thought I would share a couple pics of my layout in progress..

So can someone please at least point me in the right direction? My Bachmann Dynamis system doesn't seem to work. As mentioned, the green LED flashes and the orange flashes intermittently. Isnt the green supposed to be solid? I'm trying to determine if it is the controller or the command box that is the problem. The controller shows no signal at all. So does the controller signal display the strength of the signal received from the controller box?

My TCS T1 Decoder arrived today and I installed it into my Walthers Trainline GP9 according to the pictures on the site and the wiring diagram. I hooked up my Dynamis EZ Command and nothing. The handset signal meter shows nothing and the left hand LED on the Command Station is solid green and the right hand intermittently flashes orange. I disconnected the Dynamis and hooked my old non-dcc power pack up and the loco works fine, so I don't believe its the decoder or the installation.

Anything I can try to troubleshoot? Not sure if the Command Station isn't working or if the controller may not be working properly.

Thanks for the help!

After much advice on here I decided to use adhesive caulk instead of the pins.

Len thanks for the idea. Never thought to split the difference since I'm going to have to cut track anyway to fit the joint. I've already used the hinges on each side to lock the modules together but there is still quite a bit of "flex" over the joint. I'll try and snap some pics tonight if I get a chance. It seems each end of the table in the 8 ft direction can flex upward about a 1/4". I haven't actually drilled through the two pieces of wood yet to lock them together, just the hinges on each side.

Ok, so I got 2 - 4'x4' pieces of 1/2" ABX Plywood for the track subsurface. Replace half of it tonight and have the other half ready to go. So I know Len mentioned not having a track joint and cork joint directly above each other, but I want the layout to be able breakdown into two sections for storage.

So how do I do the joints in the track and cork to be able to come apart? I know with the layout already that the existing joint does not fall directly above the joint in the bench.